42 is the answer, obviouslyI came up with 19.![]()
Is that like adjusting for the metal gauge of a vintage gas can when filling it?The OP will still need to then convert square feet to rolls of sod![]()

I buddy of mine re calculated his by "whole pieces", and found that to use the sq ft originally figured, he would have had to piece a bunch of squares together. He ended up overbuying by 15% or so, to allow the minimal piecing of the scraps.With sod, I found that the waste can add up fast. .
Overbuying 10% on basically anything that needs to be cut to cover an area is usually necessary. Siding, tile, pavers, etc.I buddy of mine re calculated his by "whole pieces", and found that to use the sq ft originally figured, he would have had to piece a bunch of squares together. He ended up overbuying by 15% or so, to allow the minimal piecing of the scraps.
How did that work out? Feels like a huge margin for error unless you have a very accurate and precise scaleI had a really irregular shape to calculate once, so I printed it and cut out the area. Then I cut out a 10'x10' segment and weighed both papers. Area = (weight of the irregular area / weight of 10x10 segment) x 100 sq. ft.
I had a really irregular shape to calculate once, so I printed it and cut out the area. Then I cut out a 10'x10' segment and weighed both papers. Area = (weight of the irregular area / weight of 10x10 segment) x 100 sq. ft.
A 10’x10’ piece of paper is pretty big! Need a big printer for that too.How did that work out? Feels like a huge margin for error unless you have a very accurate and precise scale
The OP will still need to then convert square feet to rolls of sod![]()
I assumed that was a typo. Most paper machines aren't even that bigA 10’x10’ piece of paper is pretty big! Need a big printer for that too.
Ok, clarification. 10'x10' on a piece of paper scaled the same as the plot that I cut out. The plot was scaled to 1/2"=1', so the 10x10 scaled square was 5" on each side. I actually plotted the reference square on the same drawing. There are four keys to accuracy with the method. 1) An accurate gram scale; 2). paper with good basis uniformity (I used vellum); 3). print the plot as large as possible; and 4) size your reference square so as to keep the ratio reasonable (say 2:1 to 4:1. I have an HP DesignJet plotter and a good gram scale.A 10’x10’ piece of paper is pretty big! Need a big printer for that too.
In the old days, there was special paper for this, because it was the most reliable way to figure out areas under the curve of things you can plot, but can't integrate. the areal density of typing paper can vary by a lot, something like 5% sheet to sheet, and quite a lot even in the same sheet.Ok, clarification. 10'x10' on a piece of paper scaled the same as the plot that I cut out. The plot was scaled to 1/2"=1', so the 10x10 scaled square was 5" on each side. I actually plotted the reference square on the same drawing. There are four keys to accuracy with the method. 1) An accurate gram scale; 2). paper with good basis uniformity (I used vellum); 3). print the plot as large as possible; and 4) size your reference square so as to keep the ratio reasonable (say 2:1 to 4:1. I have an HP DesignJet plotter and a good gram scale.
That is why I used vellum which is very consistent. Lot to lot and sheet to sheet variation were removed by plotting the reference square on the same page with the area of interest. A lot of nay-saying on this. I'm through defending it. It got me an answer in my case. I just pointed it out because it was a different, and I thought, interesting way to solve the riddle. The greater interest seems to be in shooting it down.In the old days, there was special paper for this, because it was the most reliable way to figure out areas under the curve of things you can plot, but can't integrate. the areal density of typing paper can vary by a lot, something like 5% sheet to sheet, and quite a lot even in the same sheet.
It’s a neat idea and apparently it works for you. No need to defend yourself if it works.That is why I used vellum which is very consistent. Lot to lot and sheet to sheet variation were removed by plotting the reference square on the same page with the area of interest. A lot of nay-saying on this. I'm through defending it. It got me an answer in my case. I just pointed it out because it was a different, and I thought, interesting way to solve the riddle. The greater interest seems to be in shooting it down.
I need to stay away from the Post Reply button. I have the right to remain silent, but not the ability.
The correct way to verify this works is to lay out one roll on the one edge, and see how much is left over. If you have 1/10th of a roll at the end of one column, after 10 columns, you either need to piece 10 little ones together to get one full one, or need an extra roll.Convert all your measurements into "rolls of sod" (RoS). If a sod roll is 18" x 80" (10 sq ft), then the big rectangle is 12 rolls x 4.2 rolls=50.4 RoS, the small rectangle is 10.7 x 1.9 rolls=20.3 RoS and the triangle is (2.2 rolls x 10.7 rolls)/2=11.8 RoS. Add them up and you get 82.5 rolls (RoS). This is about 825 sq ft, not far from the 832 sq ft you get if you use feet. Round up the measurements and you get 84 rolls of sod, which should be enough.
Used to do this a lot in college with "integrating peaks" in chromatography, when we didn't have a computer and software connected to the instrument. We were allowed one run with the plotter paper (which is still expensive), we'd make photo copies of it, cut out the peaks and weigh them and average out results. I recall getting precise results with whatever was in the copy machines.In the old days, there was special paper for this, because it was the most reliable way to figure out areas under the curve of things you can plot, but can't integrate. the areal density of typing paper can vary by a lot, something like 5% sheet to sheet, and quite a lot even in the same sheet.