HELP! Reddy heater not working!

[nxstang]

Hey folks, gotta problem here.

Have a 60,000BTU Reddy Heater here thats not working. It had this problem last winter and I didnt fool with it. Needing it this winter.

I have attached a video to what it does. I poured out the old kerosene and put in some fresh stuff I just went and got. Changed the fuel filter as well after dumping it all. It still does it.

Basically what it's doing is kicking on for a few seconds and makes a "humming" sound then kicks off. a local repair shop is willing to fix it but I have to pay 30 dollars regardless if they fix it or not....kinda garbage.

so what could be wrong here? If you listen to the video, make sure you turn it up, my phone didnt record the sound too loudly. Thanks!

 

[charlie_nj]

How many times did you attempt to start it? Each winter mine takes about a dozen or so cycles of this to finally kick on. When I first turn it on after it sits all summer, the air pump will run for a few seconds and then it shuts off. I unplug it, wait a few seconds for it to reset, and attempt to start it again, again it shuts off. This continues for maybe 10 or 12 cycles till it finally kicks on. I believe what is happening is that a photoelectric cell shuts the air pump off if it doesnt see a flame after so many seconds. Once the fuel gets properly atomized so it will actually ignite, the photo cell lets the fuel continue to flow. This could probably be prevented by cleaning out all the old fuel before storing for the summer, but I never do. It does literally take 10 or 12 cycles before it starts, so if you haven't tried it this many times, I suggest trying this.

 

[nxstang]

This is the same thing it did last winter to me....it was running and kicked off. It wouldn't restart and i emptied the diesel, sloshed it with kerosene and tried it then...nothing.

this time I tried it 3-4 times and nothing.

 

[charlie_nj]

This is the same thing it did last winter to me....it was running and kicked off. It wouldn't restart and i emptied the diesel, sloshed it with kerosene and tried it then...nothing.

this time I tried it 3-4 times and nothing.

Took 12 tries to start mine. I'd try it 12 more times and see if it kicks on. Unplug it after each try so it resets itself.

 

[nxstang]

OK, I tried it 15 times nothing.
Took the fuel line off and cleaned it with carb cleaner. nothing.

So I took the top half of the casing off (with the handle) and tried seeing what it was doing. When i plug it in I can see the little "igniter" glow red hot and it looks like fuel sprays out......fan kicks on. But nothing, no heater.

Any ideas?

 

[HIOSILVER]

check the eye that reads there is a flame..next check the rubber hose that runs up to the fan make sure it is not cracked this is how it draws its fuel ...

 

[nxstang]

check the eye that reads there is a flame..next check the rubber hose that runs up to the fan make sure it is not cracked this is how it draws its fuel ...

How do I check this eye?

I took the fuel hose off and sprayed it out...looked to be shooting fuel too, just no flame.

 

[nxstang]

 

[HIOSILVER]

you will see a back item that points toward the flame two wires just clean it with soft tissue paper

 

[nxstang]

you will see a back item that points toward the flame two wires just clean it with soft tissue paper

is it round and (looking from the back) to the bottom left? so i take it off and clean it with some toilet paper or tissue paper?

also, should the "igniter" itself be directly in front of where the fuel sprays? or should it be pointing inwards but kinda to the side?

look at the last video i posted...iy has it apart and shows exactly what it is doing.

 

[charlie_nj]

Maybe try bypassing the photoelectric eye with a jumper wire.

 

[nxstang]

ok lemme go out there and try that.

 

[nxstang]

ok, unhoked the 2 blue wires going to the little circuit board and made a small jumper to jump those 2 ports together. STILL nothing.

 

[scottm]

When mine did that the fuel jet was partly clogged. I took it out and looked through it and thought it was ok since I could see light through it, but after I blew some compressed air through the hole it was about 3 times bigger. They are really sensitive to air/fuel ratio so it can look like its getting both fuel and spark and still not work.

It's not the best web page to try to find stuff, but I found some useful troubleshooting tips at reddyparts.com. Here are a couple to get started - Older spark plug style and newer glowplug thingy style.

 

[catmech]

Does yours have a spark plug that ignites the fuel? If so check the wire and maybe change the plug. I had one on my service truck that used the plug, Iwould buy a tune up kit for it every year, change the plug and filter. There is also vanes in the pump, I could not hear your video very well but that may be your noise issue. I had also bought a pump kit for mine, water in the fuel will freeze the pump, and do not remember it being very much money. I could not see your model number but if you post it that may help narrow down the possibilities. One other question is are you sure that fuel is being drawn out of the tank?

