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Help with metal cutting saw choice

rvieceli

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Nov 3, 2013
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779
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Illinois
Advice please.

I am looking to get a saw for the shop. Unfortunately I don't think I have the space for a full blown floor horizontal band saw (although I'm open for suggestions). So I'm thinking my choices are something bench top size, either one of the smaller horizontal band saw options or one of the dry cut saws.

I'm looking for something that will work mostly on flat bar (A36) 3/8 and 1/2 between an inch to maybe 3 inches. I need something that cuts square across the flat as well as the thickness. I'm trying to reduce the amount of post cut processing I do to get the same. Although cutting 2x2 tubing would also be helpful.

I also use a bit of 6 inch flat bar in 3/8 and 1/2 but I think I will probably have to continue to use the torch to cut that.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Ron
 
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Kev In

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Nov 19, 2016
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Lethbridge, Alberta, Canada
I have used various saws to cut metal. Dry cut saws are by far the best for cutting quickly, repetitively and they provide good square cuts. My smaller floor band saw is good, but I prefer the dry cut saw. The down side to dry cut saw is they are noisy and metal chips go every where unless you have a shield build around the saw. I cut a lot of flat bar and steel tube.
 

Walkers

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May 17, 2021
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Cave Creek Az
Dry saws are nice, except they Are loud and they chips are hot. They are also easy to pooch a hundred dollar blade in seconds by cutting something that is hardened. I have a milwaukee and the Dewalt saw both are nice. The table on the Dewalt is a bit flimsy. I made a new one out of plate for my saw.
 

G-ManBart

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Michigan
I have an Evolution S380CPS and it's a beast. Yes, it's loud, the chips are hot and you can kill the blade quickly if you make a mistake, but if mine was stolen tomorrow I'd order another one. Fast, square cuts and repeatable angles that save me a lot of time make it worth every penny I spent on it. I've cut plenty of 1x3" square solid and up to 3" round solid mild steel with no issues. Don't force the cut, and let the blade stop before you raise it and they last a long time. Raising the blade while it's still moving can cause the teeth to hit on the back side and can damage them, or knock them off. With long stuff I'll loosen the vise and retract the metal so I can immediately raise the blade. There are blade repair/sharpening services in many areas (some you ship to) that are cost-effective if you don't need more than a tooth or so replaced and the rest just reground.

I've gone through a couple of blades in the past couple of years, but that was heavy use and two stupid mistakes. I've had good luck with the Diablo brand 66T blade that is usually a fair bit less expensive than the Evolution blade.

I have a nice Wellsaw horizontal bandsaw and only use it for really big stuff and harder material....it's far slower and isn't really meant for precise angled cuts.
 
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rvieceli

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779
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Illinois
Thank you all for the suggestions.

I went ahead and ordered the Evolution S380CPS from ZORO. Had a coupon for 20% off, so it made it more palatable. Hopefully it will work without me screwing it up.

The HEM saw looked great but priced out of my budget. The entry level model of the HEM saw 782XL (not as nice and more plastic) as I recall used to be around 500 , now it seems to be around 750-800

Geez.

Ron
 
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BukitCase

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Oregon
I have the EVOSAW380, appears to be identical to the cps version except for the vise handle. If you haven't already found it, evolution includes a slip on V block - their claims for blade life are based on USING that block for cutting square tubing.

Downside - if you cut starting on a corner of the tube, there is NO WAY you can build a square fabrication with mitered (45*) corners.

Not a deal breaker, just something to be aware of. I ALWAYS use the V block for normal straight cuts, but since I tend to do a LOT of 45* joints (longer weld = stronger joint, especially if you don't wanna gusset the joint)

HTH... Steve
 

theoldwizard1

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SE MI
A good port-a-band and a good table. If you want "perfect cuts" you will have to finish of a mill.
 

rattle_snake

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Jun 25, 2015
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Chandler, AZ
Thank you all for the suggestions.

I went ahead and ordered the Evolution 380CPS from ZORO. Had a coupon for 20% off, so it make it more palatable. Hopefully it will work without me screwing it up.

The HEM saw looked great but priced out of my budget. The entry level model of the HEM saw 782XL (not as nice and more plastic) as I recall used to be around 500 , now it seems to be around 750-800

Geez.

Ron
Buy a 2nd blade now for the Evo. Then once dull swap in the fresh without having to halt project. Get the other sharpened, $25 or so depending on tooth count.

I also have an EVO, but HF bandsaw is my go to. and plasma table....
 

Ilikeike

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Jan 8, 2015
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Northern Ca.
We made a little stand for our's and keep it in the car port out by the scrap pile, no need to worry about sweeping up much.
saw.jpg

The first blade is still going strong after a couple years of use,
but we have an extra hanging on the wall, just incase.
blade.jpg
 
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sqznby

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Oct 26, 2013
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Coastal NC
You can't go wrong with a dry cut saw. Gotta lovem.


