Help needed for slab insulation

[Polebarnguy]

Hello all,

Just found this forum and it is a great source of knowledge. I’ve searched here and elsewhere for solutions to my problem without success so I decided to post. I’m in the process of pouring a new slab in a 42 x 60 pole barn with radiant floor heat. The problem I have is slab insulation by the two 12’ wide sliding doors. I have 2” of foam insulation on the ground and around the perimeter of the slab until I get to the two sliding doors. How is the slab edge(which faces out the doors) insulated? Or does this edge of the slab go uninsulated?

Thanks in advance for you help.

 

[Kobuck]

I used a piece of Wedi 1/2” board vertically under the center of the doors with the top at finish grade. At least there is now some isolation

 

[ConCretin]

I'd suggest forming the slab edge so it falls under the future location of the door you intend to use. Then place a pitched concrete apron that extends out a foot or two.

You can isolate the slab from the apron with 1/2" expansion material, which can be caulked or a piece of 2" insulation that would require a sill plate of some kind.

This method requires a bit more work but prevents several inches of heated concrete from being exposed to the weather and provides a nice transition when driving into the building.

You might find my Guide to Floor Slabs in the link below helpful as you do your slab. Good luck.

 

[yeldogt]

Agree with LL -- that's how I do it. The door comes down on the apron and protects the slab edge that's exposed. I normally do about 1.5" ... a 2x.

keeps stuff (water and dirt) from blowing in

 

[Polebarnguy]

Thank you all for the quick responses. I’ll share your thoughts with my concrete company.

 

[tfinniii]

Maybe put the thermal break an inch or two outside,may help to prevent freezing of door to pad.

 

[Polebarnguy]

Maybe put the thermal break an inch or two outside,may help to prevent freezing of door to pad.

Thanks for the input.

 

[Pntyrmvr]

As counter intuitive as it seems the radiant system should be plumbed to deliver the hottest water to the area of greatest heat loss first.

Check your radiant plan for that routing. It should head for the door openings first.

The thermal breaks are a good idea and can land right under the door. The door will bridge the heat to stop freezing the door to the slab.

Remember that the door seal only needs to see a temperature just over freezing to remain frost free.


“Talk is cheap. Whiskey costs money.”

 

[haugy]

I'd suggest forming the slab edge so it falls under the future location of the door you intend to use. Then place a pitched concrete apron that extends out a foot or two.

You can isolate the slab from the apron with 1/2" expansion material, which can be caulked or a piece of 2" insulation that would require a sill plate of some kind.

This method requires a bit more work but prevents several inches of heated concrete from being exposed to the weather and provides a nice transition when driving into the building.

You might find my Guide to Floor Slabs in the link below helpful as you do your slab. Good luck.

To make sure I'm reading this right. Create the break from slab to apron right under the door? Which then covers the break when the door is closed. And then put in your insulation or expansion material there, right?