kbeefy
Well-known member
We would always tell customers to get 100+ miles on them and come back for a balance. They seem to 'wear in' or 'round out'.
They would take a balance better after being run a bit.
Help with balancing 33” wheels
- Thread starter NotLeftHanded
- Start date
We would always tell customers to get 100+ miles on them and come back for a balance. They seem to 'wear in' or 'round out'.
They would take a balance better after being run a bit.
American Locomotive
Well-known member
I find it hard to believe it's that difficult to balance 33" tires - there are quite a few tucks and SUVs on the market now with that size tire available from the factory.
If I had to guess, it's probably more of an "Interco" problem. Every off-road vehicle I've been in with Interco tires has been an absolute dumpster fire of NVH and shaking. I don't think Interco has the engineering or manufacturing resources to consistently make a well-balanced tire, especially with the lug patterns they like to use.
If I had to guess, it's probably more of an "Interco" problem. Every off-road vehicle I've been in with Interco tires has been an absolute dumpster fire of NVH and shaking. I don't think Interco has the engineering or manufacturing resources to consistently make a well-balanced tire, especially with the lug patterns they like to use.
OP
NotLeftHanded
Active member
I heard the exact same thing about Interco but those issues were isolated to Thornbirds and Super Swampers… I went with their radial MT which is the Trxus model. It was between that and the Vortrac which is the older 16.5 BFG copy… The Trxus and Vortrac’s are really good tires. It just may be my noobness about balancing.
Luckily I’ve learned on this great forum that it’s ok to balance in a few different spots of the wheel as long as it’s not 180° out
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Milton Shaw
Well-known member
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- Feb 11, 2011
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Nobody else has suggest this but all it takes is filling up with air somewhere they don't drain the compressor tank often enough. Years ago when I had tires that changed balance, I would break them down and would find different amounts of water in them. I do agree with re-clocking the wheel to see if you can reduce the needed weight. I also would re-clocking to make the tire/wheel assembly rounder. Use chalk on the inside of the wheel, then the outside and see if it could be improved. One extra curb hit and a lot of wheels are never really straight and round any more.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
This is key, you're not gonna get perfection with tractor tires. The idea that weights will only be in one location is incorrect, despite a lot of internet conjecture to the contrary. Much like the misnomer that a balanced wheel won't vibrate.
I won't put more than 1.50 oz on at a time MAX. IME no balancer can correctly detect where to stick weight much higher than that. At least none of the units I've used. 1.5oz in the area it wants all the weight, respin, keep going in similar increments. Remember the balancer wants X weight in position Y. But you can't stick 8oz in a 1 inch area, so it gets spread out, perverting the effective location of the mass. Which throws the entire measurement off.
We don't bother with such tires anymore, but these rules hold true for tire balancing in general.
csp
Well-known member
Typical Interco tires, no matter which variation it is. Mine would be flat spotted sitting for two days.
OP
NotLeftHanded
Active member
A few thoughts:
1. Calibration is not what most people think. Calibration has nothing to do with the machine identifying where an imbalance is; it only serves to calibrate the amplitude of the imbalance. Simply put, it better allows the machine to estimate if that amplitude is solved by .25, .50, etc.
If it over estimates you'll get a 180 degree on respin, if it underestimates you'll get an ask for an increased amount in the same spot. But never, will you get a request anywhere other than those two spots.
2. Balancing is not about reaching 0oz, its about repeatability (in reaching 0oz). You can have the assembly mismounted, balance to 0oz and then when you remount and spin get a weight request again.
This is indicative of poor wheel assembly centering (cone, offset rim bore X axis, off axis bore to cone).
Do you have pin plates?
3. In my assortment of collets, and cones, I often have 3-4 that fit "well" in any particular rim, but usually only 1 of them produces repeatability when dismounted, rotated, remounted and spun again.
Its rarely anything to do with who or where the cone was made and more to do with the shape or where it grabs relative to the rim bore.
1. Calibration is not what most people think. Calibration has nothing to do with the machine identifying where an imbalance is; it only serves to calibrate the amplitude of the imbalance. Simply put, it better allows the machine to estimate if that amplitude is solved by .25, .50, etc.
If it over estimates you'll get a 180 degree on respin, if it underestimates you'll get an ask for an increased amount in the same spot. But never, will you get a request anywhere other than those two spots.
2. Balancing is not about reaching 0oz, its about repeatability (in reaching 0oz). You can have the assembly mismounted, balance to 0oz and then when you remount and spin get a weight request again.
This is indicative of poor wheel assembly centering (cone, offset rim bore X axis, off axis bore to cone).
Do you have pin plates?
3. In my assortment of collets, and cones, I often have 3-4 that fit "well" in any particular rim, but usually only 1 of them produces repeatability when dismounted, rotated, remounted and spun again.
Its rarely anything to do with who or where the cone was made and more to do with the shape or where it grabs relative to the rim bore.
