Help needed, Walker 2 ton jack

[rgfllamas]

Greetings all,
I'm new to the forum but after reading many of the posts and searching the archives I can see it's been me that has been missing out. You guys are great.
Years ago I acquired a Walker 2 ton air/hydraulic jack, model 93666 series A, I think it's from the early 1980's. Physically it looked good but wouldn't lift a load. It would jack up with out a load either manually or with the air. It got stashed in a corner of the workshop and pretty much forgotten. Recently I was rotating tires on my F250, using a cheapy compact jack and got thinking about replacing it with something a little beefier. That's when I remembered the Walker. I took it up to a local hydraulic repair shop and dropped it off. Three weeks later I went back and he said he had the hydraulic kit in but was waiting for a kit for the air motor. Another three weeks and I stopped in again. Both kits are in but he tells me the jack is dead. Worn out. Now I'm no expert and I'm not about to argue with him but I find it very hard to believe. Seems to me that the parts that wear would be the replaceable seals. I left the jack with him as he wanted to pull the new seals out to use in the future on another project and I have now picked up the non-working jack once again.
I know there are some resident guru's on the forum here that may be able to steer me in the right direction. I have a "parts sheet" that I printed off the internet and feel confident I can break this thing down. Are there any critical dimensions available that I can check to determine if it is truly worn out? What do I need to check before I invest in kits myself? I would hate to spend the money on kits only to find it truly is worn out. Are there any sources for hard parts if in fact something is worn out? Are there rebuilding services available that know what they're doing when it comes to these older jacks?
Thanks in advance
Ken

 

[Hiball]

I can gurantee you he didnt have a clue to what he was doing, That jack isnt that old and and your statement regarding the parts that wear out are the soft parts is absolutely True. Of course there are sitsuation where things are missused etc that could cause problems, But they are few and far between. I have over 20 years experience in the Hydraulic jack field, I know Walker jacks like back of my hand. Lets go over a few things, Does the jack leak at any spots? Pumps? Around the Tank nut (Main Ram)? Does it work properly manually with no load? By that i mean does it come up quick like its suppost to? In regards to the Air Motor assembly, the only reason it would need a New head is IF... It had the old style that used Plastic Vee's that where molded into it, Once they break/Wear its done. If it had the Newer oring style you would simply just have to replace them. Where are you located?

 

[rgfllamas]

Hiball,
Thanks for the quick reply.
I think I'm stuck, as for leaking. I think it did leak around the main ram and if the rebuilder pulled his new seals out I'm sure it will now. It did lift with no load, but if I remember correctly it was a lot of manual pumping. Not quick by any stretch of the imagination. Not sure about the air motor and plastic, were the vee's internal? I don't think there's any plastic showing externally anywhere on this jack. Would a serial number help?
I'm in South Florida

 

[Hiball]

Hiball,
Thanks for the quick reply.
I think I'm stuck, as for leaking. I think it did leak around the main ram and if the rebuilder pulled his new seals out I'm sure it will now. It did lift with no load, but if I remember correctly it was a lot of manual pumping. Not quick by any stretch of the imagination. Not sure about the air motor and plastic, were the vee's internal? I don't think there's any plastic showing externally anywhere on this jack. Would a serial number help?
I'm in South Florida

Well lets work on one section at a time, Lets get the manual aspect working before we look into the air. The first thing that comes to mind to tell me this guy was lost is this, You cant properly install the leather vee's on the pump and remove them for later use and expect to get any use out of them. The next thing that i see happen alot on these older walker is someone attempts to take the tank nut off (spanner type) and they cant figure out how to get it off or they damage it. I would definitely turn your jack over and where the ram comes out verify if your rebuilder attempted to remove the tank nut. It should have some marks, missing paint etc.. Here are the few things that would keep your jack from working under load, Vee Packing in the pump is worn enough where it wont pick up oil or push it, Main ram cup is worn/broke, Overload is improperly adjusted, Valve system is improperly set up/missing pieces from someone who didnt know what they was doing and last but not least those jacks have a "Over-extend" bar that trips a ball off the seat at the end of the ram that prevents damage. Its rare but i have seen issues with that area. Now from what you told me that it was leaking from the Ram area, Im gonna guess that the Main cup is deteriorated and that is the problem. I would even venture to say that there is a good chance that your hydraulic rebuilder failed to get inside the jack and just assumed it was in the Air motor and then made up the ficticious tale that "Its worn out". I cant tell you how many times ive heard the same story from a customer only to find out that the "shop" couldnt even get in the Jack to attempt to fix it. Those jacks are not hard to work on, but those Spanner Tank nuts are a ***** to get into without the proper tools and i would defiitely check yours to make sure its not damaged etc...

