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help wiring breaker box

rigsboo

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Oct 27, 2014
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ok so I have 4 wires black, black, green and black with a white stripe. I circled where I was told where the 2 solid blacks go, but which wire goes to where I put the arrow? and where does the other wire go?
heres the wire (if it matters)
200fepv.jpg

heres what I got
iqjxcg.jpg
 
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rigsboo

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I have it in and about a foot or 2 off the ground but I ran out so its not in anything going up the wall (about 3 ish feet)
 

Jagmandave

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Where are you located?

In general, I don't think you want a black wire connected to the red circled connector on the right- that should be for the neutral wire.....the other black wire would go to the connector marked with the blue arrow.

I assume the black wire with the white stripe is your neutral, so that would go to the red circled connector on the right.

I'm concerned now about where the other ends of these wires are landed.....
 
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rigsboo

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well the green is thick how would I put it in there? and I know BASIC like receptacles, lights, switches little stuff...if it was wired wrong then wouldn't it just flip the main breaker? my step dad had wired it to a breaker ill see how he wired it
 

Jagmandave

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Once again - where are you located?

Canada? US? Europe?

Yes, but someone told you to put a hot wire where the neutral should go......or else you misunderstood....that's what has me concerned.

There usually is a larger hole in that bus for the green wire (looks like the top screw in that bus) or you can get a connector made to attach it to the smaller hole.

With conductors that size you could have a fire if something is done wrong....electricity is nothing to trifle with....so be careful.

Better yet, get an electrician over to do the final hookup and check you out before you fire anything up.
 
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Charles (in GA)

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Like Jagmandave said, where are you located. Go to the top of the page and select User CP which is control panel, then select the top thing, Edit Your Details, and scroll down to your location and at least put your state or province if not a city.

As already noted, for the US, One black on the LH red circle, Other black on the Blue arrow, White stripe on the RH red circle and green on the bar on the bottom left.

They make lugs that can attach to the ground bar to accept your larger wire. Just go to the big box store when you go to get the additional conduit you need,, and look at the stuff on the hanging pegs. Get the same brand as the panel.

Now, show us the other end of the wire, where it is in the panel that supplies it.

Charles
 
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Jagmandave

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OK, but do put those wires in a conduit to the box before you energize them. And buy a clamp for the yellow Romex coming in the top of the box too.

If you're going to do it, do it right the first time.
 

doojus

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Are you just guessing what's on the other end? If not you should be able to tell what goes where. The two blacks go to the main lugs (you have one circled red and one with a blue arrow). The black with white strip should be neutral and that goes to the other one you have circled red. Then the green is ground and goes to the ground buss.


Not even gonna comment on how this install isn't up to code but this should get you going.
 
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bczygan

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I love it when the most basic questions are asked and fully answered.

I love that newbies are smart and assertive enough to ask.

I love it when knowledgeable members are smart and kind enough to share.

We all learn. The more the better.
 

bczygan

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When I first read the start of this thread, earlier today, I wanted to respond and help the OP. But frankly, I didn't have all the answers. I had to wait for qualified people to fill in the blanks.

And it is so good that they did so, along with some asides and humor. The OP learned something.

So did I.

This is good.

The only time I would facepalm, is if people are left in the dark.
 

lbmcse

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Just guessing here but it seems like the rack for the breakers should be turned 90 degrees in the enclosure. The reason your "green is too big" is because the wires are WAY oversized for this single phase breaker apparatus. "A" phase would be the left, and "B" phase would be the right sides of the bus, but that's not written in stone or required. The multiple land bar attached to the bus ***'y would be the neutral bar, and the similar bus located away from the ***'y attached to the enclosure would be the ground. Should there be electrical continuity between the ground and the neutral? I don't know, it depends on the scenario. Where's the first means of disconnect? Do you know what first means of disconnect means?

Really, not trying to be a **** here, but for the love of god, do some research and if you're going to send 240 volts into an enclosure, get an electrician. The conductors going into, and leaving the enclosure must be protected i.e. romex connectors.


well the green is thick how would I put it in there? and I know BASIC like receptacles, lights, switches little stuff...if it was wired wrong then wouldn't it just flip the main breaker? my step dad had wired it to a breaker ill see how he wired it

Is that a joke?

Yes, "TRIP" the main breaker is one possibility. The other is burn your house down. You don't get to choose, though. :shocking:
Facepalm indeed. I think the stat is 90 percent of house fires are electrical in cause. This is an accident waiting for a convenient venue.
 
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Norcal

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Just guessing here but it seems like the rack for the breakers should be turned 90 degrees in the enclosure. The reason your "green is too big" is because the wires are WAY oversized for this single phase breaker apparatus. "A" phase would be the left, and "B" phase would be the right sides of the bus, but that's not written in stone or required. The multiple land bar attached to the bus ***'y would be the neutral bar, and the similar bus located away from the ***'y attached to the enclosure would be the ground. Should there be electrical continuity between the ground and the neutral? I don't know, it depends on the scenario. Where's the first means of disconnect? Do you know what first means of disconnect means?