 

[55 FORDMAN]

fuel pump it run off the back of fan

 

[55 FORDMAN]

rotor kits i think what it called

 

[HIOSILVER]

one thing i found out they will not run with the top cover off

 

[nxstang]

When mine did that the fuel jet was partly clogged. I took it out and looked through it and thought it was ok since I could see light through it, but after I blew some compressed air through the hole it was about 3 times bigger. They are really sensitive to air/fuel ratio so it can look like its getting both fuel and spark and still not work.

It's not the best web page to try to find stuff, but I found some useful troubleshooting tips at reddyparts.com. Here are a couple to get started - Older spark plug style and newer glowplug thingy style.

Its the prong-style igniter piece. Ill take the fuel jet out and take some carb cleaner to it.

Does yours have a spark plug that ignites the fuel? If so check the wire and maybe change the plug. I had one on my service truck that used the plug, Iwould buy a tune up kit for it every year, change the plug and filter. There is also vanes in the pump, I could not hear your video very well but that may be your noise issue. I had also bought a pump kit for mine, water in the fuel will freeze the pump, and do not remember it being very much money. I could not see your model number but if you post it that may help narrow down the possibilities. One other question is are you sure that fuel is being drawn out of the tank?

Im not 100% sure of the model number....its a 60,000 BTU Reddy Heater. non-thermostat model. where is this pump at exactly? what are the "vanes" exactly?



thanks to the rest...Ill look into that "rotor kit" thingy.

 

[nxstang]

Now it needs an ignitor....this one broke while pulling it out for inspection....they offer a 70k btu heater for 169.95....i think its used-refurbished.

they charge $30 for labor no matter what they do + parts. They told me ignitors are around 50 bucks. Then whatever parts it will take to fix the current problem.

would it be best to A) trash this one and buy the 169.95 one? B) get this one fixed no matter the cost (unless its like $175+)? C) find a cheapo used one of like craigslist for 100 bucks or so?

Thanks.

 

[GerryL]

I had a problem with a Reddy heater a few years ago. I bought one at a local hardware shop in the middle of an 18" snowstorm. I had fuelled up my skid steer in the fall, and left my fuel tank cap off. This was 2 months later, needless to say I had quite a bit of water in the fuel system. The bowl and filters were solid ice, along with ice in the tank. I battled it on and off for a month, but this was the first day I found out I had a problem. I knew I needed to heat it up before things started breaking, so I tarped over the machine well and bought a Reddy Heater at a premium price. Got home, set it up and it wouldn't run. By now the stores had closed and there was a lot of snow coming down. It actually fired once for a short time, then stopped. I dismantled the heater until I found the problem; the pump wasn't turning due to a tolerance problem in the vane/impeller area. I think with all the bolts snugged it would bind, loosening them allowed it to run. If I recall I maybe cleaned it up with some 600 grit emery, looking for a burr. After that it has run well. I won't buy another Reddy Heater though, due to their lack of response. I had emailed them a detailed letter explaining my problem, looking for something; maybe a partial refund or a discount on a future purchase, sympathy at least. I got a reply that said they couldn't do anything about it if I didn't give them more info, referring to an inspector #. I had all my paperwork and receipts, so I emailed them the info. I never heard from them again. I understand manufacturing, I worked in it for 22 years. Stuff happens, and quality control is supposed to help minimize what gets out in the field for problems, but when you have a problem, by gosh, support the customer! Do what it takes to make them happy. Shoot, I would've been happy if someone called and said "Gee I'm really sorry you expeerienced that problem with our product.". Hmmm, I feel better after posting. It actually was a pretty stressful time when this was going on, my loader had died in the middle of the driveway. No way to move it except under it's own power. So that was my experience with a Reddy Heater that wasn't. Good luck with yours!

 

[byrd]

things i would check in order:
when you plug it in and it "hums" does the fan rotate? if so does the ignitor fire? remove the top cover and look at the fuel nozzle while running, should be an even cone shaped spray pattern. if no spark remove the ignition lead and hold it close to the end of the ignitor, check for spark there, you should be able to slowly pull it farther away fron the ignitor up to about an inch(use insulated pliers) cause if it bites you it stings, if not the ignition module is going bad. if you have a weak fuel spray remove the back plastic cover on the motor and there are filters inside, then remove the six bolts that hold the inside of the filter housing to the motor. inside is your pump, should be a round carbon rotor and four pump vanes. make sure that there is no damage and also check the plastic coupler that the rotor attaches to the motor armature. if everything looks good re-install the pump and filter housing. like in the previous post check the fuel hose and the hose running from the pump to the fuel nozzle for cracks. you need a pressure gauge that is in 1psi. increments and install it in the port on the back of the pump housing that does not have a hole in it. run the heater and check the pressure, it should be around 5psi but the pressure setting should be listed on the side of the heater. to adjust the pressure turn the plug with the hole in it until the pressure setting is correct. as long as everything checks out the problem is usually solved. depending on the model heater there are photocells(flame sensors), high temo sensors, and thermostats that could hinder the function of the heater. these are just some basic troubleshooting steps for forced air kerosene heaters. there are more technical steps to resolve different issues so let me know what you find and i can help.

