Help wiring up a vac relay

[pblanton]

I'm installing a vac (modified from a dust collector) in my shop. I am plumbing the vac so that I have hose outlets in a number of locations in the shop. Sort of like a whole house vac.

What I need help with, is wiring up a relay like this one...

Honeywell R8285A1048 Control Center Relay

Or.. if that's not the right one, then I could use some pointers in that direction too.

I am fabricating some hose ports, like these from a whole house vac...

except mine are for three inch hoses I'm making, and instead of the metal contacts that start the vac when the hose is inserted, I am putting in micro switches that contact when the port door is opened.

What I need help with is how to wire up the power to the dust collector / vac so that it starts when a micro switch is closed. Here's another diagram, except imagine a dust collector instead of a whole house vac. Whole house vacs are already wired for remote start, but the dust collector isn't.

Thanks!

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Are you wanting to use the relay to switch the motor load or does the dust collector already have a starter?

Whats the HP rating on the collector motor?

Is the dust collector 120v or 240v?

That is the wrong relay BTW.

 

[pblanton]

@WyliesDiesels I edited the original post. I now think I have the right relay.

I have two dust collectors and they both have 110V, 3/4 HP Baldor electric motors. They were each plugged into a separate switched outlet before so they have a 110V plug on the end of a power cord.

I'll only be using one of the dust collectors as the vac but they are both the same.

I want to provide a 110V 15Amp or 20Amp circuit for the vac and control the switching on with three (maybe more later) micro switches. Only one vac port will be used at a time.

 

[hichamaziz]

thank you for thread

 

[matt_i]

I was a bit confused by Amazon but its an integrated 24vac transformer and relay package.

Which ultimately is very important as if its 24vdc or 24vac then you'd need a power supply or an HVAC transformer. I put in 240vac for the power side of your setup but it can easily be 120vac and work the same.

Anyway, here's how I would wire it, we are zooming thru ladder logic 101...use micro-switches wired in parallel to energize the coil of the relay and use the heavy-duty contacts of the relay to switch the large current/high energy that starts the motor. The parallel arrangement means any switch can start the motor.



I would try for a 15A "ice cube" relay over that thing from Amazon, it will probably be 1/3 of the price...it has to match whatever coil voltage you choose.

 

[Stuff]

The Honeywell fan control relay is a nice solution in that it mounts to a 4x4 electrical box giving a clean and safe installation.
The specs on the R8285A1048 mentioned above show contacts rated for 12amps full load (60 LRA) at 120v and good for a 3/4 HP motor.

 

[matt_i]

Here's an ice cube relay mounted inside a 4x4x2-1/8" square box. No external wiring.

 

[Stuff]

Here's an ice cube relay mounted inside a 4x4x2-1/8" square box. No external wiring.

I don't think that would pass in most places.
You still need a transformer. Also, how do the low voltage wires leave the box? If inside they need to be considered class 1 which has its own issues.

 

[matt_i]

You bring up good points about whether to enclose this, its out in the open on the 24vac side, one box for 120vac one box for 24vac, etc. The 24vac could run behind drywall, thru the ceiling, etc, 2conductor 18ga security system wire would probably work just great. It would probably be a good idea to put in a glass fuse on the 24vac side in case the secondary terminals got shorted somehow. If you put it in the attic then very few would ever see it. So many choices.

 

[Stuff]

What others have done is put everything in a control box that you can close the cover.

Since this is a shop (dusty) the Honeywell control center relay might not be good as the relay is partially exposed.

I like keeping things simple so other option would be Aube rc840t-120 - has enclosed built-in transformer and relay. It mounts through the hole of an electrical box keeping the line side wires inside the box with the 24vac outside. Could also be mounted on the dust collector's control box. Rated for .8 HP load. Similar to this controlling an outlet: https://www.doityourself.com/forum/...6-control-window-ac-unit-nest-thermostat.html

Yes, lots of choices.

 

[ToecuttersZ1R]

The Aube rc840t-120 may not be suitable for the amp draw of the motor. https://customer.honeywell.com/resources/Techlit/TechLitDocuments/69-0000s/69-2562EF.pdf

I would use these knock out mounted devices.
Also, did you consider useing off/on switches instead of micro switchs at each port?
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Functional-Devices-RIB2401B-Enclosed-Relay-20-Amp-SPDT-with-24-VAC-DC-120-VAC-Coil
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Functional-Devices-TR50VA001-Transformer-Foot-Single-Threaded-Hub-Mount-50VA-120-to-24-Vac
Wired this way.

 

[6PTsocket]

What others have done is put everything in a control box that you can close the cover.

Since this is a shop (dusty) the Honeywell control center relay might not be good as the relay is partially exposed.

I like keeping things simple so other option would be Aube rc840t-120 - has enclosed built-in transformer and relay. It mounts through the hole of an electrical box keeping the line side wires inside the box with the 24vac outside. Could also be mounted on the dust collector's control box. Rated for .8 HP load. Similar to this controlling an outlet: https://www.doityourself.com/forum/...6-control-window-ac-unit-nest-thermostat.html

Yes, lots of choices.

We had lots of multi pole (2 or 3 ) solid state relays controlling motors where I worked. In some cases, a separate relay for each pole. A little heat sinking required but immune to dust. The "coil" input is usually 2 to 32 volts DC at a few milliamps. 25 amp, 40 amp load, no problem. They are a available. All the surge protection is built in. Wires just like a mechanical relay.

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