Really, not trying to be a **** here, but for the love of god, do some research and if you're going to send 240 volts into an enclosure, get an electrician. The conductors going into, and leaving the enclosure must be protected i.e. romex connectors.



Is that a joke?

Yes, "TRIP" the main breaker is one possibility. The other is burn your house down. You don't get to choose, though. :shocking:
Facepalm indeed. I think the stat is 90 percent of house fires are electrical in cause. This is an accident waiting for a convenient venue.

Romex® connectors are not going to fix that mess. :shocking:
 

alfredeneuman

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I love it when the most basic questions are asked and fully answered.
I love that newbies are smart and assertive enough to ask.

I don't love it when their first response to the need for conduit is "eh lol".

It would end up like this except for no connectors in the top:

hack4.jpg
 
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Zeke

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Aug 13, 2009
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Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
I have some advice for rigsboo. Get a book on electrical wiring, study the part about sub panels and then ask questions on forums like this. You haven't asked about a ground rod or the bonding screw on the neutral bus. This leads me to believe you are not aware of the requirements. More so than a risk of fire is a risk of electrocution. Not all mis-wired situations result in popping a breaker. And it only takes mililamps to stop your heart, or fibrillate it.

Just so you know that I'm serious, consider that household electrical current runs at 60 cycles per second. Your heart is on a 50 CPS system if you want to call it that. Think that one through for a moment.
 

alfredeneuman

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I gleaned the photo from Craigslist, supposedly from a licensed contractor.
The license number he gave was from a contractor that died in 1984.
I suppose it's good work for a dead guy :bounce:

I like Zeke's sound advice, and give it a :+1:
 
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wyliesdiesels

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Modesto, CA
Just guessing here but it seems like the rack for the breakers should be turned 90 degrees in the enclosure. The reason your "green is too big" is because the wires are WAY oversized for this single phase breaker apparatus. "A" phase would be the left, and "B" phase would be the right sides of the bus, but that's not written in stone or required. The multiple land bar attached to the bus ***'y would be the neutral bar, and the similar bus located away from the ***'y attached to the enclosure would be the ground. Should there be electrical continuity between the ground and the neutral? I don't know, it depends on the scenario. Where's the first means of disconnect? Do you know what first means of disconnect means?

Really, not trying to be a **** here, but for the love of god, do some research and if you're going to send 240 volts into an enclosure, get an electrician. The conductors going into, and leaving the enclosure must be protected i.e. romex connectors.

Is that a joke?

Yes, "TRIP" the main breaker is one possibility. The other is burn your house down. You don't get to choose, though. :shocking:
Facepalm indeed. I think the stat is 90 percent of house fires are electrical in cause. This is an accident waiting for a convenient venue.

the orientation of the panel depends on the way the breaker handles move. We dont know the brand so we cant say without more info.

The EGC aka ground is oversized because its the same size as the ungrounded conductors which is overkill and a waste of money. The OP obviously didnt know that the EGC is sized smaller than the ungrounded conductors. We dont know what size the feeder breaker is so we cant say what size the EGC should be. Also, u said "the wires are WAY oversized for this single phase breaker apparatus." How can u be certain of that when u don't know what size the feeder breaker is!

Lots of info missing from the OP!

As far as neutral and ground bar continuity goes: His 4-wire feeder tells us the answer. NO there shouldnt be any continuity between neutral and ground because A) its a 4-wire feed and B) a new circuit. If it was an existing panel and feeder, then it could be 3-wire and thus have a bonded neutral IF this is in a detached structure with NO parrallel metalic pathways! Again, we really need more info here!!!

OP:

Is this in a detached structure? If so did u put in ground rods?

Is the bonding screw removed from the neutral bar(I dont see a green screw)?

What size is the feeder breaker?

What size wire did u use? Looks like #6 THWN?

What brand of panel is this?

And now u all know why i said *facepalm* above!!
 
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lbmcse

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Apr 22, 2013
Messages
30
wyliediesels, lots of good points. I get the feeling that the 4 wire feed is coincidental or arbitrary as in "he had it there." He stated that "he ran out" so I took it as meaning it was used because he had it.

As you said, there are too many unknowns. Most of them appear to be by the OP.

Norcal, amen to that. The mention of Romex connectors are like being overly concerned with the drapes on the Titanic.

Zeke, your advice makes sense; but I'd feel best if the OP just got an electrician to make this happen. If for no other reason than to shift liability. . .

I enjoy this forum very much, but the electrical sub-forum makes me a bit uneasy. I understand this is the interweb, and all advice is to be taken with a grain of salt. . . . Those WITH experience and know-how KNOW BEST that this can't be conveyed to one WITHOUT. I cringe when I imagine how many well-intentioned folks with zero electrical experience have caused major damage or injury by doing their best to follow the advice given here.

Building a table or running irrigation to your garden is one thing. Doing electrical work is a different animal. Screw that up and you could be dead faster than you can say, "Hey man, watch this!"
 
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