Help with Craftsman vintage circular saw Please

[blackhawkdriver]

Ok guys so I have my grandfathers old Craftsman circular saw that I haven't used in about 10 years. I was wondering if anyone could help find out some info about it and where I may be able to find some parts. The power cord is very frayed in several spots all the way through the insulation. Thats the main thing I need to replace. But I'm not sure where to get parts or if sears may carry them. Any help would be well appreciated because I would like to use it this weekend to build a workbench for my new garage. Here are some pics of the saw.

 

[jakemac]

My first stop would be SearPartsDirect then check out ereplacementparts.

You will need the model number for both sites.

Other than that, you can go to HD or Lowes and buy some SJ cable and a plug, just to get it going for now. (if the switch is still good)

My grandfather has a similar model. The thing always scared me. It's HEAVY and has two speeds - on and off . The switch actually *clicks* when you squeeze it.

EDIT -
I just checked, the parts aren't available, but a part from a similar model might be made to work. You'll have to do some research. For the most part, a cord is a cord. However, the cord relief may or may not fit without modification.

 

[sselander]

It looks like the 315 was made by Diehl Manufacturing.
Diehl in turn was acquired by Ryobi in 1988 and kept the 315 prefix

http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=1954

Looks like the last number is illegible 315.2778x

If you go to the Sears partsdirect website, there are 3 - 7 inch saws that start with that number:
Model 31527780
Model 31527781
Model 31527782

You can view an exploded diagram, very few parts are still available

 

[blackhawkdriver]

I guess I'll tear it apart and see what the insides look like as far as the cord go so I can see about figure out a replacement. This saw is exactly how you describe Jake. On and off, scared the **** outta me the first time I used it.

 

[zkling]

Shoot if all you need is a cord, go find one, don't bother trying to order from sears. When ever I come across a broken appliance with a good grounded cord I will take the cord for future use. Just for those occasions like this.

If you want to get real fancy, measure the AWG and OD of the cord you need, then go to the hardware store and buy a nice length of super flexable cord and a proper grounded Hubble plug.

 

[BFBOB]

I guess I'll tear it apart and see what the insides look like as far as the cord go so I can see about figure out a replacement. This saw is exactly how you describe Jake. On and off, scared the **** outta me the first time I used it.

WHAT???
You mean there are variable speed circular saws? Every one I've ever used was exactly like this one: on/off. Why would you even want variable speed?


HomeDepot has cords made just for this purpose. Molded plug, flying leads at the other end. 10' long, IIRC. Not particularly large, so it should fit in the existing strain relief boot.

 

[jakemac]

WHAT???
You mean there are variable speed circular saws? Every one I've ever used was exactly like this one: on/off. Why would you even want variable speed?

The comment was more in the line of a joke.

The switch on those old saws is "squeeze, squeeze, haard squeeeeeeze *CLICK*OFFANDRUNNING!!!!!!!!!!". It's scary as hell !! No finesse. Just be ready to go and hope you don't loose a limb.

 

[jimgreen]

Most have a soft start I think is what you are saying

 

[blackhawkdriver]

Ok so I opened it up and this is what I found so far



So as you can see it has two wires from the cord to the switch and a ground that was attached to the case. Then there are two wires from the switch into the case, presumably to the motor. My question is should the wires from the cord to the switch come out of the switch so I can replace the cord? I don't want to just yank them out because the switch is still good and that part is no longer carried anywhere so I don't want to damage it. Sorry if these are dumb questions but I am a complete noob when it comes to electrical in pretty much anything other than a helicopter.

 

[jakemac]

The wires going into the switch may be soldered to the switch board. You will likely have to take the switch apart to fix it the same as it was built.

However, there seems to be enough room in the handle to cut long leads coming out of the switch, then splice a new cord to the leads and seal each wire with shrink tube. Just try to keep the extra wire to a minimum, so you don't have to worry about pinching the wires when you put it back together. Or heat build up from extra trapped wire.

As long as the wire on the switch end is still ok, this should work.

 

[nine4gmc]

I can't tell from the pic if the wires come loose from the switch, check for screws on the switch that would hold the wires to contacts. If you don't see any way to disconnect them, I would cut them as long as possible from the switch to connect to the new lead. I use insulated crimp connectors inside tools/machines instead of twist caps for safety.