 

[nxstang]

OK, i have videos posted above....pleasel ook at those.

On the issues....I pulled the cover off and the fan kicks on. the injector shoots fuel. i bypassed the photocell and it didnt change anything. The fork-looking piece (ignitor?) came on and glowed red while the fan was going and it shot fuel. I bought a new fuel filter for it, nothing. checked the fuel line and cleaned it, nothing.

The videos may or may not help but they arep osted several posts up. thanks.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

OK, i have videos posted above....pleasel ook at those.

On the issues....I pulled the cover off and the fan kicks on. the injector shoots fuel. i bypassed the photocell and it didnt change anything. The fork-looking piece (ignitor?) came on and glowed red while the fan was going and it shot fuel. I bought a new fuel filter for it, nothing. checked the fuel line and cleaned it, nothing.

The videos may or may not help but they arep osted several posts up. thanks.

I think you should have a continuous blue spark sizzling between the two probes of the ignitor.

Edit: sorry, some of the heaters have a HSI ignition that uses a "glowbar" and this sounds like what you have.

http://www.reddyparts.com/

Left side of the page, under the red arrow, is all the trouble shooting help and tips.

Charles

 

[byrd]

watched both vids, by the sound of the heater you need to check the carbon pump rotor and vanes the pump is loud. also check the pump pressure, it may spray fuel but with the incorrect pressure your fuel will not ignite.

 

[nxstang]

My wifes father told me he knows how to fix these heaters and told me i need a ignitor (obviously) and possibly a board. Anyone else think its that? thanks.

 

[onlyn8v]

Hey i know this is old but Did you ever find out what happened with yours? Mine is doing the same thing

 

[long240project]

Hey i know this is old but Did you ever find out what happened with yours? Mine is doing the same thing

Onlyn8v I am Unfortunately very familar with this problem in fact i am dealing with it today. I would like to help if you are interested. I can help you trouble shoot the heater. reply @ [email protected]

 

[onlyn8v]

Well, an update. I cleaned the eye. Didnt help. I can see the glowplug does light up. It looks like the fan will spin but not when power is applied to it. SO I kicked the fan, the next time i pluged it in it fired. Then I unplugged it and put the cover back on and it wouldnt work.

Not really sure what would make the fan stop spinning but the money they want for replacement fans is a little high

 

[onlyn8v]

Well an update to the update. I kicked it again and its fine.

Im guessing it had buildup in the motor brushes.

 

[MR.Gunk]

I am going to lend some (I hope) helpful advice.
After struggling with my 60k BTU heater for some time, here is what I have found:
1: It is a good Idea to buy a low pressure gauge and attach it permanently to the port on the left in the back. a 0-15 psi is fine. It is a great tool, even if the device is working, so you can monitor the health of the filters, etc.. EVERYTHING on this device relies on the pressure hovering around 3 psi. (Pressures vary dependent on model, you can google that.) If you can not keep a consistent pressure, the unit will not work correctly PERIOD.
2: Make sure you have clean fuel, whether it is Kero, Diesel, or JetA.
3: The seal (cork) on the back end MUST be in good shape (and be there.) Use some Vaseline on the cork to help make a good seal.
4: When all else fails (or if you or someone else has opened the Vein pump to clean it) VERIFY that it has been assembled correctly.
5: To clean the parts of the pump take extreme caution. Do not use and cleaners, just use a dry shop-type paper towel to wipe the parts off. Handle the parts gently, they are fragile, and can break easily.
6: Upon re-assembly of the pump MAKE SURE THE FINS ARE PLACED IN THE CORRECT ORIENTATION. You CAN install them 90 degrees out without the pump jamming up, and it will go back together, but the pressure will either fluctuate very rapidly, or not build pressure at all. When you put the fins back in, they will sit flush with the rotor, there will be no gap between the fins and the back plate. If there is a gap, rotate the fin 90 degrees, and check again. CHECK EVERY FIN. If one is worn, or does not slide properly when rotated, it will not work.
7:Verify the nozzle is clean.
8: The filters are cheap, replace them.
I can not stress enough that a pressure gauge will likely be your beacon in the dark here.... You can tell (if you know your heater well enough) how it should sound, and if it doesn't sound right, get a gauge. If it flutters fast, you probably need a rotor re-build kit. If you can't build pressure, there is something loose, or worn (like the cork gasket.) Check all connections. If you have the correct pressure, you get a good spray, and the HSI (Hot surface ignitor) glows, you may need a new photo eye. If you don't get a glow, get a new HSI.

Hope that helps.

