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Help with capacitor selection.

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Grant Gunderson

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Ok, Time for a bit of a recap. When I purchased this 10EE, it Legitimately had a rats nest in the Motor / Generator.
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The rodent had literally eaten the insulations on the wire leads for the motor / Generator.
So I completely replaced all of the wiring for the Motor / Generator, the Exciter and the DC motor and did a full rebuild on all of it in my home garage.
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Since I already had the 3Phase AC motor apart, I figured it only made since to split the internal star point apart, and bring those wire leads out, so instead of having a 9 lead motor (common) I know have a 12 lead motor. This put me in an interesting position, to do a Steelman method of converting the lathe from #phase to single phase, or allowed me to do a Low-voltgage conversion using a a Starting circuit. Turns out both methods use the same starting circuit.
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The main difference is the Steelman method specs out a 60uF run capacitor, and the Low Voltage method (common on a rotor phase convertor) uses a 100 uF run capacitor.
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The smaller 60uF run cap has a 8mm mounting thread, where as the larger 100uF cap uses 12mm. So I used an 8 to 12mm thread adapter, so I can easily interchange both caps, to test both methods.

To better facilitate testing both methods and taken measurements, I set up a third terminal strip and ran jumper wires.
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I then set up two multi meters, one is reading voltage across the coil of the relay that takes the start cap out of the run circuit. The second is measuring resistance across the relays's switched contacts.
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The idea is when the motor comes up to speed, the relay should drop the start cap out of the circuit and the reistance across the relay's switched contacts should read as an open circuit. Until it comes up to speed it should show some resistance.

It's now time to fire up the lathe for a test.
It F'n works! It fired right up on first try!
As you can see in the video the Relay's switch opens up very quickly as the motor comes up to full speed almost instantly. Note the 400+V across the relay's coil. This is proving to me the original Supco APR5 relay recommend for the Steelman method is undersized, as that relay is only rated for 250V.

To better evaluate the two methods of converting the 3Phase motor to single phase I purchased a Picoscope 2204A Oscilloscope. The nice thing about this unit is it works with both PC's and Mac's which is goos as I only run Apple computers and have for the last 20+ years. It also has some pretty sophisticated software, that I have a lot to learn about.
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Here is the test setup
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Cal Haines over on Practical Machinist, came up with a series of test perimeters for me to evaluate, consisting of 8 runs on the Steelman conversion and 11 run on the Low-Voltage singe phase conversion setup. Since the scope only has two Chanels, we are leaving the first challenge to take the T1 voltages, and then using the second Chanel to do the other measurements, this way we can sue the T1 channel as a reference to compare each. This will allow us to look as each set of of windings in the motor separately for both voltage and amperage measurements.

For example, here is an overlay of the voltages of the T1, T2 and T3 winding sets in the Steelman conversion. Hopefully I have the overlays properly aligned.
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Notice how much stronger the T3 set is. I think this makes sense as its in series while the T1 and T2 sets in the configuration have the motor coils in parallel.

I haven't used a scope since I had a few EE classes in college and thats 20+ years ago at this point, so I kinda fell like I am learning it all again from scratch. So always open to any insights.

I was also going to setup a set of 3 thermal couples to take measurements of how hot the motor windings got, but I totally forgot. So I will have to implement that in the next series of testing.
 
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Grant Gunderson

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I spent a few hours today verifying the data I collected with the scope this weekend, using my multimeters. I attempted to use the Thermocouple set I bought off of Amazon to also get some temp data from the M/G casing during these runs, but that was futile as the unit's auto off time is way too short.

