Help with Fan control and lights/outlet

[realred2]

I'm going to be installing a Fan and lights in my garage and would like to run them from the ceiling outlet (for the door opener, thats not being used) I want to put in a 3 gang box with Fan control, then light switch, then outlet as there is currently only a single outlet in the garage. I think if I run 14-2 from the ceiling outlet to the Fan outlet, then 14-3 from fan to 3gang box, I can get everything working right. Does this sound like it will work to everyone else?
Ceiling outlet ..............Fan.................... Switches/outlet on wall
black...........to........black(bypass fan).............to fan switch (and pigtailed to others)
white...........to..............white.......................to white for outlet
##........................Red to black on fan............to switched out put

And a second line of 14/2 for the lighting off the light switch?

Maybe this helps... yellow = white line/nuetral

Any help?

 

[Charles (in GA)]

What is the amps for the circuit breaker supplying the original ceiling outlet? 15 or 20?

If 20, then you need to run 12 gauge wire.

Charles

 

[realred2]

it is a 20, and I ran 12-3 and 12-2 from the outlet to fan, to switch and new outlet. I did run 14-2 to the new light though.

 

[Torque1st]

OOOps, replace that 14-2 with 12-2 and you are good.

 

[realred2]

Can I ask why? I know the lights not going to be pulling enough for it to need 12-2. it's a in-ceiling can with a 15 watt lamp (CFL) And will have 2 more with it eventually, but thats not enough to need #12 wire.

 

[oleguy]

beacause all wiring in the ckt must be rated for the breaker size.in your case 20 amp and #12.

 

[Sokoloff]

Concur with oleguy and torque. The reason is that the breaker protects the wire (or protects the structure from a fire caused by the wire). In your situation, 14 guage is rated for 15 A, so suppose there were a sustained overload (partial short or overload) drawing 18A. The breaker won't ever trip, the 14 guage will overheat, bad situation...

Your next question might be "Can I just replace the breaker with a 15A breaker?" and my answer would be "No, because the next guy might see the first wire is 12-2 and decide to upgrade the breaker back to 20A." I can't recall if that's what the NEC says as well, or if it just seemed a good practice (to avoid doing that).

 

[Torque1st]

Concur with oleguy and torque. The reason is that the breaker protects the wire (or protects the structure from a fire caused by the wire). In your situation, 14 guage is rated for 15 A, so suppose there were a sustained overload (partial short or overload) drawing 18A. The breaker won't ever trip, the 14 guage will overheat, bad situation...

The next owner may install some high draw equipment like a little space heater that he wants to go on and off with the lights and extends that light wire. Or a wire is penetrated by a screw or nail (I did it myself once) shorting it. ALL the wire in that circuit must be rated for the breaker capacity, -except wiring specifically exempted by the NEC, like short pigtails of fixture wire inside of a UL light fixture that is covered by other sections of the code.

 

[realred2]

ok. thanks.