OP
NotLeftHanded
Active member
I have to agree with you on the cones. I have eBay China ones and they never seem to allow the hub bore of the wheel to sit properly. I went digging on eBay and found a new old stock Coats cone. When I got it I could immediately tell that this was a superior cone and It allowed my whee to spin dead straight on my balancer (DSP9002-D)
Not exactly; what I meant was cheap or expensive doesn't seem to mean as much as the selection at hand when balancing.
Do you have pin plates though? Because ideally, for what you're trying to balancing, you'll want pin plates.
Pin Plate and Collet Set for Wheel Balancer
Pin Plate and Collet Set for Wheel Balancer . Get premium balancing tools at MT-RSR. Free shipping on orders $75+.
mt-rsr.com
Or this one without the collets:
40mm Wheel Balancer Flange Plate Kit
40mm Wheel Balancer Flange Plate Kit . Get premium balancing tools at MT-RSR. Free shipping on orders $75+.
mt-rsr.com
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NotLeftHanded
Active member
I do not have those pin plates but have heard that they’re the most precise vs cones and colletsNot exactly; what I meant was cheap or expensive doesn't seem to mean as much as the selection at hand when balancing.
Do you have pin plates though? Because ideally, for what you're trying to balancing, you'll want pin plates.
Pin Plate and Collet Set for Wheel Balancer
Pin Plate and Collet Set for Wheel Balancer . Get premium balancing tools at MT-RSR. Free shipping on orders $75+.
Or this one without the collets:
40mm Wheel Balancer Flange Plate Kit
40mm Wheel Balancer Flange Plate Kit . Get premium balancing tools at MT-RSR. Free shipping on orders $75+.
Getting a set was a game changer in repeatability.
No affiliation with MTRSR but their kit is at least 50% the price of others and Made in USA; nothing but good things to report.
If cash is tight, you might want to look at just grabbing the exact plate/pins you need and build from there.
OP
NotLeftHanded
Active member
Thanks for the tip!! Are you by chance running those exact plates as well?
Yes, those exact plates.
OP
NotLeftHanded
Active member
Thanks Noid!
OP
NotLeftHanded
Active member
Forgot to ask, the pins in the kit… are they good for only conical style lug nuts? I have a few Ford wheels that have the flat seat washer
OP
NotLeftHanded
Active member
You da man
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NotLeftHanded
Active member
redwrench60
Well-known member
It’ll change at the next red light.
OP
NotLeftHanded
Active member
Have had them on for about 5000 miles now and they’re great. Throughout this thread people read Interco and assumed they’re “Super Swampers”. I don’t know how many times I said that they’re TRXUS M/T tires that are RADIAL and not BIAS PLY like Super Swampers are.
redwrench60
Well-known member
We’re just bustin balls a little Lefty. I’m sure you’re figuring out big shoes can be finicky. I got a set of 33” 10 ply Nitto Terra Grapplers on my truck that do pretty well for what they are.
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NotLeftHanded
Active member
I love Nitto tires. They behave so well and last a long time. If I had 16’s instead of 16.5’s I would got with Nitto Mud Grapplers
Did they fit any tighter on the shaft? Or do you think it was just the machining of the tapered portion being out of whack?
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NotLeftHanded
Active member
I’m glad you asked this question! I connected a magnetic base dial indicator to the balancer where it can reach the cone and spun the machine with just the cone and wing nut itself. The China cones were almost 0.005” thou off on every spin. The Coats brand cones didn’t even move the dial indicator needle at all, if any. They were machined very precisely! As for tightening, I did some trial and error with setting up cones differently on the wheels and I found that on the heavier 33’s like mine, it was most beneficial to place the cone in front of the wheel while adding a second smaller cone in front of that one. I spun them around 4-5 times each wheel to make sure the readings weren’t changing and I noticed that on the 4th or 5th spin the wing nut would loosen a hair (and I mean a hair) and would give me a different reading. Hunter balancers are VERY sensitive to the slightest increment... I’m 6’0 200lbs and I put full body weight and tightened the wing nut but it still managed to get a hair loose..
So, I would just tighten the wing nut on the 3rd spin and they were all consistent. The worst wheel wanted 8.25oz. I deflated the tire and spun it 180° and ended up with a reading of 6.25oz which was a whole helluva lot better. The best wheel was only 1.50oz out. I loosened that wheel and retightened it to make sure I didn’t just get lucky but the spins after that were consistent at 1.50oz out. I also bought 3M aluminum foil tape and taped the weights down just in case they ever wanted to fall off. I’m sure passenger wheels will be a walk in the park. Truck tires are a different animal.
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I will have to check the runout on mine to see what they are. Did you buy all new ones or just a specific one for those wheels?
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NotLeftHanded
Active member
I bought just 2 Coats cones that work on my vehicles for now only because I am going to buy the finger plate/collet set from MT-RSR. That is the most precise way of balancing from what I’ve learned.