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Help with Garage Layout....
- Thread starter MiseryBay
- Start date
pmiranda
Well-known member
Why not 23x25? Impervious cover limits or something?
Even though the wider, shallower version is a little bit smaller overall, I think you could cram 3 vehicles in there in a pinch. If that's not a goal, the narrow, deeper one is probably more useful.
Even though the wider, shallower version is a little bit smaller overall, I think you could cram 3 vehicles in there in a pinch. If that's not a goal, the narrow, deeper one is probably more useful.
Engineer61
Well-known member
Well, what do you like to drive? A 19'8" depth barely fits a standard cab pickup with 8' bed, and won't hold a crew cab etc pickup, nor many of the "land yachts" made from the mid-50's til the mid 70's. Other than that I would say to always go for the bigger width since it makes it easier to open doors and get in and out without door dings and leaves more room for work benches, shelves, bikes, lawn mowers etc along the walls.
Assuming you don't drive long vehicles, my vote goes for wide and shallow.
If you have a narrow and deep garage, you only get the one back wall for work space -- have to keep the side walls clear so you have room to open car doors and climb out. But with a wide and shallow space, you can use BOTH side walls for workbenches, tool chests, utility sink, etc. Basically, nearly double the linear space.
But as others have noted, if you have/want a long vehicle you need another 5' depth in order to close the overhead door and work under the hood, so bear that in mind...
If you have a narrow and deep garage, you only get the one back wall for work space -- have to keep the side walls clear so you have room to open car doors and climb out. But with a wide and shallow space, you can use BOTH side walls for workbenches, tool chests, utility sink, etc. Basically, nearly double the linear space.
But as others have noted, if you have/want a long vehicle you need another 5' depth in order to close the overhead door and work under the hood, so bear that in mind...
What kind of vehicles are going in the garage?
9'x19' is roughly the size of a standard mall lot parking space. For the shallower layout, you need to think about having the garage door located far away from the door from the garage into the house. If you do not provide good clearance for this area, whenever you go into and out of your garage is going to be a pain. With the limited depth, you need to think about concentrating all your work space into this area too, as there is going to be very little room to squeeze by cars to get to the far side of the garage. If you go with a shallower garage you should also think about using an 18' wide door, as there will be very little room for you to edge cars away from each other to get clearance between 2 cars when you park.
9'x19' is roughly the size of a standard mall lot parking space. For the shallower layout, you need to think about having the garage door located far away from the door from the garage into the house. If you do not provide good clearance for this area, whenever you go into and out of your garage is going to be a pain. With the limited depth, you need to think about concentrating all your work space into this area too, as there is going to be very little room to squeeze by cars to get to the far side of the garage. If you go with a shallower garage you should also think about using an 18' wide door, as there will be very little room for you to edge cars away from each other to get clearance between 2 cars when you park.
JaxonIndustries
Member
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2013
- Messages
- 6
I think that the shallower and wider one would look nicer but the narrow deeper one will probably be more useful in the long run.
Elvenhome21
Well-known member
I vote for deep and narrow, My garage is only 19' deep and its a royal pain to work on any vehicle with the garage door closed. Much less pull an engine, im always whacking my legs on the liscense plate of a car thats backed in.
ChargedUp!
Well-known member
Push the whole house back further on the lot and have it 23d x 28w. If the original plan already calls for that for the depth, no reason to give it up. Also, look at dropping the floor lower to get a higher height inside. It just depends on your lot setbacks.
Also, if I can make a suggestion, if you aren't formal dining room people, wall it off and make it an office. It's too far away from the kitchen to be used much.
Also, if I can make a suggestion, if you aren't formal dining room people, wall it off and make it an office. It's too far away from the kitchen to be used much.
I would LOVE to go big, but the house that my fiance has fallen in love with won't allow it and after all, she is first priority and then comes the garage and cars.... haha I bargained with her, our next house will be built/chosen AROUND the garage!
I don't plan on having a massive vehicle, probably the typical length of about 16' which only leaves 3' left over on the wide garage.... really doesn't sound like much...
I just want to utilize the most EFFICIENT space.
I don't plan on having a massive vehicle, probably the typical length of about 16' which only leaves 3' left over on the wide garage.... really doesn't sound like much...
I just want to utilize the most EFFICIENT space.
23 deep. You are going to regret not having that depth when you are walking around vehicles. You can adjust your storage to the front if you have extra space. You will be glad for the depth if you happen to have a larger vehicle or a future buyer wants that extra depth for their vehicle.
Tom
Tom
ChargedUp!
Well-known member
Just check with the builder on a little stretch. Cost is minimal in the grand scheme of things. If you can stretch to 25' wide, don't drop the depth. But if you can stretch to 25, getting to 26' would be pretty easy too!
ChargedUp!
Well-known member
One other thing to consider is to flip your mud room with your pantry. Keeping the pantry closer to the action in the kitchen makes it a better flow and keeps incoming traffic from interrupting things in the kitchen. It offers a better path in and out for the rest of the house and should cost no money for the change.
I would also tuck the a/c closer to the corner of the garage in the top pic. I can't tell if there are any windows there but shifting it hides it from view. There should also be no charge for this as you can have them do anything you'd like at this point.
Since I'm on a roll, I'll keep going.
Pay attention to location of your hose bibs as well. You'll most likely get 2 and you can have them placed wherever you want. If you haven't finalized negotiations, ask for everything and when they come back with their "final" offer, ask for a bit more. Just be polite and mention partnership a lot with them.
Remember, everything you don't ask for up front is an overage after the fact. You can always add it but it'll cost you. When you do this, and you will do this, you can still negotiate pricing here too.
Different paint schemes are extra. If you want color, negotiate it in up front. Don't forget about it. Remember to add extra electrical in the garage. Now's the time to have shaft mount openers like the liftmaster 3800 and high lift tracks. Same with extra lighting in the garage. Need 220 for a welder, ask now. Same for heat and insulation and floor drains and hot and cold hose bibs in the garage.
In home audio can be added relatively cheaply during the build. Same with wired networking to key rooms and tv locations for smart tvs/ apple tvs/ roku boxes.
I'm babbling on because I'm in the final month of our build so I'm passing along some tips for you. I can also add more with more questions. Good luck!
I would also tuck the a/c closer to the corner of the garage in the top pic. I can't tell if there are any windows there but shifting it hides it from view. There should also be no charge for this as you can have them do anything you'd like at this point.
Since I'm on a roll, I'll keep going.
Pay attention to location of your hose bibs as well. You'll most likely get 2 and you can have them placed wherever you want. If you haven't finalized negotiations, ask for everything and when they come back with their "final" offer, ask for a bit more. Just be polite and mention partnership a lot with them.
Remember, everything you don't ask for up front is an overage after the fact. You can always add it but it'll cost you. When you do this, and you will do this, you can still negotiate pricing here too.
Different paint schemes are extra. If you want color, negotiate it in up front. Don't forget about it. Remember to add extra electrical in the garage. Now's the time to have shaft mount openers like the liftmaster 3800 and high lift tracks. Same with extra lighting in the garage. Need 220 for a welder, ask now. Same for heat and insulation and floor drains and hot and cold hose bibs in the garage.
In home audio can be added relatively cheaply during the build. Same with wired networking to key rooms and tv locations for smart tvs/ apple tvs/ roku boxes.
I'm babbling on because I'm in the final month of our build so I'm passing along some tips for you. I can also add more with more questions. Good luck!