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Help with garage door fix

Jeff

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Dec 10, 2009
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Sonova Beach
This is where the garage door attaches to the opener. I've had issues in the past with the plate loosening. Previously I added another plate for stability and dropped it down a bit for new holes. It was fastened with 1/4" self-tapping screws. This fix lasted about 8 years or so.

I just noticed the entire plate was loose again and the 2 lower screws popped off. I don't have access to the back of the metal support. My solution is to clean up the holes and step up to 5/16" self-tapping screws (x4).

Are there any better ways of fixing this? I'm not too familiar with other types of fasteners for this application. Thanks.

g_door.jpg
 
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GrayFlattop

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Chicago
I suggest drilling through the door and using bolts / nuts. On the outside of the door - either uses some large, thick fender washers, of simply fabricate a rectangular piece of steel stock ~2" x 4" out of 1/8' or 3/16' steel (or 1/4 Aluminum). Paint the outside plate and hardware to match your door. Self-tappiing screws are only a short-term solution , IMO
 

FMB4

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GFT above nails it, er bolts it. I did exactly the same thing using carriage bolts (heads facing outwards of course) with fender washers and nylon self locking nuts on the inside.
 
OP
J

Jeff

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Sonova Beach
I suggest drilling through the door and using bolts / nuts. On the outside of the door - either uses some large, thick fender washers, of simply fabricate a rectangular piece of steel stock ~2" x 4" out of 1/8' or 3/16' steel (or 1/4 Aluminum). Paint the outside plate and hardware to match your door. Self-tappiing screws are only a short-term solution , IMO

Excellent! Thanks for the assist.
 

jstroede

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Oct 28, 2010
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Kansas City
Don't drill through the door. You will end up ruining it.


Get a bracket like this.

Self tapping screws are what holds the door together. Have for years and years and years, and will continue to be years to come.

John
 

rlitman

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Long Island
Don't drill through the door. You will end up ruining it.


Get a bracket like this.

Self tapping screws are what holds the door together. Have for years and years and years, and will continue to be years to come.

John
Not a bad plan, but something to keep in mind is that this is the single point in the door that sees the most jarring stress.

You could always put a layer of epoxy between the bracket and the door before screwing it on. Epoxy will hold great in shear, so long as the screws are there.
 

Innovate1

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Illinois near St. Louis, Missouri
I had a light duty bracket on an 8' x 18' door - installed it myself and didn't know any better at the time. It worked for a few years and eventually pulled off the door. I did a little checking and found that the door company makes a bigger bracket that goes between the strut at the top of the panel and the bottom of the panel. Much more sturdy with fasteners at each end. Picked one up from a local distributor that handles my brand of door. Haven't had a bit of trouble in many years since. Looks like there are some that are universal.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/ReliaBilt-...for-18-in-21-in-and-24-in-Sections/5001996761
 

Innovate1

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Not a bad plan, but something to keep in mind is that this is the single point in the door that sees the most jarring stress.

You could always put a layer of epoxy between the bracket and the door before screwing it on. Epoxy will hold great in shear, so long as the screws are there.
The bracket suggested fits under the strut at the top of the panel. It's very secure. You would have to rip the strut off the panel for it to come off. I would trust it a lot more than a bracket with epoxy. See the install page:

https://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instructions/garage-door-opener-bracket-installation.pdf
 
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PoorUB

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Mar 29, 2021
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Fargo, ND
I would not drill through door either. One of the above mentioned brackets would do well. anything to spread the load out over a larger area.

If you are at all handy a couple pieces of angle iron, 12"- 18" long, screwed on beside each other, back to back, apart just enough to get the opener link in between them, with 3-4 self tapping screws in each one.
 
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BillK

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Aug 24, 2006
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Beautiful Southern Maryland
The bracket that John showed is what I have on my 7x16 door and it has been fine for close to 20 years now. I also would not drill through the door. Get the correct bracket and be done with it :)
 

FredWanaker

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Mar 27, 2021
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NorCal
One might want to also check spring balance on the door. If the springs are getting weak or are the wrong ones, the door may be way too heavy. Normally they should sit balanced between 1/3 and 1/2 way up.
 

Kenstone1

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Oct 2, 2015
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Last edited:

Showkey

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Wausau WI
Good point. Over time the springs loose some tension and need to be tightened up.

Agree……….too “ heavy” can be the cause or the closing travel limit setting is set too “long” putting excessive pressure on the bracket and associated hardware.

OP appears to be at a beach………..but………..in cold climate door freezes to the floor and the bracket can be pulled off if the reverse pressure setting is set high.
 
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Bert_

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Dec 24, 2016
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NW Iowa
I think the plate that screws to the door could be bigger. My doors were missing the brackets for the opener when I bought the place. I just used some small angle iron, but it spans the height of the panel. I think it would be extremely hard to pull off.
 

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