ez-duzit
Well-known member
Your complete lack of understanding raises doubts that you are the one to do that. But I'll try one last time.
Delta's "Tilting Arbor Saw" is NOT a "Unisaw".
Help selecting a table saw
- Thread starter hemiallen
- Start date
Your complete lack of understanding raises doubts that you are the one to do that. But I'll try one last time.
Delta's "Tilting Arbor Saw" is NOT a "Unisaw".
Instead of saying the same thing over and over again, could you just explain the differences?
ez-duzit
Well-known member
I give up.
quattro_sinko
Well-known member
I apologize
The manual says Deluxe unigard model 34-976, and I see an image that must be the cabinet one that says Unisaw 10" tilting Arbor saw. Sorry I didn't see that. It is still $1500, and it seems even with the extension with router hole it is expensive.
Sorry for the confusion, and the ensuing conversation/ discussion my error created.
Allen
The manual says Deluxe unigard model 34-976, and I see an image that must be the cabinet one that says Unisaw 10" tilting Arbor saw. Sorry I didn't see that. It is still $1500, and it seems even with the extension with router hole it is expensive.
Sorry for the confusion, and the ensuing conversation/ discussion my error created.
Allen
woody 73
Well-known member
Allen Not sure this is in your area of California; but this is a good idea of what you should look for.
https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/tls/d/delta-unisaw-10-tilting-arbor/6638548490.html
Hope it hels you out.
https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/tls/d/delta-unisaw-10-tilting-arbor/6638548490.html
Hope it hels you out.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
73--I'd jump on that immediately!
quattro_sinko
Well-known member
Looks great for the money! Be aware, this is the machine only, no fence, mobile base, etc (that I see). Those things can add up if buying accessories new.
Agreed!
Roberts210
Well-known member
Rockwell sold a saw they called the "10" Tilting Arbor Saw" that was in quality halfway between the Unisaw and the Contractor's saw. I know because I owned one from the mid-1980's until 2009 when I got my Unisaw and sold my Rockwell 10" Tilting Arbor Saw.
The Rockwell "Tilting Arbor Saw" had a full cast iron top but the motor hung off the back and turned the arbor through one long belt. The lower part of the saw was just a steel frame with splayed feet--there was no cabinet. Here is a picture of one.
The Rockwell "Tilting Arbor Saw" had a full cast iron top but the motor hung off the back and turned the arbor through one long belt. The lower part of the saw was just a steel frame with splayed feet--there was no cabinet. Here is a picture of one.
Roberts210
Well-known member
It had a 115/230 motor that developed 1.5 h.p.
quattro_sinko
Well-known member
Rockwell sold a saw they called the "10" Tilting Arbor Saw" that was in quality halfway between the Unisaw and the Contractor's saw. I know because I owned one from the mid-1980's until 2009 when I got my Unisaw and sold my Rockwell 10" Tilting Arbor Saw.
The Rockwell "Tilting Arbor Saw" had a full cast iron top but the motor hung off the back and turned the arbor through one long belt. The lower part of the saw was just a steel frame with splayed feet--there was no cabinet. Here is a picture of one.
Thanks for the clarification on the Rockwell 10, Roberts210. Although I am aware that Delta and Rockwell have an intertwined history, I wasn't aware of that model in the Rockwell line up. Knowing this I can see where maybe the confusion (possibly mine) arose from.
Personally I'm not a fan of the router table/saw table combo you see a lot.
It seems to make sense, but one will always be in the way of the other.
If they are separate, you can leave them setup for repeat operations.
It seems to make sense, but one will always be in the way of the other.
If they are separate, you can leave them setup for repeat operations.
from Disneyland. OC is 5 1/2 hours south of me, thanks for the link, just too far a haul.stingry
Well-known member
Correct. About 20 or so years ago, delta made a 10” cabinet saw which was sorta a cross between the contractors saw and a unisaw. I believe it was 2 hp and was a tilting arbor design. It is no longer made but similar “ hybrid” saws are made today.
quattro_sinko
Well-known member
OP: You buy a saw?
Not yet, but a Delta Unisaw is my plan. I need to get the plans finished and the county to cut the permit before getting the saw, the workspace I have now won't allow me room to use it, so unless the shop is a go, no place to put it! let alone use it.
