Help on Carport/Garage issue

[Colville]

Hey guys, im new on this forum and from the HAMB forum, I was told I may get some help here... heres my dilemma. Im purchasing this home that has a detached garage in the back yard. Its only 15' deep and my car is at least 17'. That being said I was looking into my options of what to do for my car. The best thing and cheapest thing I came up with was the metal car ports. I was going to put one right in front of the garage you see in the pics below. Im in the military so I will have to re sale this house at some point so I would want to do something that would not deter from the resale but also not be really expensive being I wont be in the house forever due to military moving me.

I had an estimate done for extending a car port built off the garage with no sides just a roof and lights and what not and that would be $3500... little high for me. I can get the metal type car port actually installed for under $1000 with no sides, and a black roof to match the shingles. This would probably be put right up on the garage covering my car as you see it pictured below. I could get the sides enclosed for under $2K but I may wanna wash the car and what not under it so I thought sides may be an over kill.

Just seeing what yalls input would be or if yall have any pics of your own carports in front of a garage and how it looks. Thanks.

 

[daward]

This is my first post, but what the hell...

Couldn't you pull the existing garage door assembly to reuse on an added 3' extension to the face of the garage to gain the necessary length? Pitch a small roof off the current siding and shingle to match? I would think it could be done for under $1,000 and it would match the style of the garage/home. The concrete looks like it goes from driveway into the current structure.

I recently looked at a property that was over 100 years old, the original carriage house had something similar added in the mid-60's to give the necessary length to house a vehicle.

That car is far too gorgeous to sit under a carport when you could have an enclosed garage around it.

 

[omr]

This is my first post, but what the hell...

Couldn't you pull the existing garage door assembly to reuse on an added 3' extension to the face of the garage to gain the necessary length? Pitch a small roof off the current siding and shingle to match? I would think it could be done for under $1,000 and it would match the style of the garage/home. The concrete looks like it goes from driveway into the current structure.

I recently looked at a property that was over 100 years old, the original carriage house had something similar added in the mid-60's to give the necessary length to house a vehicle.

That car is far too gorgeous to sit under a carport when you could have an enclosed garage around it.

exactly what i was thinking

 

[Stuart in MN]

Couldn't you pull the existing garage door assembly to reuse on an added 3' extension to the face of the garage to gain the necessary length? Pitch a small roof off the current siding and shingle to match? I would think it could be done for under $1,000 and it would match the style of the garage/home. The concrete looks like it goes from driveway into the current structure.

I recently looked at a property that was over 100 years old, the original carriage house had something similar added in the mid-60's to give the necessary length to house a vehicle.

I live in an older part of town, and a lot of old garages around here have a similar bumpout that was added at some point to accommodate bigger cars. You could maybe do something similar at the front end of the garage as well, something like a bay window except without windows, so the car could pull in further.

 

[Colville]

This is my first post, but what the hell...

Couldn't you pull the existing garage door assembly to reuse on an added 3' extension to the face of the garage to gain the necessary length? Pitch a small roof off the current siding and shingle to match? I would think it could be done for under $1,000 and it would match the style of the garage/home. The concrete looks like it goes from driveway into the current structure.

I recently looked at a property that was over 100 years old, the original carriage house had something similar added in the mid-60's to give the necessary length to house a vehicle.

That car is far too gorgeous to sit under a carport when you could have an enclosed garage around it.

Thanks for the compliment on my olds! Thats what I was thinking, but the same guy that gave me the quote for doing the add on car port that would be built off the garage to match he said that would be $3500 and to actually add on and move the facing of the garage out would be even more because you would have to take down all the siding and re do it. Hes the only contractor i've gotten to quote it though. Like I said, I would spend alot to do a nice garage but I may only be in the house 2 years being im in the military, so i'd rather stay on the cheaper side side so I dont loose alot of money. I was thinking, I can get a metal car port, plain jane no sides for $595 installed. At least then with it in front of the garage i'd have the convenience of doing maintenance on the car with it right in front of the garage. Also I drive this car on a daily basis so it would be an easy pull in and out. Anyone have pics of these metal car ports in front of garages?

 

[cyamaha2007]

Every cheap carport we have had colapsed in high wind or snow. They really stink thats way to nice of a car to put under a chinsey tin roofed carport.

 

[Colville]

Every cheap carport we have had colapsed in high wind or snow. They really stink thats way to nice of a car to put under a chinsey tin roofed carport.

dang, well thats a bit of a worry. Were they anchored correctly? Theres the heavy duty anchors and more quality higher gauge steel I was going to pay for. Thats part of the options that come with these car ports. But I may just get some more quotes from other contractors.

 

[bczygan]

Hi,
I'm the architectural designer. First things first. Check your zoning classification. Read your zoning regulations (Probably online), for your classification. Look especially at setbacks and accessory building rules. Check your site plan for utility easements and call utility companies if necessary. Don't forget underground and overhead utilities, electric power, phone, cable, gas, water and sewer. Check for deed restrictions and homeowner association rules (If any). Now you know what you CAN do. A simple bump out of a part of the rear wall of the garage would be the cheapest structural change. Imagine a wall that starts at the top, just under the existing roof overhang and slopes out as it goes down to the ground. It isn't as wide as the existing garage so no changes to the existing garage side walls. The bump out is thus slightly narrower than the existing garage. It will require a beam to span the opening. Beam size depends if the roof has a ridge beam with a point load, or ridge board. Here is a method to use or you can simply extend the existing roof and wall lines on the back (If restrictions allow) or on the front (And relocate the garage door). Note that if you have a ridge beam you have to put a beam across at the existing garage door location to carry the load to the walls or put a new longer ridge beam under the existing one.

