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Help with epoxy floor issue

igo4bmx

Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2008
Messages
13
I am curious if anyone has suggestions

Floor is 9 years old legacy industrial epoxy
Top was a urethane clear
Filled expansion cracks with their flexible filler

Now the problem- the urethane is flaking off. Only where the sun hits and where i had a fridge leaking water and got under the coating and lifted it (as well as the flakes). This water also affected the filler by getting under it and lifting that too. The epoxy itself has been great- none of it lifted at all

What options do I have to bandaid fix this, or is the best option a re-do at this point?
IMG_9172.jpeg
 
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FJ4FUN

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Jul 28, 2014
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626
Location
NorCal
If the epoxy is disbonding from the concrete the only remedy is to grind it off and redo. Curious, what prep was done prior to original application?
 
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I

igo4bmx

Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2008
Messages
13
The epoxy is fine, the urethane i put on the epoxy is the real issue.

When i applied it was a brand new home, grinded the floor and vacuumed
 
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FJ4FUN

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 28, 2014
Messages
626
Location
NorCal
The epoxy is fine, the urethane i put on the epoxy is the real issue.

When i applied it was a brand new home, grinded the floor and vacuumed
Oh, misread the last part. Still, anything that is lifting will need to be removed prior to recoating. If the joint filler is lifting, it will have to be removed, joint should be ground to bare concrete and refilled. At that point your looking at applying a fresh body coat, flakes and clear so basically this is a redo. The difference being that you will not need to prime as there's no need to grind down to concrete.
 
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igo4bmx

Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2008
Messages
13
Would you suggest a floor sand3r and a low grit? Can polyaspartic coating go on top or should it stay epoxy?
 

FJ4FUN

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 28, 2014
Messages
626
Location
NorCal
Would you suggest a floor sand3r and a low grit? Can polyaspartic coating go on top or should it stay epoxy?
Well, my advice is coming from a perspective of what would it take to make it right i.e. if I were a professional applicator, what would I deem as acceptable to a paying client. That would involve, grind the entire floor down to the color coat (which would likely involve removal of the majority of the flakes), dig out compromised joint filler (prep and replace w/ IntegraFlex 1921), re-apply body coat LiquaTile 1184 and flakes, apply 1-2 coats EnduraShield 2254 hybrid-urethane. But, again, that's what it would take to for me to stand behind the job as a service provider. From a DIY band aid perspective I suppose you could get away with spot grinding affected areas, re-apply any Legacy Industrial materials removed and live with the results. I can't assume what you would define as acceptable so I have to approach it from the angle of what is right from me as a service provider/paying client perspective.
 
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