HELP!! U-Coat it already shot

[tbirder]

Hi all,
Just found this forum yesterday and I think there's more than enough knowledge here to help with my problem.
I did my shop floor about five years ago with U-Coat it. The clear has been popping up & blistering in a random "worm trail" pattern for a couple years and now it's peeling up in sheets, and the base color is starting to let go as well.
I was less than pleased with the finished product back when it was first done, and flat pi$$ed off with the know how of their (self proclaimed) in house experts. But I'll wait to share that whole story untill after my "lifetime warrenty" claim decision is handed down.
Any way, here's my question. What would be the best and most cost effective way to strip my floor back to bare concrete? It's a 42' x 64' shop. I'm going to want to re coat the floor, but I want to start with a bare floor again.
Thanks a ton and I'm looking forward to your input.

Clint

 

[PurdueSD]

I think you are going to need to have it shot blasted or diamond ground...

 

[tncatadjuster]

Just shotblasting will not work. It will have to be removed first and then shotblasted. It will have to be scrapped off and whatever remains can then be shotblasted.

The key question here is will all the old coating come off, or are parts still bonded well. If the blastrack will not remove the old coating then it is bonded well enough to take a new coating. Then there is the problem of the profile of blasted concrete to the remaining coating. The top layer of the concrete is removed and the old coating that is bonded is now much higher than the profiled concrete. Usually, I just scrape and blast, then float out the difference with a 100% solids epoxy.

Good luck and feel free to call if you need more info.

 

[tbirder]

Then there is the problem of the profile of blasted concrete to the remaining coating. The top layer of the concrete is removed and the old coating that is bonded is now much higher than the profiled concrete.

Hey There,
Thanks for the replys you guys.
I do have a question about the comment on blasting. What type of blasting would remove that much material (concrete)? The only blasting method I've heard of uses steel shot and won't remove concrete. Or so I'm told.
Clint

 

[tncatadjuster]

The shot can remove a serious amount of material if left in one place for long.
It is dependent on length of time and size of shot. The only thing it won't remove is anything that will bounce and not fracture, like rubber or goo. If epoxy is bonded to the concrete then it will abrade the coating. Most epoxies are anywhere from 6-12K psi, where concrete is 3-4K psi compressive strength. That is why it is so hard to just blast epoxy off of concrete when you get to an exposed area with the blaster it eats the concrete at a much greater rate and makes the profile even more so.

Send me some close up pics and I will do the best to make recommendations.

 

[porphyre]

How about a scarifier? Looking at the pictures it takes a good amount of material off.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53373&highlight=scarifier

 

[tbirder]

Send me some close up pics and I will do the best to make recommendations.

Thanks again for the input.
I'll round up some close up shots of the floor and some of the bad spots and post them.
It may be early next week, but I'll get it done.
I spent a TON on this floor and to have it hold up as poorly as it did just makes me sick.
Clint

 

[AlphaGarage]

Scarifying would be too aggressive. A grinder is probably your best bet.

Try find a 16" - 22" inch model, single or dual head. Tell the rental yard what you need to do, and they should help you get the right set-up of grinder and media. With 2,700 ft2 you might be able to finish the task in one day, but be prepared to spend two days just in case.

 

[ixlr8]

Is there any chance that you have moisture coming up through the floor which could be lifting the coating??? If you do, I suspect you will have trouble getting anybodies product to stick. Although, I would have thought that the U-Coat-it folks would have checked that before offering a 'lifetime' warranty.

 

[regguy1]

Hi all,
Just found this forum yesterday and I think there's more than enough knowledge here to help with my problem.
I did my shop floor about five years ago with U-Coat it. The clear has been popping up & blistering in a random "worm trail" pattern for a couple years and now it's peeling up in sheets, and the base color is starting to let go as well.
I was less than pleased with the finished product back when it was first done, and flat pi$$ed off with the know how of their (self proclaimed) in house experts. But I'll wait to share that whole story untill after my "lifetime warrenty" claim decision is handed down.
Any way, here's my question. What would be the best and most cost effective way to strip my floor back to bare concrete? It's a 42' x 64' shop. I'm going to want to re coat the floor, but I want to start with a bare floor again.
Thanks a ton and I'm looking forward to your input.

Clint

Maybe just leave it in place and go over top with tiles like Racedeck or lower priced alternatives at Costco / Sams / eBay

 

[SC-Eric]

I would suggest grinding to remove the coating. However, you MUST use PCD diamonds. Standard diamonds will NOT work as they will get hot and gum up the coating.

Another option would be chemical removal which would be nasty for a shop that size.

I would NOT recommend shotblasting to remove the coating unless it is really thin.

 

[bmwpower]

I would suggest grinding to remove the coating. However, you MUST use PCD diamonds. Standard diamonds will NOT work as they will get hot and gum up the coating.

Another option would be chemical removal which would be nasty for a shop that size.

I would NOT recommend shotblasting to remove the coating unless it is really thin.

PCD diamonds?

 

[tbirder]

Hey all,
Thanks for all the input.
I think grinding is starting to look like the answer. I would however like to know what the "chemical stripping" process is all about before I get started with the grinders.
I'd call U-coat it, but based on the quality of all the other info I've been fed by these guys, they'll end up pulling from their behinds any way.

I do have a question about grinding, what is ment by "PCD" diamonds???

Oh and by the way, I got my "Warenty Denied" letter yesterday from the fine folks at UCoat-it. Apparently I suffer from "softend concrete" syndrome? Can I get a pill for that??
Anyway, I still want to give them one more chance to "fix it" before I start unloading on them.
Thanks for the help you guys,
Clint

 

[Irondrive]

PCD's are polycrystalline diamonds. They are used for old coating, thinset, mastic etc removal. They do not prep the concrete for new coatings, you'll need to use regular diamonds after the PCD's.

 

[awakeinAZ]

Good luck!