If you can't expand out the back because of setbacks, how about a really good car cover and park the car in as far as you can?

 

[rburke65]

Really liking your car! Is that a...? '53? I have a '65 Impala, but those '53 or so Chevy, Olds......sure get my blood pumping.

 

[cyamaha2007]

we anchored them to a existing concrete pad for a old garage. we used it for firewood storage so nothing to critical. We used the expanding anchors through the feet to the pad. They were your typical side of the interstate shed dealer quality.

 

[DirtyEd]

Hey man,I followed you over from the HAMB.My dads neighbor attached one of the 695 metal carports to his building and later enclosed it himself with metal from homedepot.He said he has less than a grand in it.I personally am going with a metal building at my new house.I cant drive a nail to save my life,but if anything happens to a metal building I can weld that sucker up.Good luck with your building and A big THANK YOU for your service.Eddy

 

[Colville]

Hey man,I followed you over from the HAMB.My dads neighbor attached one of the 695 metal carports to his building and later enclosed it himself with metal from homedepot.He said he has less than a grand in it.I personally am going with a metal building at my new house.I cant drive a nail to save my life,but if anything happens to a metal building I can weld that sucker up.Good luck with your building and A big THANK YOU for your service.Eddy

Thanks man... Thats where I think im leaning towards. Im a sheet metal air framer by trade so I as well work better with metal

Really liking your car! Is that a...? '53? I have a '65 Impala, but those '53 or so Chevy, Olds......sure get my blood pumping.

Yeah, its a '53 super 88 original motor and trans and I drive it every day Thanks man!

Hi,
I'm the architectural designer. First things first. Check your zoning classification. Read your zoning regulations (Probably online), for your classification. Look especially at setbacks and accessory building rules. Check your site plan for utility easements and call utility companies if necessary. Don't forget underground and overhead utilities, electric power, phone, cable, gas, water and sewer. Check for deed restrictions and homeowner association rules (If any). Now you know what you CAN do. A simple bump out of a part of the rear wall of the garage would be the cheapest structural change. Imagine a wall that starts at the top, just under the existing roof overhang and slopes out as it goes down to the ground. It isn't as wide as the existing garage so no changes to the existing garage side walls. The bump out is thus slightly narrower than the existing garage. It will require a beam to span the opening. Beam size depends if the roof has a ridge beam with a point load, or ridge board. Here is a method to use or you can simply extend the existing roof and wall lines on the back (If restrictions allow) or on the front (And relocate the garage door). Note that if you have a ridge beam you have to put a beam across at the existing garage door location to carry the load to the walls or put a new longer ridge beam under the existing one.

If you can't expand out the back because of setbacks, how about a really good car cover and park the car in as far as you can?

Great info man, thanks so much! Almost speaking a foreign language to me haha... Un fortunately I cant do anything with the back of the garage because it stops right at my neighbors yard. Also really wouldnt want to cover it and leave the car sticking out. But great info man, thank you!

 

[cowboy73]

I don't think extending the garage out the front would be a big deal. The siding is vinyl right? You could probably get more to match it fairly easily. It is probably sold locally. They sell a tool to unlock vinyl siding. You could take off the siding on the long sides of the garage and cut up the pieces that were facing the house to fill in on the extension alternating the short and long pieces. Then buy some new siding to cover the side that faces the house. You could reuse the siding and the corners from the garage door end. Move the garage door back to the new opening. Shouldn't cost a whole lot to do if you did it yourself, I expect less than 1K. It looks like the bottom plate on the walls is just bolted to the top of the slab. The shingles on the roof look fairly new also. Should be easy to match and weave the new ones into the old ones. You could even recycle the garage door header and reuse it on the end of the extension for the new opening.

 

[Jack Olsen]

That's a beautiful car.

 

[bczygan]

I don't think extending the garage out the front would be a big deal. The siding is vinyl right? You could probably get more to match it fairly easily. It is probably sold locally. They sell a tool to unlock vinyl siding. You could take off the siding on the long sides of the garage and cut up the pieces that were facing the house to fill in on the extension alternating the short and long pieces. Then buy some new siding to cover the side that faces the house. You could reuse the siding and the corners from the garage door end. Move the garage door back to the new opening. Shouldn't cost a whole lot to do if you did it yourself, I expect less than 1K. It looks like the bottom plate on the walls is just bolted to the top of the slab. The shingles on the roof look fairly new also. Should be easy to match and weave the new ones into the old ones. You could even recycle the garage door header and reuse it on the end of the extension for the new opening.

All the above is true. A couple of things to think about. Check how close your garage can be to the house without fire separation construction. Check what footings are required for the extension. You will need to sawcut the slab and dig and pour them. Key them into the existing footings with steel dowels set in epoxy. There may be a difference in slab elevation between the existing garage and the driveway. You want to have drainage out of the garage, not into it. Cutting, removing and re-pouring the drive slab adds cost. And finally, if you add to the front and reuse the garage door and header, fine, but as mentioned before, check if the garage is trusses or joists and rafters. If joists and rafters, check to see of ridge board or ridge beam. Probably ridge board and you can add on to it. If ridge beam, you need to support the now unsupported end that was supported by the door header that moved. Does the OP have photos of the inside of the garage showing the roof framing and end wall above the door?

 

[Colville]

That's a beautiful car.

Thanks, your garage and toys are amazing!