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Help with ideas on replacing kitchen cabinets

warren57

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Nov 4, 2011
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103
Location
Lochbuie, CO
Hi guys, have a unique project to start and could use everyone's advise.
I am getting ready to replace my kitchen cabinets, but the existing were built in place custom sizes from years ago. I upgraded with granite tops several years ago, but now it's time for new cabinets.
I am going to leave the granite in place and demo and add one new box at a time. The granite removal/reinstall would be nearly impossible and certainly cost prohibitive, as it is in various heights where the tops are on cabinets and changes to breakfast bar. They overlap one another and are stacked. So, although the easiest method to change cabinets would be demo everything and start over, I won't be doing that.
As each wall is a continuous single unit, the height is actually about 1/2" taller than a standard cabinet, so as I demo, I will be able to slide a new unit in with no problem. I figured I could leave the horizontal attachment on the walls that support the top, slide the new cabinet up to the existing wall strips and attach. I can add a temp support leg on the outer edge that overhangs to support the front until the new unit is in place.
So here's the real question. How to level the new unit under the existing top. Since it has about 3/8"-1/2" clearance, what options do you see?
Corner brackets with leveling legs to get it tight to the bottom of the granite?, or should I be keeping the bottom solid in the floor trying to shim to the top?
Let me know your ideas, I only want to do this once!!
Thanks
 
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kd3pc

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Aug 10, 2013
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Northern Neck
Having done this before, I would advise, that unless the cabinet framework is in very poor condition, simply refacing the existing cabinets.

Remove the facings in as few pieces as practical and take them to your shop and use them as templates in what ever wood you are going to build with, same with the doors.

Way less work, you end up keeping a good structure - and you get new look, faces, stain, paint and what not.
 

rburke65

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Nov 10, 2007
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Location
Canfield, Ohio
This topic is hitting home as my wife is starting to hint at new cabinets...ugh! There is nothing wrong with them...I think she is just getting tired of looking at them. I notice on TV home remodeling shows a lot of them will keep the boxes and replace the doors or just repaint them. That's what I'm going to shoot for. Good luck.
 

Catadj78

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Aug 11, 2014
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Location
Alabama
I too would reface if they are structurally good. I would go this route myself in our upcoming kitchen model however I am unable to since the cabinets will not be able to be salvaged after tearing them out to replace wood paneling that is in the house
 
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creativecars

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Nov 15, 2010
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4,300
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Indiana- where horse and buggies still roam
OP, If you must replace the cabinets I would put the cabinets in and raise them up with custom pieces from the bottom and cover it all with a new kick plate.


I have been slowly redoing our kitchen for a while... with an old farm house one thing leads to another. Much of the work has been refurbing the plain old "blue" cabinets into a more custom look and moving appliances around for better flow. I don't have early pics but you get the idea of the basic cabinets with new paint and nice hardware. Edit... found some old blue pics.
 

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warren57

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Nov 4, 2011
Messages
103
Location
Lochbuie, CO
To answer everyone's thought on resurfacing, no the frames are warped, doors are warped, pretty much a mess. The originals were made out of some sort of paper coated particle board (early 70's). The paper resembles wood grain ( more like a picture of woof grain!). The styles and rails are 1/2" thick, so you can see how flimsy they are. Paper finish starting to peel....pretty much a mess. No real wood was used, even the nail strips on the wall were ripped pieces of the 1/2" pressed board. They really resemble cardboard cabinets. I think actual cardboard might be sturdier.
When I added granite tops, I reinforced the boxes with pine 1x4's to steady them and support the tops.
Cabinet walls 1/4". , no tops, floors and shelves 1/2" (also warped).
So, no, I will be replacing the entire units.
Please keep the comments coming!!
 
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kd3pc

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Aug 10, 2013
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Location
Northern Neck
AHHH!

In that case then I will divulge my boat trick...make the cabinets 3/8" less tall than what you take out and then when you go to reset them, here is what you do.

Put a strip of 3/8" hardwood at the back and set the lower, rear edge up on that...this will give you enough space to get the new one in and under the counter/support and provide a solid "foot" for the rear of the cabinet, When you get it where you want, especially in relation to the boxes on either side, use some hardwood wedges to shim the front up, plumb. As you screw the faces together to the boxes on either side, adjust the shims accordingly to keep things placed.

Then come back with the front kick panel as Ccars suggests..this should give you a solid and long lasting "base".

Best of luck and keep us posted and pictured as you make progress.
 

creativecars

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Nov 15, 2010
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Indiana- where horse and buggies still roam
Wow,,, sorry to hear about that. Ours were ugly... but pretty stout. They did cheap out on the doors and drawer faces. 3/4 plywood.:sad:

With my recent experiences and knowing my floors were not perfect I would raise the new cabinets up to the known good counter top and fill in at the bottom. That way all doors and drawers are still straight. Not a fun, fast or easy task, but doable.

BTW... I wish I had nice counter tops.
 

Jim51

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Joined
Mar 11, 2010
Messages
20
Location
Calgary, Alberta
I would beef up support for the counter, knock out the old cabinets and level the new cabinets up under the counter to keep the doors and drawers level. A new toe/kick plate would cover up any gap without looking too obvious. My old cabinets were all stick built on site with 1/2" and 3/4" fir plywood and a million nails holding it all together. I had to destroy entire walls getting them out. Good luck.
 
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