Sad to be in this position, I have plenty of projects that NEED this shop.
Almost done adjusting the drip tubing on our 17 acres of new Vineyard, which Vines are supposed to be ready the end of August. 98 rows, 150 vines per row, drip every 20", logging hours on the Mule to save some steps.
Thanks
Sad to be in this position, I have plenty of projects that NEED this shop.
Almost done adjusting the drip tubing on our 17 acres of new Vineyard, which Vines are supposed to be ready the end of August. 98 rows, 150 vines per row, drip every 20", logging hours on the Mule to save some steps.
Thanks
matt_i
Well-known member
My free advice, I have had 2 different 10" saws, a Craftsman "cast iron" with a Biesemeyer fence, and a PM66 of around 1999 vintage (still wearing the USA flag decal from McMinnville, TN).
I like the PM66 over the Delta Unisaw due to the fact that the unisaw's blade tilts toward the fence when placed on the right. The PM66's arbor tilts away from the fence in the same configuration. While a person could simply reverse the fence the ergonomics get a bit strange and that's not a good thing running a tablesaw if you get my drift....there is less chance of trapping a piece between the blade and the fence when ripping with the arbor tilted.
At the end of the day however, the fence is what makes the saw easy and fast to use. Yeah I like the solid cast wings on the PM over the "web wings" of the Craftsman but that first Biesemeyer was a light year step forward over anything I had ever used before. The PM has the same exact fence design if you ask me. When you get the cross-hair aligned with the stuck-on ruler and you build trust in the equivalence between your tape measure and the fence, you will be able to move with speed and precision.
Last point is that I ran the Craftyman on both 120vac and 240vac and on low voltage it dimmed the lights and took about 2-3 seconds to reach running speed. Rewired for 240vac and it was at full speed before I could blink my eyes. I was sold on the benefits of the higher voltage.
I like the PM66 over the Delta Unisaw due to the fact that the unisaw's blade tilts toward the fence when placed on the right. The PM66's arbor tilts away from the fence in the same configuration. While a person could simply reverse the fence the ergonomics get a bit strange and that's not a good thing running a tablesaw if you get my drift....there is less chance of trapping a piece between the blade and the fence when ripping with the arbor tilted.
At the end of the day however, the fence is what makes the saw easy and fast to use. Yeah I like the solid cast wings on the PM over the "web wings" of the Craftsman but that first Biesemeyer was a light year step forward over anything I had ever used before. The PM has the same exact fence design if you ask me. When you get the cross-hair aligned with the stuck-on ruler and you build trust in the equivalence between your tape measure and the fence, you will be able to move with speed and precision.
Last point is that I ran the Craftyman on both 120vac and 240vac and on low voltage it dimmed the lights and took about 2-3 seconds to reach running speed. Rewired for 240vac and it was at full speed before I could blink my eyes. I was sold on the benefits of the higher voltage.
^I can't speak for the voltage upgrade, but will comment how nice it is to have a sturdy fence that is properly aligned. I upgraded my trust CM 113.xxxxxx 10" saw to a Biesemeyer fence and aligned the blade properly, and it cuts well.
I just bought a Wilton Bullet from a guy who had two unisaws at opposing ends of a roughly 8x12' table setup. Said he got tired of changing out dado stacks and blades, so just bought another to have a dedicated ripping and dado saw.
I just bought a Wilton Bullet from a guy who had two unisaws at opposing ends of a roughly 8x12' table setup. Said he got tired of changing out dado stacks and blades, so just bought another to have a dedicated ripping and dado saw.
+1
It looked very much like a Unisaw, with full cabinet and internal motor, but was much lighter and had a different trunnion assembly. The easiest way to tell if it's a Unisaw is to look inside the blade cutout---Unisaw has 3 belts, while the lesser saw has only one V-belt.
My Unisaw is a '69 (which I believe is the same as Norm Abrams'), 3hp, w/Biesemeyer. I've owned it about 20 years now, and it was the best purchase for my shop I ever made.
