Help! Wiring Keypad and Exit Button to Drop Bolt Door Locks

[freudianfloyd]

I need help from those who are smarter than me but can dumb this down to a first graders level. I used to be able to do way more complicated things than this, but I honestly think I am losing it.

I am trying to hook up a drop bolt lock on my office/gun room door so the little ones can't easily get in, and so I don't have to carry a key with me to lock it everytime I enter.

I have the power supply hooked up in the basement, I also have the wires running up into the wall and the key pad and exit button boxes installed. I have also installed the drop bolt solenoids into the door frame. The last thing I need to do is connect it all together, but for some reason it just isn't as clear as I hoped it would be. I don't currently have a battery back up and want it wired so the drop bolts release if the power goes out, that way I can't get locked in my office.

This is the equipment I have, and the wiring diagrams for each. Can somebody please break it down for me on exactly which wire connects to where?

Power Supply

Keypad


Solenoid


Exit Button


Now I know to some of you this is easy, but for some reason, none of the diagrams show how to hook this up exactly like I need to, and I am just getting more and more frustrated.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[walta]

When the bolt is unpowered will the bolt go to the locked or to the unlocked position?

The first drawing makes it look like unlocked.

The second and third drawing make it look like locked.





Walta

 

[freudianfloyd]

When the bolt is unpowered will the bolt go to the locked or to the unlocked position?

The first drawing makes it look like unlocked.

The second and third drawing make it look like locked.





Walta

Unlocked

 

[walta]

Do you have the HBK-P01 power supply shown in the first diagram?



Walta

 

[freudianfloyd]

Do you have the HBK-P01 power supply shown in the first diagram?



Walta

Yes

 

[walta]

Black to COM
Red to NC

If you do not get the door closed before the timer runs out and the bolt drops will it stop the door from closing?

Walta

 

[freudianfloyd]

Black to COM
Red to NC

If you do not get the door closed before the timer runs out and the bolt drops will it stop the door from closing?

Walta

There is a magnetic plate mounted at the top of the door. The bolt will not drop unless it senses this plate, which can only happen if the door is closed. Otherwise the bolt will not drop.

 

[walta]

When I watch a movie and the hero pops the cover off the security key pad and touches 2 wires together and the door opens. I laugh and say to myself no one would build a system so stupid that that would work. It seems I was total wrong as this one looks to be that dumb.

Walta

 

[walta]

There is a magnetic plate mounted at the top of the door. The bolt will not drop unless it senses this plate, which can only happen if the door is closed. Otherwise the bolt will not drop.

I do not see any feedback wiring in the diagram.

Maybe they could monitor the current and tell but with the bolt and magnet connected to the same terminals seems unlikely.

Why do you want both the bolt and the magnet?



Walta

 

[freudianfloyd]

When I watch a movie and the hero pops the cover off the security key pad and touches 2 wires together and the door opens. I laugh and say to myself no one would build a system so stupid that that would work. It seems I was total wrong as this one looks to be that dumb.

Walta

True, but if you put the power supply in a locked box, it helps prevent that. Mine is hidden. The keypad itself has an alarm if tampered with. Obviously any system can be bypassed, and this is more to keep kids out, and is used on an interior door.

 

[freudianfloyd]

I do not see any feedback wiring in the diagram.

Maybe they could monitor the current and tell but with the bolt and magnet connected to the same terminals seems unlikely.

Why do you want both the bolt and the magnet?



Walta

I do not want the magnet. I only have a drop bolt lock.

Edit...sorry I thought you were talking about a magnetic lock.

 

[freudianfloyd]

The magnet is in the counterplate which gets attached at the top of the door.

 

[walta]

There is a magnetic plate mounted at the top of the door. The bolt will not drop unless it senses this plate, which can only happen if the door is closed. Otherwise the bolt will not drop.

I got confused when you said “magnetic plate” I thought about the door holder magnet.

You also need a magnetic switch in the circuit to keep the bolt retracted when the door is open.

This wire is not shown in the diagram but the switch is built into the bolt. You will need to connect the Yellow wire to the open connection of the power supply.

Walta

 

[pembol]

I don't know how committed you are to this setup, or if there are special requirements - but it seems like a very complicated and somewhat insecure way to implement something that basically any of the current generations of smart locks could do very easily. If the door or doors have the ability to add a deadbolt, or has a standard knob lock, you can add a mart lock + keypad in about 20 minutes:

 

[freudianfloyd]

I don't know how committed you are to this setup, or if there are special requirements - but it seems like a very complicated and somewhat insecure way to implement something that basically any of the current generations of smart locks could do very easily. If the door or doors have the ability to add a deadbolt, or has a standard knob lock, you can add a mart lock + keypad in about 20 minutes:

I looked into those, but being these are French doors, they don't lock into each other without some type of bolt into the floor.

