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Help. Thoughts on buying this drill press?

Climb On!

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Can anyone make out any details from the photo on this craftsman drill press? I'm looking to buy an old reliable drill press and this one popped up, I just don't know much about it and neither does the owner. Here's what he's said, "Craftsman Drill press, strong built. 1/2 HP motor, 1/2" chuck (theres no visible model number)." I'm going to see it tomorrow, suggestions on what to look for? What to offer?

Thanks!
 

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Kirbot

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You may wan't to bring along a dial indicator to check the spindle.

Other than that it looks like a pretty nice drill press.
Personally I'm a big fan of old stationary tools vs the newer stuff.
You won't find any plastic on this machine, thats for sure!


Only thing I can think of to mention, is that it probably only uses 2 pulleys instead of three.

Meaning it's going to spin too fast for most metal drilling.


You should be able to find some info about it here...
http://www.owwm.com/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=222&tab=4
 

Bigpigdave

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Check the spindle and chuck for runout. Make sure the motor is 1725 RPM and works good. These are great old drill presses and should last a long time if taken care of. My Dad has one at the farm shop that is over 50 years old, it has drilled a lot of holes in both metal and wood. If the low speed of approx. 600 RPM is too fast, it is not hard to fabricate an extra pulley for further speed reduction.
Good luck, Dave

P.S. I have a PDF copy of the manual if you are interested.
 
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Stuart in MN

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There are a number of here on the board who have that model drill press. Sears sold them for probably 20 years or more, with only minor changes. They're a good, strong tool.
 
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Climb On!

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Thanks everyone, good info. I've got the basics now and know what to look for today when I check it out. The owwm.com website was another good source to see some of the different models and their details. I didn't find anywhere a good play-by-play on how to refurbish one of these guys.
 

willy3486

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Most of my old tools are old ones I pick up and rebuild. There is not much really to rebuilding any. Just time,oil,grease,paint and grit. Once you do get it look for the model number, a lot of the craftsman stuff will be like 109.XXXXXXX then look on owwm for the manual. Its a good site but don't get too involved. I quit going there due to some of the mods overthere, I got tired of their BS.

Anyway as far as what to look for straightness or warping, cracks and parts missing. Parts can be had at ebay but pricey. I tend to stay away if it has parts missing that would be hard to find unless its for parts only. Belts,wiring cords and some switches can be got anywhere. Pulleys are not too bad to find. You can get new pulleys at places like grangers I think its called. I rebuilt a delta lathe and got a pulley there. But cast iron parts are harder to find. The clamps that hold the tray sometimes crack so look for welds. If you rebuild it you can clean any aluminum parts with oven cleaner or dip them in water that has lye crystals you use to clean drains. But watch closely so it will not eat through the aluminum. And also wash thourghly with cold water when done. If the aluminum has decals or factory paint you want to stay don't do this method it will remove it. I poliish it with scotchbrite then a silver wadding that you can get at walmart in a can.


Krylon has a good primer and also a good match to the gray paint used on the older tools. They also have a good blue like color for the deltas and some craftsman as well. I have redone tools for years and the krylon rattle cans does great if you do good prepwork. If you have rusted together parts I electroylitic to clean them. you can do a search on that.Don't use that for anything plated or has wood on it. Plating will come off and wood will turn blank. I have done tools that are comepletely rusted up and got them to going again. They are not bad to do either, My scroll saw below I did in about a week in spare time. I only have 80 bucks in it and I couldn't get another deep scroll saw for as cheap or good quality anywhere else.

To give you an idea of what can be done here is a before and after shot. I had to make a few of the parts used to tighten the head as well. To see some of my tools check out the pics at http://good-times.webshots.com/album/569408649spoWff

Now the saw,before and after

Before

2337661480101948653S425x425Q85.jpg



And the after

2876755290101948653S425x425Q85.jpg



Pictures just not do an old tool justice after it has been redone. Let me know if you have questions, I have rebuilt and fixed my own tools for over 30 years now. Its the best way I know how to get good quality tools on a budget. Now if I can only find a small metal lathe.
 
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Climb On!

