Help with flash rust on table saw

[drb007]

My dad is redoing an old Oliver table saw. It must have been rusted badly in the past as it has some deeper pits that have not come out after going from 80 grit and gradually increasing to 1500. I think he can live with the pits, but here is the issue.
On his powermatic, he redid the top the same way and sprayed it with a conditioner he got from Woodcraft to seal the metal and keep it from rusting. It doesn't seem to be working. Boeshield T-9 is the product. If he puts his hand on the top and has any sweat, it will flash rust.
Now, I know he is working in tough conditions, as his shop is not air conditioned. But my question is: what is the best way to treat the table top on these old saws to keep them from rusting after he shines them up?
In days past, they recommended using paste wax. Anyone have any tricks that have worked in hostile environments?
Thanks for the help...

 

[Bad Hammer]

I have a big old Ridgid table saw in my shop, and the humidity here in Florida can be a killer........and I use the paste wax method with good success.
After I'm finished with the saw, I clean the surface, and apply a heavy coat of the Johnson's and leave it slathered on until I need the saw again.
A quick wipe down and she's as good as new.

 

[zuk123]

I still use paste wax. I get the cheap stuff from turtle wax as it is pure wax. The more pricy stuff has a lot of other additives.

I sand or wire wheel, then wipe with denatured alcohol (you don't want any rusty powder trapped under your finish), then apply paste wax. Rub the wax in good with pressure and a swirling motion. Let it dry and buff it off (by hand is ok.)

The old tools had really good quality metal, and shouldn't rust too quickly. I've had great luck with a wire wheel on my angle grinder. Use a light touch, and you will almost never remove more than just the rust. I can get back to the original surface finish and see the blanchard grinding marks. If you need to follow that up, a scotchbright or other fiber pad is good as they will not remove much metal.

Sanding should be your last option as it removes metal. Some people swear by WD40 and a straight edge razor as a scraper. They say it will take the rust right off. I've used it on some rulers and it was ok. Most of the tool resto guys hate sanded metal, and wire wheels, but I say, "your tool, your sweat, do what YOU are comfortable with."

There are a lot of threads on rust removal and resto on GJ, and also OWWM and Practical Machinist (in the antique tools section.)

Good job keeping an old machine running

zuk

 

[mothgrey]

I used metal wash from eastwood on some quarter panels and it worked great for months.
Mixed it and used a spray bottle. Just followed the directions. Used a one qt spray bottle.
Worked awesome.

http://www.eastwood.com/metal-wash-7-oz.html

 

[Rust]

paste wax usually contains silicone, and you may not want that to transfer to the wood. if the saw is for finer woodworking.
It wont show up till you try to stain and finish.

I keep all my woodworking machined surfaces coated with parafin wax. rub the bar of parafin across the surface till its all coated, lightly heat it up so it melts and the rub/buff it down with a rag till its slick.

For moving parts the best solution i found is : shave some parafin into a glass jar and then fill the jar half way with mineral spirits. let it sit overnight. the parafin will disolve into the mineral spirits. brush or soak the parts and let them air dry. as the mineral spirits evaporate and the wax is left behind, coating the part. buff it out with a rag. This is great way to keep moving parts clean and it dosent attract saw dust.

 

[clcartwr]

I've used just plain Turtle wax on mine for years and have never had problems with the wax transferring to the wood. The wax is cheap and I only coat mine about twice a year. Also it makes the wood slide so much easier on the table. I use it on my restored drill press, table saw, etc. Helps keeps them much cleaner also.

 

[zuk123]

paste wax usually contains silicone, and you may not want that to transfer to the wood. .

Yup, that's why you have to look at the label. I found the cheaper versions have fewer 'helpful' additives. And +1 on avoiding silicone. You'll get fisheyes in your finish, and that will ****.

For moving parts the best solution i found is : shave some parafin into a glass jar and then fill the jar half way with mineral spirits. let it sit overnight. the parafin will disolve into the mineral spirits. brush or soak the parts and let them air dry. as the mineral spirits evaporate and the wax is left behind, coating the part. buff it out with a rag. This is great way to keep moving parts clean and it dosent attract saw dust.

This is great info. I'll give it a try. Will it hold up to wear? (Drawer slides? Guide rods? machine ways?)

zuk

 

[Rust]

This is great info. I'll give it a try. Will it hold up to wear? (Drawer slides? Guide rods? machine ways?) zuk

Thanks, I picked that info from OWWM.
Personaly, I havent had any problems with it wearing off moving parts. Yet.
On machined surfaces however it helps to be vigilant if the machine is used frequently.