First I read the voltage across the Start cap. I am getting 511V there.
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Next, I used both of my Fluke Multi Meters and my Klein Megger to verify the rest of the data collected with the scope.
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T1 to ground read 115VAC
T2 to ground read 115 VAC
T3 to ground read 503VAC
T1 to T2 read 241 V
T2 to T3 read 404.1V
T1-T3 read 299.8V
T1 43 Amps on immediate startup that quickly dropped down to 9.3 Amps.
T2 0.1Amps
T3 0.1 Amps

Terminal set #12~#3 (T1~T3) has the two coils in series instead of parallel and its connected to the start / run caps and it read 512VAC RMS

Terminal Set #7~#8 (T1~T2) has the two coils in Parallel and it read 241 VAC RMS

Terminal set #1~#2 (T1~T2) has the two coils in Parallel and it read also read 241 VAC RMS

Ok, next I checked the individual coil voltages.

Terminal #12~#3 contains coils #12-#9 and #3-#6
they read 255VAC and 256.9VAC

Terminal Set #7~#8 contains coils #7-#10 and #8-#11
they read 133.6V and 144.2VAC

Terminal set #1~#2 contains coils #1-#4 and #2-#5
they read 133.9V and 144.5V

Next, I started to run another set of test runs with the Oscilloscope. This time I set the height to +/- 500V and the time base to 2 ms/div wit the goal of capturing 1 full cycle. The scope has an auto trigger function that I was just starting to get figured out by run 4, that will allow us to look athlete the waveforms upon startup, and then the scope captures 64 consecutive waveforms, so we can also see how it looks once it stabelizes.

Here is a combined look of T1 (Yellow) T2 (RED) T3 (Blue) and Node 45 (Green) and Node 1011 (brown)
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Before I could finish this set of runs, I ran into some issues. Hitting the Stop button the lathe wouldn't turn off!!! I had to kill the power to it via the mains breaker. Looking at the Contractor, it was stuck closed! I popped it back open and tried another run. This time the lathe would turn off, but even when it was off, I was still showing voltages at the motor terminals! Humm. I go look at the main contactor
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And it was full stuck closed. Ok, this is no good and its a pretty major safety issue. Time to figure out what the hell is going on with it.

The front of the main contactor has a black bar that is held on by two screws.
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Ok, I think I have found the problem! Lets look at the contacts on the other side.
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Ok, two of the 4 sets are completely worn out, and apparently have started to weld themselves shut!
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A third set is not far behind, and the 4th set, look like they just need a good cleaning.

The contactor is a Cutler Hammer 9586 and is a Size 1 contactor.

Searching Ebay for a contacts for a 9586 gave me a ton of options but none looked correct. I then searched for a Cutler Hammer contacts #1 and found that a Cutler Hammer replacement set # 6-106 appears to be correct, so I ordered two full sets, so fingers crossed when they arrive they are correct. I dont think there is much left of the electronics of the lathe that I haven't rebuilt now!
 
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rlitman

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Yeah, those look pretty eroded. Probably beyond the point where you can file off the badness, and I too would just replace before filing.

I agree that visually the set #6 appears to be the right kit. The NOS ones I'm finding have silver alloy contacts that are tarnished, but a swipe with some scotchbrite will solve that.
 
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Grant Gunderson

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Joined
May 17, 2013
Messages
2,330
Location
Bellingham, WA
Yeah, those look pretty eroded. Probably beyond the point where you can file off the badness, and I too would just replace before filing.

I agree that visually the set #6 appears to be the right kit. The NOS ones I'm finding have silver alloy contacts that are tarnished, but a swipe with some scotchbrite will solve that.
I thought about filling them, so I could get back to testing, but two of the sets where so worn through, that if I tried filling them at all I'd be into the base metal. So for $60 shipped for two full sets, its best to just replace and they will last another 80 years.
I miss typed the amp readings in my previous post, so I edited it to fix it.

Terminal #12~#3 contains coils #12-#9 and #3-#6
they read 255VAC and 256.9VAC

T1 43 Amps on immediate startup that quickly dropped down to 9.3 Amps.
T2 0.1Amps
T3 0.1 Amps
I need to check the Amperage on each coil during the next round of testing.