If you go back further to the 40's thru early 50's, the Unisaw carried a massive 1 hp "reluctance" motor. I would recommend a newer style motor and 3hp to handle modern thick kerf blades, especially when ripping thick hardwood at a decent feed to avoid burning.
quattro_sinko
Well-known member
quattro_sinko
Well-known member
Only if you are near Rochester, my home away from home for 4 years.
Work? School? I grew up in that neck of the woods.
Marctrees
Well-known member
Be aware - You can tell at a glance if a saw is R or L tilt.....by seeing the direction of the arc slot in the cabinet.
Up and to left - R tilt.
Up and to right- L tilt.
Marc
Up and to left - R tilt.
Up and to right- L tilt.
Marc
Work
We were doing Laser diagnostics experiments at The Laboratory for Laser Energetics (LLE) . I was able to spend a lot of weekends in Upstate due to back to back weeks, and the option to stay there VS fly home and back again.
I really miss Dinosaur BBQ and Delmonico's .
Not being a table saw person, any reason to choose a right vs left tilt?
Thanks
We were doing Laser diagnostics experiments at The Laboratory for Laser Energetics (LLE) . I was able to spend a lot of weekends in Upstate due to back to back weeks, and the option to stay there VS fly home and back again.
I really miss Dinosaur BBQ and Delmonico's .
Not being a table saw person, any reason to choose a right vs left tilt?
Thanks
Marctrees
Well-known member
Need to read and decide for yourself - Cause it's largely a matter of opinion.
Marc
https://www.google.com/search?q=tab.....69i57j0l3.8785j1j1&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Marc
https://www.google.com/search?q=tab.....69i57j0l3.8785j1j1&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
quattro_sinko
Well-known member
One of the biggest things to remember is not to trap off-cut between the blade and fence. It is surprising (and terrifying) to see how fast a saw can eject pieces.
With that in mind, I think for the most part, it boils down to preference and safety. Most of the smaller portable saws tilt left, and it seems that the mechanics for using the saw (fence to the left (edit:right) of the blade, holding material against the fence with my left hand (depending on length), feeding with my right.
My Unisaw tilts right, and this means that when ripping a bevel cut, my mechanics are reversed. It's not impossible, but requires even more care to complete cuts safely.
I would have preferred a left tilting saw, but wasn't going to walk away from the deal
((Re-reading my post, I realized I mis-spoke, when ripping non beveled cuts, I have the fence to the right of the blade, and hold/push materials as described above, my point still stands, when ripping bevels on a right-tilting saw, I have to reverse how I hold and feed stock))
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Marctrees
Well-known member
Hemiallen - IMHO, re read posts #'s 67, 57, and 49.
I really think for your needs to look for an older Delta/ Rockwell, or Powermatic "Contractor" saw , 2 hp 120 v, with a 52" Biesmeyer fence.
The best saw will be made approx 1955- 1980.
The Biesemeyer was back then aftermarket added.
Absolutely get USA, NOT Taiwan, later China... started in around late 70's.
2 hp w a good blade will be sufficient up to actual 2" hardwood, but not really thicker.
The "Contractor" saws ( visually- open leg base w a shelf.. NOT an enclosed cabinet).
Motor hanging out back.
Pretty sure ALL of those were left tilt.
Fab a nice mobile base, or buy one... like HTC.
With patience, you will find a clean gently used one that Grandpa had in his basement since new..for around $400 - $700.
This will be your best bang for the buck.
Marc
I really think for your needs to look for an older Delta/ Rockwell, or Powermatic "Contractor" saw , 2 hp 120 v, with a 52" Biesmeyer fence.
The best saw will be made approx 1955- 1980.
The Biesemeyer was back then aftermarket added.
Absolutely get USA, NOT Taiwan, later China... started in around late 70's.
2 hp w a good blade will be sufficient up to actual 2" hardwood, but not really thicker.
The "Contractor" saws ( visually- open leg base w a shelf.. NOT an enclosed cabinet).
Motor hanging out back.
Pretty sure ALL of those were left tilt.
Fab a nice mobile base, or buy one... like HTC.
With patience, you will find a clean gently used one that Grandpa had in his basement since new..for around $400 - $700.
This will be your best bang for the buck.