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Willy, the scroll saw looks great. I gotta find me one too. I like all the radios you've got as well. Thanks for the help on the DP. I picked it up this afternoon. Its dirty, but runs well and true. The motor casing does have a small crack and the action is a little gummy, but everything else is in good shape. I'm looking forward to cleaning it up and putting it to work. It belonged to the guys dad, model number 103.23140, and he's had it since. Where do I find parts for this thing?
 

DavidB

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Of course if you're not a full machinist you're stuck scumming it trolling the used market for parts. :) Owwm has a pretty active classifieds section and there's always ebay.
 

willy3486

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As far as the action being gummy after a good going through and belts it will probably be fixed. As far as the cracked part is it still together? Does it seem to affect it any? If it doesn't affect it I might not worry about it. If its the plate that holds the motor you should still have 3 other holes to hold the motor.

Check to see if you can find someone to weld cast iron. I am not a big time welder and I have heard it was hard to do. But I have seen stuff put back together that was cast. I have never had it done. Worse case scenario you could make a new plate and just bolt it to the old one. With stuff like this I just let my mind wander until the solution presents itself. Get the mechanics of it going then get a new belt. As far as parts like others said ebay and owwm. Sometimes you can still get old parts directly from sears but when they are older you can't.

Some of the parts you can make as easily as it is to track down. The scroll saw I redone had a few items missing. I had to replace a few of the knobs. I have a box of old electrical machine knobs that had allen screws in them. They matched it really good so I used some of them. I had to make a new clamp to hold the head that holds the blade. The guy who owned it before ground a bolt down and HAMMERED it into the opening to hold it. I did a search over at owwm for one and found what it was suppose to look like. I found a bolt that would fit the opening. I then cut and filed down a "v" like it was suppose to be. I then drilled a hole in the center,cut it to shape and tapped one of the pieces I made to put a bolt in. It took about a hour to make and I made it with a drill press,grinder and hack saw. No fancy tools. So let your mind wander.

Thanks for the complement on the radios. I have worked on a lot of them. I have a lot as well. I got burned out redoing them because of people wanting me to fix theirs. The problem I hand wasn't with people who wanted grandpas old set fixed it was with antique dealers. I let people know I wouldn't fix them if they were going to sell them and they would always lie about it. So I quit completely,even fixing mine. I still have my tools and parts in case I want to do it again. I was even in a few magizines, I think I was in popular electronics a couple of times. I got out of that, then built my house,shop, then fixed my truck,redid a few campers,and now I am into fixing up old tools. So you never know what I might try next.
 
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Climb On!

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Willy,

Thanks. The crack is in the motor housing, I don't think its a big deal. I haven't had a chance to clean it up too thoroughly, but just getting a lot of the dust and grime has smoothed out the action quite a bit.

Good for you not getting taken advantage of, sounds like BS to me..at least you should have gotten a cut.

Chuck
 
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Climb On!

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Any suggestions on how to clean up the motor? Disassemble, dust off reassemble? It looks pretty gummy inside there, but it still runs.

What are the "Craftsman" colors? Blue or Gold? Anything close in a certain rattle can brand?
 

A_Pmech

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Kenwc

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I hope you'll post pics along the way as you restore the DP. That model is pretty straightforward to restore and parts for it are always popping up Ebay and OWWM. There really are no "how to" guides for a particular machine on OWWM but you will find threads on restoring a motor or polishing a drill press column or replacing spindle bearings..rust removal etc...most would apply to any machine. You could get hooked on this slippery slope of restoration as I sorta have....

I have 3 drill presses, 1 Delta Scroll saw, 1 1936 Delta band saw, 4 Delta triple duty grinders, 1 Delta direct drive 12" disk sander...and I forget what else...all made between 1930 and 1960. And it all started with "1 drill press"...shown below. Not quite finished....

3n23mc3oeZZZZZZZZZ94da7c48b894b0f12.jpg

105_0052.jpg
 
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Climb On!

