Help needed to remove casters from Snap On Epiq tololbox

[FriscoMustang]

Hey folks, need some advice. I have a SO Epiq 68” double bay toolbox. Very heavy even when drawers out. I want to remove the casters and set it all the way down on the floor. I’ve read some great feedback on here to make sure I put it up on some kind of isolators, or at least a rubber mat to prevent rust. I’m in TX so not a lot of worry about condensation and it’s up on a 3” step up in the garage already. My question is how to I lift it to set it down flush to the floor? I ultimately want it up against the back wall in the corner, so I’ve got some small issues reaching the very back corner. Open to ideas or advice from folks that have done this with their boxes. I’m confident I’m just overthinking but can’t get it figured out. Thanks.

 

[Dissident]

Have you thought about using those felt furniture sliders? I've had to move vending machines before and we just had 2 or 3 guys tilt it off a pallet jack and slide it into place. Weighs about the same as the toolbox, but taller of course.

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[FriscoMustang]

Have you thought about using those felt furniture sliders? I've had to move vending machines before and we just had 2 or 3 guys tilt it off a pallet jack and slide it into place. Weighs about the same as the toolbox, but taller of course.

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Hadn’t thought of that since it’s on concrete but I’ll see if that could work. Thanks for the response.


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[rsanter]

Personally I would not put it directly on the floor, but that's just me.

If I wanted to do what you have described then I would use floor jacks to lift the box and put it on blocks/cribbing.
I would remove the casters.
Then I would get some rectangular steel tubing. Either (4) 2x2 tubes or (2) 2x6 tubes.
In one side of the tube I would drill with the needed hole spacing to bolt to the bottom of the box where the casters were. On the other side I would drill larger holes that allowed access with a socket.
Bolt those skids to the bottom of the box and then lower the box to the ground.
You should then be able to either slide that box across the floor metal to concrete, or use the mentioned furniture slides.
If you have a pallet jack you can use that

 

[KenC]

Have you thought about using those felt furniture sliders? I've had to move vending machines before and we just had 2 or 3 guys tilt it off a pallet jack and slide it into place. Weighs about the same as the toolbox, but taller of course.

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Good idea, but they make a slick plastic version that may work better on concrete. And, the plastic could keep it off the concrete and serve as a moisture barrier.

 

[Stuart in MN]

To lift it and then sit it back down on the floor, there's a tool called a toe jack. It's basically a regular old hydraulic bottle jack, with an extra piece added to allow it to reach underneath a low slung object. Any number of manufacturers sell them, or you may be able to borrow or rent one, or if you have welding tools you could make one. They look like this (this is just a random picture off the Internet.)

 

[FriscoMustang]

Personally I would not put it directly on the floor, but that's just me.

If I wanted to do what you have described then I would use floor jacks to lift the box and put it on blocks/cribbing.
I would remove the casters.
Then I would get some rectangular steel tubing. Either (4) 2x2 tubes or (2) 2x6 tubes.
In one side of the tube I would drill with the needed hole spacing to bolt to the bottom of the box where the casters were. On the other side I would drill larger holes that allowed access with a socket.
Bolt those skids to the bottom of the box and then lower the box to the ground.
You should then be able to either slide that box across the floor metal to concrete, or use the mentioned furniture slides.
If you have a pallet jack you can use that

Good stuff, thanks. The tube with accessible bolt holes is a great idea.


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[FriscoMustang]

Good idea, but they make a slick plastic version that may work better on concrete. And, the plastic could keep it off the concrete and serve as a moisture barrier.

So I have to assume that those would need to be temporary. I can’t see those furniture movers holding up under that box fully loaded, right?


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[FriscoMustang]

To lift it and then sit it back down on the floor, there's a tool called a toe jack. It's basically a regular old hydraulic bottle jack, with an extra piece added to allow it to reach underneath a low slung object. Any number of manufacturers sell them, or you may be able to borrow or rent one, or if you have welding tools you could make one. They look like this (this is just a random picture off the Internet.)

That’s what I’ve been looking for. And I do have some amateur welding ability. Very helpful, thanks.


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[mhejl]

There's only a pinch weld all around. I used some scrap 3" square wood that rest where the casters bolt up since that is designed to be load-bearing. I left the bottom of the box about 3" off the floor to be able to clean and for a workable top height (KRL1022).

In your case, I'd cut the blocks long enough to at least get the floor jack under the bottom. I wouldn't set it directly on the floor (I'm in TX close to you, too).

 

[csp]

Pull the drawers out with their contents. The cabinet can easily be handled by one person manually at that point.

 

[KenC]

So I have to assume that those would need to be temporary. I can’t see those furniture movers holding up under that box fully loaded, right?


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I think the hard plastic ones would be fine permanently. I've used them under showcases in our old store. They weighed 3-400 lbs empty + a few hundred pound of contents. They just need a solid point to rest on, they wouldn't work if not solidly supported in the top side.

 

[jonshonda]

I would suggest some sort of barrier between the concrete and tool box. And also if you removed a few drawers you could likely move it by yourself.

 

[Dragfluid]

I guess I have to ask: Why remove the casters?
You'll curse yourself when you want to make a change in the future.

 

[50pascals]

Pull the drawers out with their contents. The cabinet can easily be handled by one person manually at that point.

Yes, this.

 

[Hop2it]

I would use hockey pucks,I used them under my air compressor I drilled a hole big enough for the bolt heads then drilled a hole the size of the bolt shank it will keep it off the floor it’s cheap and easy
Doug

 

[FriscoMustang]

I think the hard plastic ones would be fine permanently. I've used them under showcases in our old store. They weighed 3-400 lbs empty + a few hundred pound of contents. They just need a solid point to rest on, they wouldn't work if not solidly supported in the top side.

Thanks. Cheap enough to give them a try.


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[FriscoMustang]

I guess I have to ask: Why remove the casters?
You'll curse yourself when you want to make a change in the future.

Figure I can always put them back on. The best place for the box is up on a raised step at the back of the garage. It’s about 3”, plus 9” of caster, plus a 40” box height. Even at 6’4”, that makes the top unusable space. It’s got the rhino liner power top, so an ideal workbench at 43” for me.


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[FriscoMustang]

Pull the drawers out with their contents. The cabinet can easily be handled by one person manually at that point.

Not this one. I pulled the drawers to get it up on the raised step and that was rough. It’s over to 600 lbs empty, taking out the drawers still leaves 400 lbs or so. Sure, levers and cribbing will help but I don’t want to damage it. Got some good ideas here. May try to tackle it this weekend.


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[FriscoMustang]

I would use hockey pucks,I used them under my air compressor I drilled a hole big enough for the bolt heads then drilled a hole the size of the bolt shank it will keep it off the floor it’s cheap and easy
Doug

Another good idea. Thanks.


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