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Help removing Pipe fitting from air compressor?

timothylockhart

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Michigan
Hello everyone, apologies if this isnt the right forum.

I recently purchased second hand a Craftsman 33 gallon horizontal air compressor, I inspected it and it worked great before buying it, the Previous owner had installed a ball valve to drain the tank using a 90 Degree 1/4 NPT fitting and then a ball valve and some 1/4 pipe.

While loading it into the SUV we had to turn it on its side to fit and it caught on the fitting and broke the 90 degree off flush with the tank.

So I went and picked up some Speedout easy outs and some Ryobi spiraled extractors, I also had a pack of Left hand drill bits.

The largest left hand drill bit I had was 1/4 and would not catch in the existing hole.

I placed the speed outs in the drill and put it in the pre existing hole and it just sat there, the drill could not spin it out it wasnt even turning the speed out, I tried 3 different drills....

If i went in with the speedouts with the drill already turning it would just drill out the speed out,


So I tried the Ryobi Spiraled extractors,,,, They ended up just tapping the hole essentially since the hole goes straight through, We had some taps nearby and just ended up tapping it putting a bolt in it with some teflon tape around,

It seals alright but it leaks about 20lbs per hour, Id like to get it working right and get it sealed properly and the ball valve on,

This is the 1/4 elbow that is stuck in just the threaded portion you can see

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Mueller-Global-1-4-in-Black-Street-Elbow-90-Degree-520-301HN/100191300

This is the compressors model number, 919165330

I can no longer find just the nut that has the threaded portion on it or I would replace that,

Some Ideas I can think of

weld the 1/4 elbow on and hope it seals.

Attempt to drill out the elbow and hope I dont touch the old threads.

Drill it out and tap to a bigger size such and just use a bolt or maybe 3/8 setup..

Just not sure what would be the best and least destructive,

The only other thing would be to try those iriwin hanson

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRG66/?tag=atomicindus08-20

My buddy has a set I might be able to borrow.
 
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Advan

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Some pics would be helpful. If the broken fitting is in a pipe bushing that is in turn screwed into the tank? If so, just replace the bushing. Otherwise, an extractor might work. Option 3 is to buy a pipe tap in 3/8 or 1/2" NPT and fit a new bushing....
 

welder4956

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The tap drill size for 1/4" NPT is 7/16". Drill the broken fitting with the 7/16" drill bit, then use a thread pick to remove the remainder of the fitting.
 

slopdog

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I once broke a pipe fitting off flush on a hyd tank . Had a torx socket that tapped in snug . with some steady pressure it came out without any problem . Worth a shot, ( worked for me )
 

jerryd68

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these
http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Pipe...gclid=CJSus7Sv1tECFVg6gQod3M4G9g&gclsrc=aw.ds
 

bymi1

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Hi I've taken out all types of fittings on my compressor using a oxy/acetylene heating torch. with no problems.
 

manwithtools

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The tap drill size for 1/4" NPT is 7/16". Drill the broken fitting with the 7/16" drill bit, then use a thread pick to remove the remainder of the fitting.

Don't use a 7/16", use something smaller by a 1/32 or so. Fittings are not made concentric to their OD and you might damage the female threads in the tank if you rely on the fitting to guide your drill bit.
 
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timothylockhart

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Some pics would be helpful. If the broken fitting is in a pipe bushing that is in turn screwed into the tank? If so, just replace the bushing. Otherwise, an extractor might work. Option 3 is to buy a pipe tap in 3/8 or 1/2" NPT and fit a new bushing....

Sorry I dont have any available currently. Ill try to get some when I can, It is just a bushing But if you look at the sears catalog Its discontinued

Part # 39 off the first diagram, I cant seem to source it elsewhere.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/919165330/0247/0703000.html


The tap drill size for 1/4" NPT is 7/16". Drill the broken fitting with the 7/16" drill bit, then use a thread pick to remove the remainder of the fitting.

I think Ill try this as last resort Prior to tapping new whole!

I once broke a pipe fitting off flush on a hyd tank . Had a torx socket that tapped in snug . with some steady pressure it came out without any problem . Worth a shot, ( worked for me )

None of mine fit just right.. Good idea though


these
http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Pipe...gclid=CJSus7Sv1tECFVg6gQod3M4G9g&gclsrc=aw.ds

Checked these out they look pretty cool, Alot of reviews say they dont fit pipe threads properly since they arent tapered, have you used this set yourself Im just not sure if people are using it wrong or if its designed wrong.

Also because of the spiral flute extractor the hole is slightly enlarged so hoping these will still fit right..... Infact if it wouldn't fit prior maybe it will now :D

Hi I've taken out all types of fittings on my compressor using a oxy/acetylene heating torch. with no problems.

so heat up the bushing,, bushing expands, what did you then use to turn it out? currently its 100% flush

heat the area around the broken fitting,keep heat off the fitting. then try the easy out. or options above are good tries too.

Ok was the easy out bogging down the drills becuase the pipe fitting was just way too snug? and heating it might lessen that and let it turn? thanks

Don't use a 7/16", use something smaller by a 1/32 or so. Fittings are not made concentric to their OD and you might damage the female threads in the tank if you rely on the fitting to guide your drill bit.

ok, If I were to drill it more I think Id just keep stepping up bits that are barely too big until theres basically no material left.
 
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OccupantRJ

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With that large of a bushing, drill it out to allow tapping to it's present size, or drill to allow tapping to 3/8" npt pipe thread, or if outside your skill set, have it done by someone more skilled who has the tools.
 

stercorarius

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Don't use a drill on the easy out. Put a proper wrench on the easy out to turn it. There's no way a drill puts out sufficient torque for anything other than a screw. I usually hammer in a straight flute extractor and use a wrench on it. It should come out just fine. If the drill wasn't spinning your current extractor freely they may work if you just use a wrench to apply a proper amount of torque.

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48windsor

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I like the way you think . As soon as I saw this thread ,I was thinking that.
I once helped a mechanic friend undo a muffler same way ,expansion/ contraction from the heat .Got her done
 

manwithtools

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Don't use a drill on the easy out. Put a proper wrench on the easy out to turn it. There's no way a drill puts out sufficient torque for anything other than a screw. I usually hammer in a straight flute extractor and use a wrench on it. It should come out just fine. If the drill wasn't spinning your current extractor freely they may work if you just use a wrench to apply a proper amount of torque.

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk

I did not see the fact earlier that you were using a drill on the easy out, not the proper way to do that, do as spelled out above. Steady pressure in and counter clockwise will do it. Your situation is the perfect use for an easy out.
 

BD1

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Cut out the bushing and replace. If that bushing has enough of a flat surface , hole saw through and use sawzall to cut into bushing without contacting threads. Take hammer and chisel and remove bushing in pieces.
 

AnEv942

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Is it assumed (or known) that the larger OD thread of bushing is not also NPT?
Id heat it (likely thread locked) then remove bushing to verify this isnt an off the shelf standard pipe bushing.
 

jumpstart

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Don't use a drill on the easy out. Put a proper wrench on the easy out to turn it. There's no way a drill puts out sufficient torque for anything other than a screw. I usually hammer in a straight flute extractor and use a wrench on it. It should come out just fine. If the drill wasn't spinning your current extractor freely they may work if you just use a wrench to apply a proper amount of torque.

This should work.
 
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timothylockhart

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20170122_182529.jpg20170122_181400.jpg
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Here's a few pictures......

So ****** extractors wouldn't grab on what was left...

Spiral extractors does "grab" but I heated it up to 375f with a map tank shoved the spiral extractor in.

Used vice grips as that's what instructions said to use and only thing I had that would fit. It got extremely snug. But then the vice grips started to round the extractor shank rather then turn the fitting out.....


As far as easy outs with a wrench I tried that and also never got it to bite whether I tapped it in or applied pressure it would just sit and spin. That's why I tried a drill because the idea was I could keep it seated while turning the easy out.

So the bolt that kind of fit but still leaked(I hit it with a tap after last time and found a bolt that threaded semi decently) no longer tightens so it probably leaks worse....

So essentially even with heat it wouldn't come out. 375 (read with a laser thermometer) was the hottest my map tank could get it.


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matt_i

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These are my favorite tool for extracting.
http://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bolt-extractors/straight-flute-screw-extractors-536526-series

The problem I find with the usual style LH thread extractors are they put ever increasing outward pressure on the broken part which is completely directionally wrong. The 4 fluters are basically a metal-cutting tool, while there is a taper but the force is transferred via the sharp edges all trying to machine out a chip at the same time.

I would use oxyacetylene heat. Nothing can resist this if you get the part in question a dull orange color. Also I'd recommend heating without the extractor in place. Put that in at the end and use a crescent wrench.
 
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timothylockhart

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These are my favorite tool for extracting.
http://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bolt-extractors/straight-flute-screw-extractors-536526-series

The problem I find with the usual style LH thread extractors are they put ever increasing outward pressure on the broken part which is completely directionally wrong. The 4 fluters are basically a metal-cutting tool, while there is a taper but the force is transferred via the sharp edges all trying to machine out a chip at the same time.

I would use oxyacetylene heat. Nothing can resist this if you get the part in question a dull orange color. Also I'd recommend heating without the extractor in place. Put that in at the end and use a crescent wrench.

Yea I dont have access to oxyacetylene,,,, This was just a cheap $100 compressor I picked up and we snapped a fitting in.... as far as heating with extractor, what happened was I heated it without extractor, got extractor in, couldnt get it to turn the fitting out and after it cooled I couldnt pop the extractor out so I had to reheat it to pull it out.

Im thinking im just going to pick up a drill bit set since I dont have a real kit, Was looking at Drill hog bits, Usa made lifetime warranty and no size skipping for $90...

Then drill it out with a 7/16 drill bit and just use a 1/4 NPT tap I have laying around (dad's toolbox) and see if I can retap to original size, if not I guess I can go up to 3/8 and use 3/8 pipe fittings, Really just tired of messing with it with no success, Makes me feel like I can't fix **** you know?
 

Spareparts

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Your are Damn lucky you didn't blow that tank and anyone around it plum out of your shop. You never know what is in a vessel/tank. I have seen people spray WD-40 in the air intake to free up sticking valves, faulty filters sucking in paint fumes, compressor head using oil, just any number of things that settle in the tank. You don't know what the last owner did with it. Just now worth the risk of using any kind of flame around the tank. The big bung on the tank, I have not seen very many people get them out without ruining them, then you have really got a problem. Drill it out and tap it the next size, be it 3/8 or 1/2 npt and put a street el and ball valve on it. I do not like the 1/4" drain on the bottom anyway, I like a larger drain they don't clog as easy. You got lucky this time don't push it please.
 
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timothylockhart

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Your are Damn lucky you didn't blow that tank and anyone around it plum out of your shop. You never know what is in a vessel/tank. I have seen people spray WD-40 in the air intake to free up sticking valves, faulty filters sucking in paint fumes, compressor head using oil, just any number of things that settle in the tank. You don't know what the last owner did with it. Just now worth the risk of using any kind of flame around the tank. The big bung on the tank, I have not seen very many people get them out without ruining them, then you have really got a problem. Drill it out and tap it the next size, be it 3/8 or 1/2 npt and put a street el and ball valve on it. I do not like the 1/4" drain on the bottom anyway, I like a larger drain they don't clog as easy. You got lucky this time don't push it please.


This is something I didnt take into consideration, thanks, I think ill do that and try to tap to 1/4 NPT first since I have the Tap handy but if not may go to 3/8,

Do you know if the mild heat (400)F damaged any integrity to the bushing or tank? thanks
 

rsanter

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Drill it out and try to remove the remainder of the threads with a pick.
You can also drill it out and just run the pipe tap in there to kill the remaining threads.
The good thing is that if you nic the threads a little you can always tap them a little more and the new fitting will just go in a little deeper

Bob
 

OccupantRJ

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What Bob just suggested is your best course of action. A fairly sharp punch with a long taper can be used to collapse the pipe fitting inward on itself by repeatedly going around and around, always striking in an inward motion. Eventually it will be loose enough to rattle and rotate it with a screwdriver or needle nose pliers. If drilled until it is fairly thin walled, this will make this method work for you. Clean up the original threads with the pipe tap.
 

SteveH-CO

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Do you know if the mild heat (400)F damaged any integrity to the bushing or tank? thanks

In that the tank and fittings are not tempered (intentionally), I suspect not. Rust is a bigger enemy of the bottom of a compressor tank, due to infrequent drain intervals.
 

j-guenth

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Isn't the 1/4" pipe in a larger pipe plug??? Why don't you remove the larger pipe plug and drill and tap a new pipe plug???
 

racer-john

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The picture on post #19, remove that hexagonal bushing, go to the hardware store and replace it, also pick up a street elbow same as the broken one. Use yellow teflon tape on both fittings and your are done.
 
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timothylockhart

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The picture on post #19, remove that hexagonal bushing, go to the hardware store and replace it, also pick up a street elbow same as the broken one. Use yellow teflon tape on both fittings and your are done.
I guess I don't know if that is just standard piece or not. That's why I tried to order that bushing from parts replacement and couldn't find it

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BD1

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The large bushing is a STANDARD pipefitting. If you want the same size which looks to be 2 x 1/4 , you may only find that at a pipe supply house. Big box stores may have what you need to get to 1/4'' but it make take 2 or 3 bushings to do it.
Try chiseling the 1/4'' out and if no go just hack up the 2'', no big deal. Cut a bunch of saw kerfs and remove in pieces.
 

manwithtools

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You are not listening to people who are giving you sound advice. That is a standard pipe thread reducer. You can get one at any full line plumbing supply house, not the big box store. It's most certainly threaded into the tank, all pressure tanks are made that way.

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The Tool Tyrant

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Dude! I'm really getting frustrated reading this thread! JUST DRILL OUT THE HOLE WITH A 37/64" DRILL BIT AND RE-TAP IT FOR A 3/8" NPT...and be done with it already. Life is too short.
 
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timothylockhart

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You are not listening to people who are giving you sound advice. That is a standard pipe thread reducer. You can get one at any full line plumbing supply house, not the big box store. It's most certainly threaded into the tank, all pressure tanks are made that way.

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I am! Other users have recommended tapping. If tapping it to 1/4 or 3/8 npt doesn't work I'll be taking the reducer out. It's just that I have taps here but didn't have access to a Drill until tonight.

I opened this thread asking about the bushing and not being able to find it because I was going to replace it initially but thought it was compressor specific.




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metaldad

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chiseling out the fitting, is called 'caping'. cape chisels are available at industrial supply houses. you need to cut slots lengthways down the inside of broken fitting, and bang away at it, but with a 1/4'' fitting you aint getting a blade in there.
mayhem, wilde, proto makes them. (cant seem to link a pic here)
https://www.mcmaster.com/#cape-chisels/=161iqwe
(auto parts houses may have in stock)
 
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timothylockhart

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Drilling and tapping to 1/4 npt cleaned up original threads and popped out fittings, I'm all set thanks guys!

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BD1

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Are you funnin with us ??? Now was it that bad ??? :beer:

I know the first time you do this it can be scary .
 
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