 

[rgfllamas]

OK, flipped it over and yes the nut has definetely been abused. Looks like old work though. The outer circumference is chewed up like a pipe wrench attacked it and the notches are sheared from trying to loosen it. Looks like it has silicone under it as well. Damaged, yes. The marks are dirty and look old, not like it was just done. I took a drift and I'm able to loosen the nut so it's not "locked down" right now.
Did try to pump it and get nothing at all, but I would be surprised if there was any fluid at all in it.
Pulled the serial number while I was there, don't know if it's of any value but:
D 666 I11223

Thanks for your help

 

[Hiball]

OK, flipped it over and yes the nut has definetely been abused. Looks like old work though. The outer circumference is chewed up like a pipe wrench attacked it and the notches are sheared from trying to loosen it. Looks like it has silicone under it as well. Damaged, yes. The marks are dirty and look old, not like it was just done. I took a drift and I'm able to loosen the nut so it's not "locked down" right now.
Did try to pump it and get nothing at all, but I would be surprised if there was any fluid at all in it.
Pulled the serial number while I was there, don't know if it's of any value but:
D 666 I11223

Thanks for your help

I hate it when im right.. If it was me i would remove the hydraulic unit from the frame and go from there. I hate seeing chewed up Tank nuts, I can tell you that the replacement Hex nuts will work on the older units and last i checked they was around $40 bucks. You might be able to get the old Tank nut tightened to where it wont leak but you are dependant on the condition of where the tank nut meets the resevoir. I also dont recomend using a punch on those spanner notches as ive seen them split right down the middle. I hope your Hydraulic shop didnt charge you for his "worn out" claim..

 

[rgfllamas]

So what do you recommend? Pull the hydraulic unit and put a kit in? I now know I can get the nut off. I'm assuming that will be the first step in disassembly and the last in reassembly. Try to get the nut I have tight if not replace it. I won't know til the end of rebuild. What's the source for a replacement if I need it?

 

[Hiball]

So what do you recommend? Pull the hydraulic unit and put a kit in? I now know I can get the nut off. I'm assuming that will be the first step in disassembly and the last in reassembly. Try to get the nut I have tight if not replace it. I won't know til the end of rebuild. What's the source for a replacement if I need it?

I would recomend pulling the unit out of the frame, It only takes removing the 4 bolts (2 each side) and undoing the Air inlet where it connects to the hydraulic unit. After you get the hydraulic Unit outside of the Frame you can then remove that Tank nut and pull the Ram and check the condition of the Ucup and condition of the cylinder. I can supply you with Rebuild kits and any hard parts you need if it comes to that.

 

[rgfllamas]

Looks like I have a project for this evening.

Will update with my findings

Thanks for your help,
Ken

 

[Hiball]

Looks like I have a project for this evening.

Will update with my findings

Thanks for your help,
Ken

When you pull the ram out, Remember there will be a Cross pin that actually goes thru the ram. Its not a problem if that pin comes out but inside the ram there is a tiny itty bitty pin that run the same length of the Ram and if it comes out its gone forever.. LOL I normally pull the cross pin out to verify that the little pin is inside still then reinstall the pin and run some tape around the pin to keep inside.

 

[rgfllamas]

I wanted to finish the story for any that might have similar needs.

I sent the hydraulic unit to "Hiball". There were pieces missing internally and I just didn't know where to begin. He rebuilt the hydraulic and sent me a kit for the air motor which I rebuilt. Once re-assembled everything works as it should. Nothing beyond repair, just beyond the capabilities of my local "expert". Sweet.

 

[mrholeshot]

Thats great!!! You go HiBall!!

 

[Hiball]

I apreciate the Feedback.. Im glad I could get you back going again.

PS.. Dont take anything back to your Local shop. lOl