Help with lift wiring

[kendogg]

I had my Atlas 2-post installed yesterday in my new shop, and need to finish wiring it. I've pulled 10 gauge (white, black, green) thru the existing conduit and to a 30A breaker in the panel, and now just need to get the power to the lift. Pics are attached, a visual might help. Basically, I'm not sure how to get power to the lift. The junction boxes you see in the pictures are about 8' off the ground. Should I be running MC cable out of that, to the top of the lift, and then down to the motor? Straight across and down to the motor? Can I get a piece of insulated 10/3 and put a plug in the junction box and just plug it in? Thoughts?

 

[fnieto]

I ran power from the top down along the post and into a box. From the box to the pump, I used a section of 12/3. The overhead micro switch is also tied in to the same box. A section of "flex" conduit was used for the transition from ceiling to post to absorb any vibration during use. I would also encourage you to build a support bracket for your reservoir. Most modern tanks are plastic held in by four small screws.

 

[MTW]

Install a EMT conduit from the wall box up to the ceiling above the hoist column. Put a 4"sq box on the end. Convert to a chord drop, with a 4" cover with a hole in it. Use a strain relief chord connector on each end of the chord drop. Or just drop the EMT right onto the side of the column. A disconnect switch on the column would serve you well, and is required by code if the circuit panel is more than 25' away.

MTW Ω

 

[Tim C]

X2 on the disconnect switch, code or not. I've had several buttons stick over the years at different shops. Even though most lifts have a overhead safety switch most cars won't reach which leaves you running for the breaker while the pump is bypassing pressure with the rams maxed out! With the disconnect switch you can kill power right there then figure it out.

I also like to throw the switch if I have one of those Jack stands under the back of a truck or helping hold an axle or transmission. That way no one can raise the lift off the locks by bumping it up like normal. Your first reaction when you can't raise it off the locks is "why won't this thing work", followed by oh yea to remind me to get the jack stand out of there, LOL

 

[Jlarson]

Our spec is a saftey switch on the nearest wall for LOTO purposes and then a sealtight drop with a kellems grip fitting to the post then the sealtight gets one hole clipped down the post.

 

[600SL]

X2 on the disconnect switch, code or not. I've had several buttons stick over the years at different shops. Even though most lifts have a overhead safety switch most cars won't reach which leaves you running for the breaker while the pump is bypassing pressure with the rams maxed out! With the disconnect switch you can kill power right there then figure it out.

I also like to throw the switch if I have one of those Jack stands under the back of a truck or helping hold an axle or transmission. That way no one can raise the lift off the locks by bumping it up like normal. Your first reaction when you can't raise it off the locks is "why won't this thing work", followed by oh yea to remind me to get the jack stand out of there, LOL

++++^^^^

 

[Norcal]

If you used black/white/green, unless the white is replaced it's only code compliant for 120 volts, you cannot reidentify a white in a conduit for 240V, only allowed to do that in a cable assembly like NM cable, "Romex®".

 

[pattenp]

What size conduit is it and how many and what size conductors do you have running in it? Did you make sure you haven't overfilled the conduit and also may need to derate the conductors if more than 3 current carrying conductors.