 

[hpw]

2: Make sure you have clean fuel, whether it is Kero, Diesel, or JetA.

Hope that helps.

I remember reading after purchasing my heater that it stated once you start with a particular fuel that you can't change to another. Is there anyway to go from burning kerosene to diesel?
Kerosene is very expensive and would be nice to burn diesel.

 

[Streetbu]

Kero, Diesel, or HHO will all work the same in the unit. Possible slight odor change from on to the other but all WILL fire if your unit is working correctly. To diagnose the issue you really need a 1/8" pressure gauge that reads 0-15psi. There will be a sticker on the unit somewhere that states what the pressure should be. Usually somewhere around 3-5.3 psi depending on the btu rating. The plastic screw to the right of where you temporarily install the gauge is your adjustment. Clockwise is higher pressure. Set your pressure FIRST. Even on units that run "good" the pressure is often incorrect and will cause odors when it is running.

 

[Jayayers]

My 60A heater runs for about 5 minutes then shuts off. I restart it and it does the same thing repeatedly! What can be the problem??

 

[Charles (in GA)]

For fuel pressures, etc, follow the link I posted above to reddyparts.com for a chart of air pressures for different models, and other throubleshooting tips.

Charles

 

[mhmltn3]

I am going to lend some (I hope) helpful advice.
After struggling with my 60k BTU heater for some time, here is what I have found:
1: It is a good Idea to buy a low pressure gauge and attach it permanently to the port on the left in the back. a 0-15 psi is fine. It is a great tool, even if the device is working, so you can monitor the health of the filters, etc.. EVERYTHING on this device relies on the pressure hovering around 3 psi. (Pressures vary dependent on model, you can google that.) If you can not keep a consistent pressure, the unit will not work correctly PERIOD.
2: Make sure you have clean fuel, whether it is Kero, Diesel, or JetA.
3: The seal (cork) on the back end MUST be in good shape (and be there.) Use some Vaseline on the cork to help make a good seal.
4: When all else fails (or if you or someone else has opened the Vein pump to clean it) VERIFY that it has been assembled correctly.
5: To clean the parts of the pump take extreme caution. Do not use and cleaners, just use a dry shop-type paper towel to wipe the parts off. Handle the parts gently, they are fragile, and can break easily.
6: Upon re-assembly of the pump MAKE SURE THE FINS ARE PLACED IN THE CORRECT ORIENTATION. You CAN install them 90 degrees out without the pump jamming up, and it will go back together, but the pressure will either fluctuate very rapidly, or not build pressure at all. When you put the fins back in, they will sit flush with the rotor, there will be no gap between the fins and the back plate. If there is a gap, rotate the fin 90 degrees, and check again. CHECK EVERY FIN. If one is worn, or does not slide properly when rotated, it will not work.
7:Verify the nozzle is clean.
8: The filters are cheap, replace them.
I can not stress enough that a pressure gauge will likely be your beacon in the dark here.... You can tell (if you know your heater well enough) how it should sound, and if it doesn't sound right, get a gauge. If it flutters fast, you probably need a rotor re-build kit. If you can't build pressure, there is something loose, or worn (like the cork gasket.) Check all connections. If you have the correct pressure, you get a good spray, and the HSI (Hot surface ignitor) glows, you may need a new photo eye. If you don't get a glow, get a new HSI.
Hope that helps.

how can you set the air pressure on the unit if you can't get it to run...

 

[mhmltn3]

this is my first time on this site so any guidance on this i'd appreciate...how can you set the air pressure on the unit if you can't get it to run...

 

[TractorJeff]

It may take a little chasing around to just get power to the motor. I'd bypass and wire directly to motor. BUT! It should run long enough to set the pressure before it realizes that it isn't firing. I haven't been inside of either of mine for a couple of years but one or both of them needed vane kits. I think they spun long enough to set the pressure before shutting off??? The following year, I needed to lubricate the pump motor bearings to get the smaller one running "quietly" again. Yours may have an issue with the photo eye or control board if it won't allow it to at least run for the short time period before it realizes the eye can not see flame. Like I stated, I'd wire directly to the motor to see if it spins freely by itself. Use the search function as there are a couple of more threads on these units. I know I had one started.

 

[Mark A Hanna]

Have a similar problem with my 115,000 btu reddy heater. Have changed everything I can except motor, fan, and pump. Even changed back housing. Have motor running at speed, pump is set at proper pressure, have igniter glowing, have fuel out of nozzle, but no light off!! Any suggestions?

 

[TractorJeff]

The Ignitor should be in the Fuel Spray pattern.
I just went through my 50K unit yesterday as it had gotten flaky in operation. I found the lock nut that holds the sparkplug had vibrate loose causing erratic ignition plus the Gap had eroded past the 0.060" Spec.
Today I will do the 100K Unit.