Help! Polycuramine clear coat gone bad

[FLAMINIUS]

Hello Everyone-

So happy to find this forum. I was hoping for support and validation of a fix that will need to take place to my newly applied Rustoleum Rocksolid Metallic Polycuramine garage floor. Here is the full story:

1) I was busy and decided for once in my life to go with a contractor (rather than doing myself) to apply 400 Sq/ft of Rustoleum Rocksolid Metallic Polycuramine garage flooring. The main application of the product went down smoothly without any issues. This was applied on 11/01/18 @ 5:00pm

2) The following day on 11/02/18 @ 8:00am the contractor applied the polycuramine clear coat WITH 1/2 the anti-slip additive. They applied the clear incredibly un-even with saturated high spots and dry low spots. Please see the picture.

3) The product has now cured and unfortunately set



I was hoping if any of you can validate this fix for me. Will this regain the luster and glossy finish we had prior to the clear coat application. Anything I should be cautious of:

1) Using a 175 rpm floor buffer, I will use a 80 grit pad and try to even out the clear coat, removing the saturation and as much of the first coat and Anti-slip additive as possible to regain a smooth even base.

2) Vacuum an residual dust from the sanding

3) Wipe surface with acetone

4) Re-apply Rocksolid ploycuramine clear coat

Thanks in advance everyone!

 

[FLAMINIUS]

This is the photo of the project cured.

 

[Shea]

From the image you provided it looks like the coating is contaminated with something or the roller fell apart. What type of roller did they use? Also, it's important to keep mixing the clear during application to keep the anti-slip suspended or it will settle to the bottom of the pan. The roller will grab clumps of anti-slip if it settles and distribute it in clumps. That may be what is showing up as contamination in the photo.

Something else to be aware of is that the application of the anti-slip additive will tone down the gloss on such a coating.

The method you describe for removing the clear is good. You may need to take it all the way down to the color coat. Also, use denatured alcohol instead of acetone to wipe down the floor afterwards. It will do a better job of cleaning up the residue and it's not as toxic as acetone.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Shea may be correct here, this looks like roller fuzz on top of some not great workmanship.

Note: inexpensive latex type roller pads can fall apart with many high quality coatings. We've seen this many times, hence why we include rollers in our kits. Always use a high quality roller that is designed for oils base paints or lacquers as they hold up much better.

Application tip...before using a new roller wrap it in blue masking tape and remove. The light adhesive pulls off any stray fibers.

 

[Jaguar Fan]

Try using the "touch and go" method of rolling the clear coat. Think of a private pilot of a small aircraft practicing landing & taking off, where the plane never comes to a stop. The roller should never be set down on the floor; it should have forward velocity when it touches the floor, rolls forward, and takes off again. The roller should never come to a stop on the floor. Ideally, you would do a 3x3 section (maybe 4x4) north-south, then go over that same 3x3 section (maybe 4x4) east-west. Only when you've done it in both directions do you then move on to the next section. Have great light so you can tell what you've done and what you haven't done. Put blue tape on the walls every 3 feet so you can guage where you are on the floor.

 

[FLAMINIUS]

From the image you provided it looks like the coating is contaminated with something or the roller fell apart. What type of roller did they use? Also, it's important to keep mixing the clear during application to keep the anti-slip suspended or it will settle to the bottom of the pan. The roller will grab clumps of anti-slip if it settles and distribute it in clumps. That may be what is showing up as contamination in the photo.

Something else to be aware of is that the application of the anti-slip additive will tone down the gloss on such a coating.

The method you describe for removing the clear is good. You may need to take it all the way down to the color coat. Also, use denatured alcohol instead of acetone to wipe down the floor afterwards. It will do a better job of cleaning up the residue and it's not as toxic as acetone.

Thanks so much for your input. Theys used a regular nap roller, and yes those are fibers. I will be using a high quality foam roller on the next application. I saw them apply the clear and the high low spots are definitely due to the anti-skid settling. They did not continue mixing. They simply poured into a paint tray and went to town.

 

[FLAMINIUS]

Try using the "touch and go" method of rolling the clear coat. Think of a private pilot of a small aircraft practicing landing & taking off, where the plane never comes to a stop. The roller should never be set down on the floor; it should have forward velocity when it touches the floor, rolls forward, and takes off again. The roller should never come to a stop on the floor. Ideally, you would do a 3x3 section (maybe 4x4) north-south, then go over that same 3x3 section (maybe 4x4) east-west. Only when you've done it in both directions do you then move on to the next section. Have great light so you can tell what you've done and what you haven't done. Put blue tape on the walls every 3 feet so you can guage where you are on the floor.

Awesome technique, I will try to execute.

 

[FLAMINIUS]

Shea may be correct here, this looks like roller fuzz on top of some not great workmanship.

Note: inexpensive latex type roller pads can fall apart with many high quality coatings. We've seen this many times, hence why we include rollers in our kits. Always use a high quality roller that is designed for oils base paints or lacquers as they hold up much better.

Application tip...before using a new roller wrap it in blue masking tape and remove. The light adhesive pulls off any stray fibers.

Fantastic! You guys have a ton of great knowledge. Love this place.

 

[FLAMINIUS]

Shea may be correct here, this looks like roller fuzz on top of some not great workmanship.

Note: inexpensive latex type roller pads can fall apart with many high quality coatings. We've seen this many times, hence why we include rollers in our kits. Always use a high quality roller that is designed for oils base paints or lacquers as they hold up much better.

Application tip...before using a new roller wrap it in blue masking tape and remove. The light adhesive pulls off any stray fibers.

Is there a better clear coat I can purchase from you with roller that will work will my current Rocksolid Metallic base? Will the clear refresh the luster and color after sanding?