This is concerning as each coil is only rated for Full load values at 220VAC and 6.5 Amps. Thoughts on how to lower the Voltage on T3?

Lowering the T3 value may not be needed, however as looking back over my notes in a previous post where I did the Steelman calculations, and re-readign the Steelman literature, I found this (specifically parts highlighted in red):

"The ampere reading on the input side (L1 & L2) of the H-A-S Static Converter will read as expected with any single phase equipment. That is, as the load increases, amperage will increase and both lines will be carrying the same amount of amperage. It is important to remember that these two lines will be carrying more amperage than the nameplate of a three phase motor will indicate. This is true because it will be carrying the same total power on two lines that it would be carrying on three lines when operating on three phase. The current required from single phase lines times 1.73 delivers the same power as three phase provided that the system efficiency and power factors are the same. For an H-A-S Static Converter-motor combination, the exact full load amperage taken from the single phase lines is calculated as follows:

(ConvertedMotorFLA=1.73PFH−A−S∗PF3Phase∗Eff3PhaseEffH−A−S∗FLA3Phase)

Where:

  • PFH−A−S= Power Factor of H-A-S Static Converter and motor combination
  • PF3Phase= Power Factor of H-A-S Static Converter and motor combination
  • Eff3Phase= Efficiency of three phase motor from nameplate or motor data
  • EffH−A−S= Efficiency of H-A-S Static Converter and motor combination
  • FLA3Phase= Three phase full load amps from motor nameplate
At full load conditions, it has been found that the power factor of the H-A-S Static Converter – motor combination is approximately .95 and its efficiency to be very nearly the same as when the motor is operated on three phase. The ratio of Eff3Phase/EffH-A-S then becomes unity and our equation simplifies as follows:

(ConvertedMotorFLA=1.73 /.95∗PF3Phase∗FLA3Phase=1.82∗PF3Phase∗FLA3Phase)

FLA3Phase for this motor is 13.2A

ConvertedMotorFLA=(1.73 /.95) x PF3Phase x 13.2

ConvertedMotorFLA= 1.82 x .95 x 13.2

ConvertedMotorFLA = 22.8 Amps!

The above relationship should be used to determine maximum L1 and L2 heater coil and fuse sizing.

At first thought, it would appear that this amperage is excessive; but it must be remembered that due to the winding connections, the I2R losses are spread out over all the motor windings.

Evidently, The T3 amperage may read higher than T1 amperage at no load or partial loads. This condition is normal and will not damage the motor or the converter. The T3 amperage will decrease as the load on the motor increases, while T1 and T2 amperages will increase as the motor approaches full load conditions. Although the actual amperages for L1 and L2 may be easily calculated as shown above, the amperage to use for the proper heater coil sizing for T3 is not so easily obtained. For practical purposes, however, the maximum T3 amperages should be calculated as follows:


T3 = .75 x FLA

So T3 = .75 x 22.8

t3 = 17.11


So based upon that info, I looked up the chart provided by Steelman and got the following:

Minium needed wire size for L1, L2, T1 is 10, for T2 it is 12 and for T3 it is 14. I used 10 for L1, L2 and T1 and then used 12 for T3.
So good to go there.

For the heater coil section the full load amperage is 22.8. I need to figure out what those Cutler Hammer #1375 heaters are actually rated at and confirm, they are adequate for this.

According to the Steelman chart, I should also add a heater to the T3 (starting circuit) with a value of 11.4 (thats a bit lower than the 17.11 I actually calculated) I will need to source one of these. I’ve never shopped for these before and seems like a big difference in prices on them. So could really use some advice on what to purchase.

I'll need a 30 amp breaker for the mains.

The overall input wattage (I2R) of the motor at full load when operated with an H-A-S Static Converter does not exceed the overall input wattage of the motor when operated on three phase. For this reason, at full load conditions, the motor will have the same approximate temperature rise as if operated on three phase power."
 
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