 

[drb007]

Thanks all for the direction...once again!
Such a great source of information you all are...

 

[ODIS]

While not in a "hostile" environment, we are in an area with heavy salt content in the air. Have had good success with using waxed paper which is actually coated with carnauba wax. Rub into the surface then buff. Makes the surface very slick and thus far, no issues with the finishing process.

Ody.

 

[Bad Hammer]

paste wax usually contains silicone, and you may not want that to transfer to the wood. if the saw is for finer woodworking.
It wont show up till you try to stain and finish.

Excellent tip. I had totally forgotten that aspect of the wax, but the old gentleman that told me specifically to use the Johnson's brand had mentioned the silicone issue.
So I'm assuming the Johnson's is silicone free, but to be honest I haven't checked....maybe it's time I did.

 

[Rust]

Ody.

Awsome setup.
I'll have to try that waxed paper technique.
Although, all my machines are antiques.

Excellent tip. I had totally forgotten that aspect of the wax, but the old gentleman that told me specifically to use the Johnson's brand had mentioned the silicone issue.
So I'm assuming the Johnson's is silicone free, but to be honest I haven't checked....maybe it's time I did.

I havent checked the silicone content of any paste waxes either.
And I would assume any paste wax would be fine for moving parts and assemblies. IMO, Its what touches the wood that matters, It can be a real hassle finding your finish fish-eyes and you have to re-sand.
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

 

[icecactus]

I use Johnsons Paste Wax from Lowes. Put on 2-3 light coats. Doesnt contain silicone.

 

[M10]

Just wax and solvent in Johnson yellow can paste wax.
Source:
http://www.whatsinsidescjohnson.com/en-us/products-by-brand/sc-johnson/sc-johnson-paste-wax.aspx

 

[Medicken]

I also use the johnsons paste wax. No silicon to cause finish problems later. In fact, it went on the table of my Oliver 232.

 

[Rust]

That is awsome. Those trunions are enormous.
I wish I could find something like that.
Any shots of it tilted? looks like it tilts to the left away from the fence.

 

[Tech Guy]

I use a can of "Topcoat" sold at HD (at least in Canada) made for spraying down the tops of table saws and other tools

 

[NUTTSGT]

When I bought my older Craftsman saw of CL, it had a slight amount of rust on the table. I cleaned it off using a scotchbrite. Then I sprayed it with WD-40 ( I know there's haters out there) and rubbed it in. Then I kept wiping with a clean blue paper towel till the towel was clean.

It's been fine since. Granted, I'm not making things that are being "finished" so I have no issues with wd-40 transferring to my wood. Once I do that type of work and find a problem, I'll know how to correct it.

 

[Jackfre]

Ah, rust and table saws. I have a '48 Unisaw. Same vintage as me! When I need to recondition the surface I'll take a wire cup brush to the top to get rid of everything on the surface. Then a large Scotchbrite pad on my oscillating sander. Johnson's paste wax and Bob's your uncle. I go thru this periodically, like the beginning of a large project.

I've had my saw out of service and in storage for 18 mos and likely another year. I had it all cleaned up and painted it with POR15. It will be tough to remove, butit will protect the top.

 

[Tim The Tool Man]

My shop is in the woods adjacent to my house in Eastern PA and it is quite humid this time of the year. All my cast iron work surfaces rust fairly fast if they are not protected.

I have found that, like others have said, the yellow can of Johnson's past wax works great. I keep a piece of steel wool in the wax container and use it to apply the wax then I give the top a quick buff with a terry cloth towel and it is good to go.

I also find that if I forget to immediately clean up saw dust and shavings from pressure treated everything around will flash rust. The steel wool and wax clean it right up very quickly.

 

[JasonW]

I grew up using WD40 and it does seem to get the job done here in California but I think I'm going to give the Johnson's a try. Better safe than sorry.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

I use Johnsons Paste Wax from Lowes. Put on 2-3 light coats. Doesnt contain silicone.

Just wax and solvent in Johnson yellow can paste wax.
Source:
http://www.whatsinsidescjohnson.com/en-us/products-by-brand/sc-johnson/sc-johnson-paste-wax.aspx

I also use the johnsons paste wax. No silicon to cause finish problems later. In fact, it went on the table of my Oliver 232.

Right, johnsons paste wax, minwax, bri wax, butchers wax, Tre wax, None contain silicone.