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A_Pmech, thanks for the link to your rebuild...sweet job. Kenwc, I hear you on the addiction...I can feel it coming already!
 

fflintstone

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Any suggestions on how to clean up the motor? Disassemble, dust off reassemble? It looks pretty gummy inside there, but it still runs.
QUOTE]

IMO DO NOT take it apart!
First try spraying electrical cleaner on it. Do not be stingy with it, put some papers down it will be messy.
 

willy3486

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Any suggestions on how to clean up the motor? Disassemble, dust off reassemble? It looks pretty gummy inside there, but it still runs.
What are the "Craftsman" colors? Blue or Gold? Anything close in a certain rattle can brand?

As far as the motor if it is running I would not take it apart.Blow it out if you can. I usually get a good electronic cleaner that evaporates and safe for plastics and spray in it. You can get that at a electronic supply store,maybe radio shack or mcmelectronics.com. let it dry. If you can clean it out by blowing it and then cleaner you just create extra work if you take it apart. If it has brushes sometimes they can be a pain to put back together.
Then oil it if it has a oil cup or a place to put some in. As far as the paint can you tell hat color it originally was? Maybe scrape with a razor blade. I usually scrape or take a pice to match the color. If you can't get enough for a match check out the owwm site in the photos section and look for your model. If you find your model there that has been done print it off with a color printer. Then take it with you to match. It may not be exactly as the original color but it should be close. As far as paint goes I have had great luck with krylon rattle can paint on the old tools.
 
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fflintstone

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Why? :dunno:

There's nothing to an induction motor...

Its working, WHY take it apart? I have had GREAT results cleaning old motors with electrical cleaner. I have on occasion spent a bit of time looking on my floor for various small parts that have fallen out. Just my opinion, your mileage may vary.
 
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Climb On!

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Alright, I go the safe route and blow it out and spray some electronics cleaner in there. It works, so I guess why risk it...especially when I don't know where to get parts if needed.
 

evintho

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I got me one. Model #103.24531. It's undergoing a light resto but I'm stalled right now. Way too many projects! I've been able to disassemble it, clean it up and paint it. Now I just have to put it back together!

PA300002.jpg


I'm sure you've seen this. Check out pages 5 & 6 for a parts list and exploded photo.

http://www.owwm.com/pubs/222/1519.pdf

Here's a fairly detailed article I did on disassembly of the head unit. It may help.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51384&showall=1

I blasted the cast iron pieces.................

P6070003.jpg


Then found some gold spray paint that's real close to the gold color used originally by Craftsman. It's a hammertone finish by Rustoleum. It's #7210 Gold. I think Home Depot carries it.

PA300002_01.jpg


As far as the motor goes, don't be afraid of it! It's really very simple. Take it apart carefully and remember where everything goes. Pictures are good. Blow it out with compressed air, wipe everything down, clean the armature and stator? with electrical contact cleaner, replace the brushes if necessary and reassemble. It'll be good for another 50 years!:rocker:
 
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Climb On!

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Awesome, thanks. I've read it three or four times already!

Here's a question. Do the lock sleeves just get tapped back in place or do they have to be pressed in. I don't have a press and want to be sure I can get it back together after I pull them out.

Any suggestions on how to refinish the old chrome pieces?

Chuck
 

willy3486

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Any suggestions on how to refinish the old chrome pieces?

Chuck
The only thing I know of is rechroming or replacing. I use electrolsys rust removal to clean metal but don't do it on chrome. It will remove it. If it is aluminum you can clean it with oven cleaner if it comes off the machine and let it clean it.But keep and eye on it so it won't eat the aluminum through. But if its painted or lettered it may remove the paint. Wash it off with cold water good,dry then clean with silver wadding compound you can get at walmart.You might get it clean enough just by doing the compound and not use the oven cleaner. They also have the product at advance auto as a chrome polish. Its a cotton like rag you can pull pieces out and polish. If you polish and clean good enough the old aluminum gets almost as shiny as a mirror. I might work good on chrome as well
 
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Stuart in MN

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Note that the color changed over the years - the one above is gold, but they were a couple shades of grey as well depending on their age.
 
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Climb On!

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Thanks gang. I'll keep chugging along. I guess I'll polish things up as best I can and I think I'll cheat and repaint it the bronze/goldish color vice the gray it is now.
 
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Climb On!

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Here's the after-shots...
 

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