Gotta love inflation, ******* ridiculous.
 

tarbellb

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Apr 17, 2011
Messages
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Oregon
I've used just about every brand of Dry Cut saw out there, owned most, and in my opinion

the Evo 15" metal only saw is the best buy per dollar buy.
Great saw, robust, plenty of power, uses the common 14" blades.
Enjoy, don't forget the goggles/mask/hood and ear protection. Watch for busted teeth, and have a back up blade.

Or get a bandsaw 😆
 
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jhelrey

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Sep 15, 2010
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MN
I have an Evolution S380CPS. Never owned one before but I KNEW I didn't want an abrasive saw. I'm super impressed with the saw and how well it works. It's a game changer. No, I'm not endorsed by them.
 

Hammer1963

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Jan 2, 2011
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Location
Kentucky
I have an HEM and I purchased a clone of a smaller similar HEM from Northern Tool (Klutch) for my son and it has been very reliable. For the price, it's one you should consider.
 

G-ManBart

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Jan 24, 2015
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Michigan
I have the EVOSAW380, appears to be identical to the cps version except for the vise handle.
Actually, the big difference is the preset hole positions in the base allowing you to set 30* and 45* cuts exactly the same time after time. The nice thing is they have multiple arcs so one for each fence setting.
 

BukitCase

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Thanks for that Bart, I didn't notice that - I drew this up years ago, and afterwards made one for my 4x6 saws and one for the 8x12 Jet - never got around to any but 45* tho. If the newer 380 presets are accurate that'd be a good reason NOT to save a few$ by getting the older version I have... Steve
 

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G-ManBart

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Thanks for that Bart, I didn't notice that - I drew this up years ago, and afterwards made one for my 4x6 saws and one for the 8x12 Jet - never got around to any but 45* tho. If the newer 380 presets are accurate that'd be a good reason NOT to save a few$ by getting the older version I have... Steve
Yeah, the first thing I checked when I got the CPS was to make sure the 45* presents were correct and they are on the money. It has made making things like square frames and angled supports so much easier and faster that I almost look forward to them!
 

tarbellb

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I just took my best 45 / 30, adjusted the fence to it, and scribed a line in the base for future reference

Always a good idea to double check after a few dozen cuts
 
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rvieceli

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Illinois
Just a short update, managed to unpack the Evo and got it set up on a miter saw stand I had in the shed. It does a really great job on the stuff I've cut with it. Picked up a non ferrous blade and cut up some aluminum extrusions for some jigs. Nice cuts. I picked up an extra steel blade just in case and the aluminum blade as well.

Replaced it with the blade for steel and cut up some 3/8 and 1/2 inch flat bar. Worked great.

I'm pleased. Thanks again for the help.

Ron
 

jimgood

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Aug 4, 2014
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Marshall, VA
I have one of those DeWalt metal cutting chop saws; probably a lower end model. The base, mitre fence and it's clamping system are junk. Lately, I've found I can do a more precise job of cutting when I use a scratch awl to mark my line(s), cut with a 4" angle grinder and keep the disc moving so that it doesn't overheat. It takes about the same amount of time as dicking around with the chop saw.
 

tarbellb

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Oregon
I have one of those DeWalt metal cutting chop saws; probably a lower end model. The base, mitre fence and it's clamping system are junk. Lately, I've found I can do a more precise job of cutting when I use a scratch awl to mark my line(s), cut with a 4" angle grinder and keep the disc moving so that it doesn't overheat. It takes about the same amount of time as dicking around with the chop saw.

yup Dewalt cheaped out on the base and vise, all stamped steel and known to start failing early


The Evo and others have a nicer cast base
 

paulsomlo

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Jul 16, 2013
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Northern Colorado
I'd like a small bandsaw, like the HEM 782xl, but something with a cast base, rather than stamped steel. HEM makes similar size saws with a cast base, but none of them are capable of vertical cutting; does anyone know if another manufacturer offers one with a cast base and vertical?
 

Walkers

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May 17, 2021
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Cave Creek Az
I have a Dewalt metal chop saw…as noted, hot chips everywhere, very noisy and limited accuracy with bevel cuts…worked great for years…then I bought this and have not used the chop saw since.

A3A3C280-6F46-475A-A6AF-C0019C894529.jpeg562376F2-609A-481B-8F35-906EF40A8BAE.jpeg
Nice! I haven’t used my dry saw in years since I bought an Ellis Bandsaw, so much more pleasant to use.
 

jimgood

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The one thing I liked about the chop saw was that it is portable. I put it on a furniture dolly and wheel it outside when I want to use it. I have toyed with the idea many times of getting a porta-band to replace it. Just can't quite work up the enthusiasm.
 
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