Help with cutting roof trim while still installed

[Colin Len]

Might be a bit strange of a question but I need to tackle this project tomorrow after work so that my painter can finish my trim this weekend and was hoping to get some help on a technique or tool to use.

I recently had the roof replaced and some fascia boards added to some of my eaves. I had some issues with the guy who did the fascia and parted ways with him prior to him finishing up the last details to tie the original decorative trim on the gable ends into the new fascia. I now need some help figuring out how best to finish this myself.



It's a little hard to tell in this pic but you can see the the gable end trim just stops abruptly where it overlaps with the new 6" fascia board. I have some extra trim which was removed during the roof/fascia project that I can use to finish off these ends. What I'd like to do is to use a small piece of the spare trim to put a 90 degree "turn" on the trim so that it turns and terminates into the fascia.

In the picture shown this should be pretty easy, just cut a piece and nail it in place at 90 degrees to the end of the trim that's already there. Unfortunately in some other areas the original trim is damaged on the end so I'd like to cut the damaged area off to create a nice clean line I can join to the trim piece I'll be adding. But how can I cut this trim when it's installed on the house? It's covered by edge metal from the roof and I'm not sure if that is easily pulled away or if there is a special tool that would make this easier. Hopefully that makes sense, I had some trouble figuring out how best to explain what I'm trying to do.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[bczygan]

Multitool!

 

[Colin Len]

OK, then I must be on the right track - you are talking about those oscillating multi-tools, right? That was the first thing that came to mind but I've never used one. And I guess I'd still just have to fight with getting under the edge metal or pulling it away to make room.

As much as I'd prefer not to spend any $$ I'm typically always looking for an excuse to add more tools to my arsenal

Any suggestions on what to buy? Corded? Cordless? Brand? Looks like Craftsman makes one which could be a good idea since I already have a nextec driver that would use the same battery. But I'm tempted to get away from this Craftsman stuff - would love to jump to the Milwaukee stuff but looks like I'd need to buy the tool and battery separate unless I wanted to get a big combo pack which isn't in the budget at the moment.

 

[CTyankee]

Get the HF corded one...Probably about 15 bucks with a 20% coupon.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

I'd use a Japanese pull saw to get the straight edge and a coping saw or rasp to make a nice fit.

 

[pvfjr]

Get the HF corded one...Probably about 15 bucks with a 20% coupon.

X2

They actually with pretty good. I've used several brands, and can't complain about my HF version.

You can clamp or screw a small block of wood with a straight edge to use as a guide for a straighter cut. You could also bulk out the cut with 1" or wider blade, then switch to a narrow one to get under the metal.

I use this tool all the time to cut for trim in place when installing tile floors. Works great for that. Also great for cutting holes in drywall for electrical boxes. Super precise end results. Get one!

 

[pvfjr]

I'd use a Japanese pull saw to get the straight edge and a coping saw or rasp to make a nice fit.

You wouldn't be able to work that under the metal very easily in a blind cut like this.

 

[bimmer1980]

Yeah, I would agree with the HF oscillating tool. I have one and it is helpful for stuff like this. It is fairly precise. Don't expect a fast cut, but it will get it done. I have sliced into 2x6's and other things where a sawsall would not fit.

FYI--don't expect this to be a long living tool. I've used mine quite a bit and it has developed an issue with one of the windings. On the rare chance it stops on the bad winding, it will not start back up. You have to move the tool bit to turn the motor to a good winding and then it will work again. I've also had this problem on a dewalt cordless impact driver. That motor ultimately completely failed and I bought a new impact driver.

 

[Colin Len]

Awesome, thanks for the input. Looks like this is the way to go. I do have a couple questions though:

1) Are the blades and attachments for these oscillating tools universal? I read some reviews that the HF blades sucked so was wondering if I could get higher quality ones elsewhere.

2) Since I've never used these I'm not sure exactly which blades I would want to use. I'm seeing "plunge" and "flush cut" and some blades which are rounded like a half circle and others that are flat. Perhaps I should get a combo pack and start the cut with one of the rounded ones then use one of the flat ones to get up under the edge metal?

 

[rabbit57]

If you buy an oscillating tool I suggest you get a variable speed is easier to control it at lower speeds .

 

[bimmer1980]

I just have the HF brand blades.... Start with those and buy more as you need them.

Certainly try it in a bit of scrap to get the hang of it before you start on your trim.

They are not all universal, but given that HF basically copies the main suppliers, you should be able to get a better quality... I have cut a fair amount with the HF blades....

 

[pvfjr]

start the cut with one of the rounded ones then use one of the flat ones to get up under the edge metal?

That's what I was thinking. Those thinner, plunge type blades give you a lot of maneuverability, but they're harder to start a nice straight cut with.

As far as blade interchangeability goes, my wife got me a big combo pack of Bosch blades for Christmas. They were specifically marked as being compatible with the HF tool. I think Bosch realizes how many of the HF tools are out there in use. They are somewhat universal. There are indeed multiple interfaces in existence, but there are also lots of companies trying to use the same one.

One tip I have, is make sure whatever you're cutting is very stable. Don't let it vibrate. If that means you have to put a couple extra screws or nails near your cut, then do it. Your cut will go much faster if the material is unable to move and vibrate.

Also, sometimes if something does want to vibrate with the tool, you can just increase or decrease the tool speed until you're farther away from the resonant frequency of the material. That can help a lot; variable speed is the way to go.

 

[ctb]

sharp chisel and hammer. Mark the line you want to cut, score it with an exacto knife, lightly hammer the chisel to follow the line, come in from the waste side with a 30 degree cut with the chisel to the line. Flick off the waste. Now you have a clean line established you can take deeper cuts with the chisel, coming in from the side again to remove the waste. Repeat till done. If you do it carefully it will give you a clean cut. Take the higher spots off first.

 

[Colin Len]

Thanks for the tips, guys!