Plus I always thought it would be cool to have a hidden keypad to get into my gun room.

 

[Chuckster in NJ]

Hopefully this will be interconnected to the fire alarm system to de-activate on alarm.

 

[Innovate1]

You have multiple units with overlapping functions. It looks like the easiest way to do it is use the keypad and bolt to be "dumb" units just doing a single thing. Use the first diagram. Then in the keypad hookup just use the NO outputs and use the NO terminals of the push button hooking them both up as shown on the power supply diagram. Ignore all the other connections on the keypad. You could hook the magnetic door switch to the white and blue of the bolt or in parallel with the keypad and exit button to the power supply - either looks like it would work but bolt needs closed switch when door closed and power supply needs open when door closed. Then wire power supply NC contacts where "controller" is shown in deadbolt diagram. This output provides no power - it's just a contact closure so you will need to use the +12 and gnd terminals of the power supply as the power supply shown in the deadbolt diagram.

 

[freudianfloyd]

You have multiple units with overlapping functions. It looks like the easiest way to do it is use the keypad and bolt to be "dumb" units just doing a single thing. Use the first diagram. Then in the keypad hookup just use the NO outputs and use the NO terminals of the push button hooking them both up as shown on the power supply diagram. Ignore all the other connections on the keypad. You could hook the magnetic door switch to the white and blue of the bolt or in parallel with the keypad and exit button to the power supply - either looks like it would work but bolt needs closed switch when door closed and power supply needs open when door closed. Then wire power supply NC contacts where "controller" is shown in deadbolt diagram. This output provides no power - it's just a contact closure so you will need to use the +12 and gnd terminals of the power supply as the power supply shown in the deadbolt diagram.

Thank you

 

[freudianfloyd]

You have multiple units with overlapping functions. It looks like the easiest way to do it is use the keypad and bolt to be "dumb" units just doing a single thing. Use the first diagram. Then in the keypad hookup just use the NO outputs and use the NO terminals of the push button hooking them both up as shown on the power supply diagram. Ignore all the other connections on the keypad. You could hook the magnetic door switch to the white and blue of the bolt or in parallel with the keypad and exit button to the power supply - either looks like it would work but bolt needs closed switch when door closed and power supply needs open when door closed. Then wire power supply NC contacts where "controller" is shown in deadbolt diagram. This output provides no power - it's just a contact closure so you will need to use the +12 and gnd terminals of the power supply as the power supply shown in the deadbolt diagram.

Well I've tried this multiple times in multiple different ways, and I am just too damn dumb to figure it out. It actually worries me because a few years ago this would not have been so confusing.

I appreciate the help, but I think I need it dumbed down even more. The problem with the first wiring diagram is it does not tell you which output on the keypad connects to the Push terminal. So if you could dumb down to a crayon drawing level:

+12V from the power supply goes to the 12-24v (+) terminal on the keypad?
GND from the power supply goes to the AC/DC(-) terminal on the keypad and one connection from the Exit Button?
Push from the power supply goes ________________ and the other connection from the Exit Button?
Red Wire from Solenoid goes to _____________________?
Black wire from the Solenoid goes to _________________?
Yellow wire from the Solenoid goes to ________________?
I do not have a Magnetic Signal as far as I know. So do I use the blue and white wires from the solenoids? If so?
Blue wire from Solenoid goes to ____________________?
White wire from Solenoid goes to ___________________?

Am I missing anything? Again, thank you for your help.

 

[Innovate1]

Well I've tried this multiple times in multiple different ways, and I am just too damn dumb to figure it out. It actually worries me because a few years ago this would not have been so confusing.

I appreciate the help, but I think I need it dumbed down even more. The problem with the first wiring diagram is it does not tell you which output on the keypad connects to the Push terminal. So if you could dumb down to a crayon drawing level:

+12V from the power supply goes to the 12-24v (+) terminal on the keypad? Yes
GND from the power supply goes to the AC/DC(-) terminal on the keypad and green wire the Exit Button? Yes
Push from the power supply goes _NO of keypad____ and the other green wire from the Exit Button? Yes
Red Wire from Solenoid goes to ___NO on pwr supply__________________?
Black wire from the Solenoid goes to ___GND on pwr supply______________?
Yellow wire from the Solenoid goes to ___nothing_____________?
I do not have a Magnetic Signal as far as I know. So do I use the blue and white wires from the solenoids? If so?
Blue wire from Solenoid goes to ____________________?
White wire from Solenoid goes to ___________________?

blue and white could be used for the magnetic switch that detects door is closed (if you have one). Otherwise leave disconnected. Even if you have this switch you could get the rest working first and then add the door switch.
Connect COM to +12V on pwr supply.

