To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Help raising WT power head?

GraniteDragon

Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2023
Messages
9
I feel like an absolute idiot for not being able to figure this one out on my own. I've used a lot of PB blaster, wd40 and 3in1 on the base of the column where the power head is currently sitting. All the lubricants have run down the column so i know they are getting through. I have loosened the handle on the left side and the bolt on the right. I'm guessing that the collar underneath is just so it doesn't go down any further, but i feel like i could be wrong. Still i cannot get this to move. Any help/ideas would be greatly appreciated!
 

Attachments

  • Walker Turner Handle.jpg
    Walker Turner Handle.jpg
    342 KB · Views: 28
  • Press Bolt.jpg
    Press Bolt.jpg
    421.2 KB · Views: 27
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Firebrick43

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
14,117
Location
West central Indiana
its the one of the left side/first picture. Remove the handle completely and underneath is split cotters. The outside one stick a punch in and wiggle all around and pull it out. the other side might need a larger punch to knock it loose. be careful with the threaded one.

Put something under the head like a block of wood as it will fall when the split cotters come loose
 
OP
G

GraniteDragon

Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2023
Messages
9
Pivot the table out of the way, and use a bottle jack for steady pressure? Sometimes the lock cylinders can "freeze" to the column.
Thank you, i dont have a bottle jack but i do have a car jack that i can rig up? Think that might work? Or i'll get a bottle jack tomorrow and try!
 
OP
G

GraniteDragon

Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2023
Messages
9
its the one of the left side/first picture. Remove the handle completely and underneath is split cotters. The outside one stick a punch in and wiggle all around and pull it out. the other side might need a larger punch to knock it loose. be careful with the threaded one.

Put something under the head like a block of wood as it will fall when the split cotters come loose
Gonna try this one tonight! Thanks for both of the warnings. Will it still fall with the lock collar underneath the head?
 

Firebrick43

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
14,117
Location
West central Indiana
Gonna try this one tonight! Thanks for both of the warnings. Will it still fall with the lock collar underneath the head?
No it will not. I missed the lock collar part, never seen one on a normal DP, they are usually on production table presses to repeat head height. I would move it down a 1/4” or so to allow the head to drop a little once the split cotters are free

836462.jpg

This is what split cotters look like. The left one in this pic is threaded and the one on the right is unthreaded and slip fit. The scollop cut out of the cotters is the portion that engages and locks to the column.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Cruzan80

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 22, 2015
Messages
4,258
Location
Denver, CO
Any jack could work, bottle jacks are just smaller/more compact. I wouldn't really crank on it, more a pump or two above touching. Just sometimes it will finally give with pressure attached.

I agree to see if you can get the cylinders removed. If they solve the problem, great. If not, then they can't get damaged by pushing.
 

larry_g

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2007
Messages
16,888
Location
oregon
On the split cotter, loosen the handle a couple of turns and then with a soft mallet give it a wack or two to drive the threaded piece out a bit to make sure it is free. You could also remove the handle and replace it with a bolt so that you can get a straight wack on it.

lg
no neat sig line
 
OP
G

GraniteDragon

Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2023
Messages
9
No it will not. I missed the lock collar part, never seen one on a normal DP, they are usually on production table presses to repeat head height. I would move it down a 1/4” or so to allow the head to drop a little once the split cotters are free

836462.jpg

This is what split cotters look like. The left one in this pic is threaded and the one on the right is unthreaded and slip fit. The scollop cut out of the cotters is the portion that engages and locks to the column.
Yeah it has a metal tag on it "Daybrook-Ottawa 12321" so I'm guessing it was at their factory and had one job, that wasn't just putting holes in the work surface haha
 

Attachments

  • Daybrook-Ottawa.jpg
    Daybrook-Ottawa.jpg
    125.8 KB · Views: 12
OP
G

GraniteDragon

Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2023
Messages
9
On the split cotter, loosen the handle a couple of turns and then with a soft mallet give it a wack or two to drive the threaded piece out a bit to make sure it is free. You could also remove the handle and replace it with a bolt so that you can get a straight wack on it.

lg
no neat sig line
Thank you Larryg, I didnt have any bolts that fit but i did have a punch that fit past the threads and was able to easily knock it out.
 
OP
G

GraniteDragon

Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2023
Messages
9
Any jack could work, bottle jacks are just smaller/more compact. I wouldn't really crank on it, more a pump or two above touching. Just sometimes it will finally give with pressure attached.

I agree to see if you can get the cylinders removed. If they solve the problem, great. If not, then they can't get damaged by pushing.
Had to borrow my dad's but it worked!
 

FrankLee

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 13, 2010
Messages
3,613
Location
seMI, 48317
I've always only seen lock cylinders with flat bevels and never seen any like those that were curved on purpose.

The bevels on zamac lock cylinders would often deform to the curve of the column from over tightening and cause sticking like you experienced.

The cylinder on the left side looks like it extends out out rather far... like the bevel is not against the column. If that's the case, there is likely an indentation(s) from the cylinder on the column.

Do those look home made?
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom