Help Request: Sealing Air Compressor Oil Pan Gasket

[apittmanii]

I recently acquired a Belaire model 5026VP 2HP air compressor. Great price because the unit had a slow leak from the gasket of the oil pan. The original gasket was rubber and seemed to include silicone or some similar sealant around the corners. Replacement fitted rubber gaskets for this are expensive.

I replaced the oil pan with Felpro 3157 Gasket Material but the seal leaked even more than previously.

Question: What is the correct process for using aftermarket gasket material for this application? Please advise if I should use Permatex or some combination of Permatex and this gasket material.

Also, I cannot find the torque specifications for the oil pan bolts anywhere. The factory had they very loose, so I know it can't be much. I've seen others with around 50 inch pounds. Any advice on how tight all of these bolts should be for the oil pan?

Thank you

 

[Firebrick43]

You could coat both sides of the gasket with permatex #2 or rtv. You could also clean well and use permatex anaerobic gasket maker(my favorite).

There are standard torque charts online for you fastener size.

Are you sure you don't have worn or damaged rings (or plugged breather) causing the case to pressurize and blow out the gasket?

 

[nehog]

Permatex #2 is my thought as well, also check as I think that sump should have a vent on it to prevent pressure buildup.

 

[sberry]

Agree check vent. This is a simple cover, tighten snug and save some grief and use silicone.

 

[captaindiode]

I have had good luck with product called "the right stuff" gasket maker. It is in a small pressurized can. It is what Kohler recommends when reassembling their motors.

 

[apittmanii]

Thanks everyone for your feedback. I checked the vent and it was functioning fine. No obstructions.

The good news: silicone worked perfectly, sealed up great. No oil leaks.

The potentially bad / "learning experience" news: I didn't realize RTV was different than "Silicone II," which I used to seal it.

So my last question: remove the (non RTV) silicone II, replace with RTV Silicone? Or will 100% Silicone II work without issue? It did dry well over 2 days and has fully firmed up (if that makes a difference).

 

[matt_i]

In my shop I don't even have Silicone II. Thats for sealing bathtubs or roofing. I would start with a can of brake cleaner and the grey rtv (don't know why but I like that color better and used in all sorts of vehicle apps for 100,000+ miles without fail.) and some non-lint wipes (although paper towel could be used...)

You clean up the surfaces to "surgical clean" with the brake cleaner, apply to both sides of a brand new gasket, sparingly, don't want globs of cured silicone to fall off and foul up the inner workings of the machine. Then assemble and allow to cure 24 hrs before using.

 

[sberry]

If it isnt leaking dont mess with it. Doubt there is a whole lot of difference. 2 days is well cured.

 

[Firebrick43]

Thanks everyone for your feedback. I checked the vent and it was functioning fine. No obstructions.

The good news: silicone worked perfectly, sealed up great. No oil leaks.

The potentially bad / "learning experience" news: I didn't realize RTV was different than "Silicone II," which I used to seal it.

So my last question: remove the (non RTV) silicone II, replace with RTV Silicone? Or will 100% Silicone II work without issue? It did dry well over 2 days and has fully firmed up (if that makes a difference).

Leave it alone. Silicone II is an rtv. Rtv is room temperature vulcanizing. Some rtv have special characteristics such as high heat or no corrosive curing agents for aerospace/electrical applications but much of the name brand such as permatex is no different except in color than high quality 100% caulks other than color. In the industrial would we by Dow Corning silicone in caulk tubes, the gear cases are large enough sometime we go through most of a tube for one. You need a special rtv for high heat or intakes manifolds but in those applications locktite anaerobic gasket maker is so far superior I would think of rtv. Your application it's fine

For future reference to clean a surface just scrape with a single edge razor blade(new one every time, they are cheap) in a holder. Then use a piece of gray scotchbrite to clean aluminum or Maroon for steel/iron. If oils persist use clear PVC primer. It's MEK in a handy can with a handy applicator. It's one chemical you don't want on you however.

 

[apittmanii]

I went ahead and left it as-is. Appreciate everyone's help on this.

 

[atomicpunk]

What is the size and grade of the pan bolts? There are generic charts that will give you torque specs.