Marc
Marctrees
Well-known member
W the Bies 52" fence, you will have a large table to right of original saw cast table.. there is PLENTY of room there if you want to hang a router under it.
Marc
Marc
So I will be in the minority here, but I encourage you to look at a Sawstop if you can afford it (or the new Bosch that I hear has flesh sensing technology as well). If you can't, save up until you can afford it! I know....everyone is careful with the table saw. Truth be known, I am a hand surgeon. I own a Sawstop because there were a lot of people who were "careful" who have paid me thousands and thousands of dollars to reattach their fingers. Don't get me wrong, I am the most daring and adventurous doctor you will ever meet, but I do side with the paranoid safety folks out there that a the extra few thousand you pay for those saws will quickly pay for itself if you just knick a finger with the saw one day. Not only will the Sawstop protect your fingers, but it is also a precision quality saw that can compete with any out there. I know it is thousands more, but trust me, a trip to the ER to even wash out a finger laceration and stitch it shut costs much more than that. Just my $.02--I am not insulted at all if you don't take it!
bubinga
Well-known member
Late to the party but I picked up a completely refinished with two-part epoxy paint and internally rebuilt West new bearings and new belts Plug & Play for the random price of $569 ready to go it's still had the older jet Lock Fence on which I upgraded to a 25 in Beach Bar fence that I scored for $80 Circa 2005 from the Lowe's blowout and it is a wonderful table saw. It had the one horsepower what they called a bullet induction motor on it. So they are out there you can sometimes get lucky and pick one up for about $300 however a lot of them from the school shops are three phase what can easily be converted with a static phase converter avfd is not needed for a table saw just my two cents let us know what you come up with I did not finish reading the whole thread you may have already gave that answer thanks for reading
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bubinga
Well-known member
0MG a platinum edition unisaw with 52 inch Biesmier(SP?) fence for $650 you stole it!
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bubinga
Well-known member
Yes if I were more well-off financially these days I have a little bit of trouble with my nerves AKA nerve damage I am off and on pins and needles so to speak when using my conventional unisaw, but again if I had the means I would surely opt for a sawstop table saw. I am especially mindful when using my conventional unisaw. There are a lot of YouTube videos I'm sure you know demonstrating the safety feature of the sawstop where they use a hot dog to imitate a finger very good safety device. I think if I am not mistaken it is a law that all high school and college technical schools must have the sawstop type of table saw again could I afford one it would surely be in my basement. As the above poster pointed out it is good peace of mind and quote unquote peace off body.
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2Big2Ride
Well-known member
I'm not a doctor or in the medical field and I would/will buy a Sawstop for the reasons you listed.
quattro_sinko
Well-known member
I wasn't "in the market" for a shop saw that day but I couldn't pass it up. I am grateful every time I use it (it came with a BN Rockler adjustable cross-cut sled too)
A few years ago I built a table for the set of a play at a local college. I got to use the onsite University wood shop (after hours) to do so. They had a brand new SawStop, and it was a VERY nice saw. Having followed the development of the SawStop, and having the hot-dog demo at a trade show when the saw was first introduced, it was nice to finally get to try one out. I thought about testing it, but couldn't get this clip out of my head:
(edit: not to mention that I believe the SawStop safety feature functions by firing a pin/rod THROUGH the blade to stop it instantaneously, destroying the blade in the process. I'd trade a blade for a digit any day, but did not want to experiment on others' equipment)
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bubinga
Well-known member
Nice!
I just have a few shop built cross cut sleds.
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bubinga
Well-known member
Yes I think it ruins more than just the blade I think you have to buy a whole kit once it is sprung I'm not exactly sure but it comes with a blade and a for lack of a better term hunk of metal that the blade jams into if I recall correctly.
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Its a spring fired mech that fires a aluminum block into the blade when the sensor is tripped.
All said and done, you are replacing the $75 "brake" and the blade it gnarred up.
Oh, and it fires when it senses really wet wood, metal, or anything else that is conductive....
But if you got the budge or the pucker, its a great saw.
All said and done, you are replacing the $75 "brake" and the blade it gnarred up.
Oh, and it fires when it senses really wet wood, metal, or anything else that is conductive....
But if you got the budge or the pucker, its a great saw.