Help! with a botched towel rack mounting job

[Bricago]

I apologize if I've posted this in the wrong place. I do handyman work around town, and I was unable to rectify a botched bathroom towel rack installation for a client. The two mounting plates that the rack attaches to via set screws were mounted too close together by about 3/8". Photo one shows the left mount, photo two the right mount. I held the rack against the mounting plates so you can see how it's a little wider than the distance separating the plates. (Sorry, pics one and two appear rotated 90 deg CCW.) The plates are adjustable left to right via oval screw holes, but only by about 1/4". They're in the max widest positions.

Photo three shows the holes drilled through the tile for the right mounting plate. There is no stud within a foot behind either of the plates, and the plates were secured with plastic wall anchors and #8 screws.

My questions are:

1. Given that the cover plates on the rack are only slightly larger than the mounting plates, is it possible to drill holes through the tile only about a 1/4" away from the current holes (so that the cover plates will conceal the old holes)?

2. What is the best way to anchor the mounting plates on tile with no studs in the vicinity?

3. Should the rack be positioned so that the set screws are on the top or the bottom?

Thank you for any help you can offer.

 

[altersaddle]

I'd be tempted to use a wood rasp or similar rough tool to make those holes wider (and move them to the right), then use toggle bolts to hold the anchors onto the drywall.

It would be better if at least one end captured a stud, although a towel rack doesn't make a great handrail.

The set screws should be on the bottom.

 

[balane]

Can you leave the mounts where they are and cut 3/8" off the bar?

 

[xyster101]

Grind 3/16 off the inside edge of each wall bracket as it is only supported from the top and bottom. Of you can i agree to cut bar a little.
Screws go on the bottom.
Studs are best there are anchors for tile. The little plastic spacers will work, just tell them not to hang on it.

 

[gungatim]

agree with the others, easiest thing to do is slice a little bit off the bar so it fits the existing mounts. if you have an edge sander it would be quick work.

last time I had to fix a similar install mistake, I ended up cutting out the drywall, notching the studs, and putting in a piece of plywood, then covering it back up with drywall. now any towel bar will have a solid place to mount. ofcourse I didn't have tile to deal with though...builders need to think about that when the frame out the bathrooms...

 

[toplessHO]

agree on cutting the bar to fix
use epoxy to set some threaded inserts like mollys or similar where the hole has been hogged out.

 

[mmack66]

Who the heck decided to mount it in the grout line?

 

[pepi]

Who the heck decided to mount it in the grout line?

My thought also, first class ghetto install, want to bet the guy did not have a level?

 

[Kevin54]

If it were me, I would find some sort of a backing plate that is decorative, long, but narrow. Polished stainless maybe, or some satin brushed stainless. Find the studs. This will determine where you want to mount the towel bar. Now cut the back plate long enough to cover the old holes. Mount the plate and the towel rack together.

If that doesn't make sense, I can give you a sketch.

 

[Kevin54]

Here is a quick pic

 

[Bricago]

Thank you for the replies and suggestions. I don't think cutting the bar is an option, because it has four individual bars that would have to be cut at exactly the same lengths. For reference, it's from Restoration Hardware called "Modern Train Rack," (perfect, right?)

About the grout line mounting, is that a no-no? I'm guessing that the installer (again, not me) thought it would be easier to drill into grout rather than tile, then discovered that the lip of the plastic wall anchor got hung up on the edges of the tile, so he made an attempt at countersinking the hole on the right. You can see it in pic 3.

If you were to drill into the face of the tile would you need to countersink the anchors to allow the anchor plates to lie flush? If so, how do you do that?

I like Kevin's backing plate solution for covering the holes. Thank you for the diagram.

 

[toplessHO]

only somewhat related to this but when drilling tile its best to drill thru the glazed part before you put the drill on hammer. Less chance of cracking it

 

[spike99250]

When drilling thru tile I always center punch the tile to crack the glazing and then hammer slowly thru. If using plastic anchors I just chisel off the lip that stands proud of the tile.

 

[larry_g]

Take a good look at how the end piece fits into the bar. It should just pull out allowing you to shorten the bar. Some of those have a bit of adjustment to them tho it looks like your at minimum and still need more.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Mr.N]

Thank you for the replies and suggestions. I don't think cutting the bar is an option. For reference, it's from Restoration Hardware called "Modern Train Rack," (perfect, right?)

Not following you at all...

Cutting the bar is your best option... Unless your wife folds the towels in such a way you have to have a longer bar. Then just get the tile job re-done.

 

[Beemer533]

I think this has been mentioned a couple of times, but pictures help;

Just trim as indicated on both sides with a Dremel, file, hacksaw whatever.. Should give just enough room.

 

[Kevin54]

I'll steal Beemer's pic because it was close, but by looking at the pic, just before you trim anything if you do trim it like Beemer shows, the setscrew goes underneath the rack and not on top. So make sure that if you trim as Beemer shows, you trim the correct end of the rack.

 

[Bricago]

Some of those have a bit of adjustment to them tho it looks like your at minimum and still need more.

That's it exactly.

Beemer, that's a great idea.

Kevin, thanks for the heads up on the set screw position.

 

[Beemer533]

I'll steal Beemer's pic because it was close, but by looking at the pic, just before you trim anything if you do trim it like Beemer shows, the setscrew goes underneath the rack and not on top. So make sure that if you trim as Beemer shows, you trim the correct end of the rack.

Kevin is correct and I also noticed that my picture cut out the view of the bar itself; make sure you trim the inside tabs, not the outside ones...

 

[sanddan]

Can you leave the mounts where they are and cut 3/8" off the bar?

Nice job of looking outside of the box!