Ok so about 2 weeks ago my father convinced me that oil based garage floor paint is the best. So after some searching I figured why not. I applied the paint and was pretty happy with it. Yesterday i noticed that the floor had spots that was picked up from out tires. Now this got me pretty upset because i completed the whole garage. The marks arnt to large and i touched them up. I felt the floor and in some spots i can leave a finger nail impression. What is going on? Is the floor not cured yet? I stayed off the floor for a soild week. Also if i buy epoxy clear coat will this help at all? Im at a loss please help
Help!!! Oil-based garage paint failing
- Thread starter nickj718
- Start date
Edger
Well-known member
Putting epoxy on top will make it worse.
Oil based paints are quite soft and take a long time to harden compared to epoxy. The best success I know of is where the surface was acid etched, the paint applied at 10% thinned so it soaked in more and then a topcoat.
You have only one option, grind it off and use a stronger coating.
Oil based paints are quite soft and take a long time to harden compared to epoxy. The best success I know of is where the surface was acid etched, the paint applied at 10% thinned so it soaked in more and then a topcoat.
You have only one option, grind it off and use a stronger coating.
KPSquared
Well-known member
Step one - read the million threads on garage journal on how floor paint *****
Step two - read the million threads on garage journal on how awesome properly applied, good quality epoxy flooring is.
Step 3 - NEVER LISTEN TO YOUR FATHER IN LAW AGAIN.
Best I can tell, your only option is to grind the **** off, and bust out some epoxy.
Step two - read the million threads on garage journal on how awesome properly applied, good quality epoxy flooring is.
Step 3 - NEVER LISTEN TO YOUR FATHER IN LAW AGAIN.
Best I can tell, your only option is to grind the **** off, and bust out some epoxy.
KPSquared
Well-known member
Dammit, can't edit my thread. Just noticed you said Father, not FIL. . .you better tell pops to get himself re-educated on flooring products before he gives out anymore **** advice.
KPSquared
Well-known member
TIle is a great option as well.
trbomax
Well-known member
I sorta like bare concrete.I havent had any problems at all with mine.
If you tile, you still have to grind (or burn) that stuff off. In your shoes, I'd look into Racedeck.
KPSquared
Well-known member
Awesome. . .grey! Now your floor can look like. . .concrete!
The tile might be your best option, but like Jack said, you still have to remove the paint first.
The tile might be your best option, but like Jack said, you still have to remove the paint first.
KPSquared
Well-known member
Go through Jacks thread, find the video of him beating the tile with a little sledge hammer. . .you will be sold.
Ok I am here. You can relax now. lol. Scrape that ******** off. It will keep failing. Oil based in a garage, is no good. Every time you wipe with a solvent, or do any sort of cleanup, you will essentially wipe that floor up.
I usually say, tile over paint, tile won't jump up, but in your case, your paint wants to jump up. Paint stripper and a scraper are now your friend. Scrape it down to see some concrete, to get something to help your tile stick. Do an area, so that you can test your tile adhesion. Scrape some off, set a tile or two, let it set, and then try to remove it. If it pops off with no issues, you need to get rid of more paint. If you break the tile before it comes off, you are good.
See links in my sig as to how strong tile is, and how ****** my floor was. I tiled over a painted floor, well half of it was painted. But my paint was dry for a decade or two.
I usually say, tile over paint, tile won't jump up, but in your case, your paint wants to jump up. Paint stripper and a scraper are now your friend. Scrape it down to see some concrete, to get something to help your tile stick. Do an area, so that you can test your tile adhesion. Scrape some off, set a tile or two, let it set, and then try to remove it. If it pops off with no issues, you need to get rid of more paint. If you break the tile before it comes off, you are good.
See links in my sig as to how strong tile is, and how ****** my floor was. I tiled over a painted floor, well half of it was painted. But my paint was dry for a decade or two.
nickj718, there are a few tile installers on here who can give you the official line on how to do it. My own experience was a mixture of seat-of-the-pants learning and fairly good luck. But like slickgt1, I tiled over everything. As he says, the thinset needs to have something to hold onto, so at least some of that paint has to go.
I have normal ceramic (PEI 4) tiles and normal (dark brown, so no stain) grout. I'm almost at the five-year mark with it. I drop lots of tools, roll engines on top of jack stands, move heavy, heavy stuff over the tiles. No problems at all.
I have normal ceramic (PEI 4) tiles and normal (dark brown, so no stain) grout. I'm almost at the five-year mark with it. I drop lots of tools, roll engines on top of jack stands, move heavy, heavy stuff over the tiles. No problems at all.
Neither have I, and my car weighs about 3 times what Jacks Porsche weighs. I never put anything under my jack or jack stands either.
Jack Olsen, Great garage job! I'm following your example to DIY ceramic tile my 17 x 19 garage and I'm hoping you tiled over everything, including something like my slab. I have some oil stains that won't budge after trying several commercial cleaners, power washing. Just wondering if I'll be wasting my time if I tile over it?
pauls_workshop
Well-known member
Yes Jack, but you don't have the pretty flecks like us guys that did epoxy do!
Actually, if he has to grind off the floor to get rid of most of the paint, he could epoxy then if he wanted to, just like tile. Either can be a good option if done well, but tile is tougher as we all know (if done well).
- Paul
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LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Pauls:
They should make these tiles in industrial colors.
They should make these tiles in industrial colors.
pauls_workshop
Well-known member
Actually, they do come in Beige or Gray already! Several shades of each in fact, but flakes, nope. I think you should come up with an epoxy floor line that will simulate grout lines. Then (no pun intended) you could "gray" the line between tile and epoxy more distintinctly.
- Paul