Am I missing anything? Again, thank you for your help.

The diagrams for the door bolt aren't consistent. The upper left diagram show 12V always applied and the keypad or exit switch triggering the yellow wire. The lower right circuit shows them interrupting the +12V line. Maybe either way will work. You may need to try both ways. What I wrote above interrupts power as shown in the lower right diagram.

Think I got that right. No guarantees...

 

[freudianfloyd]

Yesterday, all of my old wiring knowledge came back to me and made sense. My wife thinks I was just tired the past few days as I was starting this in the evening after working all day and just could not concentrate on it. Yesterday I started mid-day.

I used the keypad for the majority of the connections and only used the power supply for the main power coming into the keypad. This seemed to work the best. I also only used the power and ground connections on the solenoids, the rest were unneeded.

The setup now functions flawlessly, all the wires are hidden, and it is exactly how I wanted it. The doors lock instantly when closed, and open when a code is entered or a button inside the room is pressed just like I hoped.

Thanks again to those that tried to help me figure this system out.

 

[AffableCurmudgeon]

Kids will learn very quickly that that in order to gain entry, all they have to do is to flip the breaker. Kids are very smart.
May want to rethink this approach.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

There is a magnetic plate mounted at the top of the door. The bolt will not drop unless it senses this plate, which can only happen if the door is closed. Otherwise the bolt will not drop.

Does the drop bolt have fail-safe and fail-secure options? If not then it would probably be fail-secure and it would need electricity to hold it open/up in the unlocked position since its a drop bolt. Therefore if you lose electricity you will be locked in the room.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

When I watch a movie and the hero pops the cover off the security key pad and touches 2 wires together and the door opens. I laugh and say to myself no one would build a system so stupid that that would work. It seems I was total wrong as this one looks to be that dumb.

Walta

All access control systems are like that

If one can find the grnd, cmn, NC NO wires that connect to the lock, they can open the lock.

 

[walta]

Push from the power supply goes _Yellow wire of the lock bolt__ and the other connection from the Exit Button?
Red Wire from Solenoid goes to __NC terminal of Power supply_?
Black wire from the Solenoid goes to _ COM terminal of Power supply_?
Yellow wire from the Solenoid goes to _ Push terminal of Power supply_?
I do not have a Magnetic Signal as far as I know. So do I use the blue and white wires from the solenoids? If so?
Blue wire from Solenoid goes to _Not Used_?
White wire from Solenoid goes to __Not Used_?

Walta

 

[walta]

All access control systems are like that

If one can find the grnd, cmn, NC NO wires that connect to the lock, they can open the lock.

Not all of them just the low cost ones.





Walta

 

[wyliesdiesels]

.

 

[freudianfloyd]

Kids will learn very quickly that that in order to gain entry, all they have to do is to flip the breaker. Kids are very smart.
May want to rethink this approach.

I'm not worried about that. My kids aren't actively trying to get in this room. Most of them are old enough that if they wanted to use a gun, I would hand it to them and tell them to be careful. The ones I am more concerned about are the foster kids we get in here every now and then.

Also, with a battery backup which will be coming in the near future, flipping the breaker isn't going to let them in.

 

[freudianfloyd]

Push from the power supply goes _Yellow wire of the lock bolt__ and the other connection from the Exit Button?
Red Wire from Solenoid goes to __NC terminal of Power supply_?
Black wire from the Solenoid goes to _ COM terminal of Power supply_?
Yellow wire from the Solenoid goes to _ Push terminal of Power supply_?
I do not have a Magnetic Signal as far as I know. So do I use the blue and white wires from the solenoids? If so?
Blue wire from Solenoid goes to _Not Used_?
White wire from Solenoid goes to __Not Used_?

Walta

Thank you for the help, but I was able to get it wired up and working yesterday.

 

[AffableCurmudgeon]

I am trying to hook up a drop bolt lock on my office/gun room door so the little ones can't easily get in

My kids aren't actively trying to get in this room.

Glad you got it figured out. I said what I said about your kids being able to figure out how to get in the room, because of what you said in your original post (quoted above, unless, by little ones you meant midgets in general).

In any event, glad it works for you. As a gun owner, I lock my guns securely without giving anyone of any age or size access to them.