help with my garage

[bowlofturtle]

Ok guys… I need some serious help here. I know next to nothing on woodworking/the terminology used and saws. Right now I’m looking more of the terminology because most likely I’ll be paying someone to do the work for me.

First off, this is a 20x20 brick garage. Probably around 50-60 years old. The previous homeowner had their garage torsion spring break and they rigged up some type of helper pulley spring setup. So here is my problems, I took the best pictures I could. One of the beams seem to have split. It runs the whole length of the garage. The metal bracket along the tracks of the door and the 2 coil springs is what the previous owner installed to help the door go up. I think this is what caused the beam to break.

Now my main question is can I just un-nail that beam and get a new board and nail that in… is this those “load bearing” stuff people talk about, I don’t want the garage to collapse. I’m also considering getting the coil spring repair/replaced. So I think I should be able to remove that metal bracket.

Again… I know nothing about the terms and stuff so please bear with me.

The last picture, its the beam furthest from the picture.

 

[FordTruckWench]

I don't see "the bracket that the previous owner added." The two angle iron pieces (to which the springs are anchored) are original with the door. They hold up the tail of the door track.

It looks like someone has tried to patch the damaged beam (a ceiling joist) - notice the short 2x4 sistered to the joist and the two 2x2's going up to the roof rafter. The little piece split off the joist at the wall is likely inconsequential. But notice that the joist has moved back an inch or so - you can see nails in the gaps. Also, the door track brackets look to be leaning back - originally they were probably plumb. The more worrying part is the line (possible split) on this joist heading to the right out of the first picture.

I wonder if the damaged spring caused the door to open further/faster than normal, causing the joist to break.

 

[matt_i]

The triangulation of the support leg should also extend rearward, along the axis of the tracks, to a structural point. That will give badly needed support for the spring tension.

It looks as though the failed joist is twisting.

 

[dfiler2]

I'm amazed someone got that to work, it appears one side has a torsion spring and the other side is using 2 extension springs. If you don't want to replace the door you can get replacement torsion springs. I would get rid of those extension springs, they are rarely used anymore, one reason is the danger when they break. Newer ones had a cable running through the spring to help contain them if they did break. If your plan is to leave them I would sister a matching piece of lumber along the rafter then run a brace from the top of the wall to the bottom cord to keep it from bowing.

I would have the door replaced, newer doors are lighter, seal better and will stay straighter. I think you are going to have trouble keeping that setup working.

 

[8man]

Add a new piece of lumber (sister a joist) along side the broken one is the terminology you are looking for. Once that is done, contact an overhead door company and see if they can fix the spring system to work properly/better. If not, replace the door.

 

[Milzo]

Add a new piece of lumber (sister a joist) along side the broken one is the terminology you are looking for. Once that is done, contact an overhead door company and see if they can fix the spring system to work properly/better. If not, replace the door.

8man is right. that board is typically called a bottom rafter chord. all that needs done is a matching size board needs install next to the one that is splitting which is called sistering. glue and screw the new board to the old splitting board. I would use GRK RSS 5/16" x 2-3/4" structural screws staggered at 1" from the top and 1" from the bottom every 8" on center on both sides (through new board into old and other side through old board into new.

http://www.grkfasteners.com/index.php/en/products/rss/rss-rugged

 

[T_R]

You can just remove the cracked ceiling joist and replace it. It's not load bearing. It's there to keep the top of the walls from bowing out under load. Well you can as long there isn't snow load on the roof.

With the door up and tension off that spring hack job, remove the springs. Lower the door and unbolt the track from the joist. Remove and replace the joist. Bolt the track back on. At that point based on your lack of experience, you should probably call a door company in to replace the torsion spring.

 

[My Old Tools]

Get an overhead door company to come out and clean up that mess of springs. Its worth it to have them do it.

 

[upndown]

The previous H/O was a ******* idiot! WOW. In nearly 40 years in the business I have never seen that! You definitely need to get that spring situation taken care of sooner than later. That has the real potential of not ending well! While you have a door co out there, have them check your opener as well. Judging by the slack in the chain, you've got bushings worn out in that gear and sprocket assembly, which can lead to various failures.

Once those issues have been corrected, with the door closed you can safely remove the back hangs(angle that holds up the horizontal track) and repair your wood issues.

Just curious, how long have you owned the home?

 

[bowlofturtle]

1st time homeowner, 3rd year. I've been learning the P/O are very creative people with the whole house. Well least everyone whom I've paid to do some work have told me.

I've called and gotten some quote around $200 to replace the torsen spring above the garage door. I would like keep my old school real heavy thick wood door.

So once I get the spring done... I should go about either replacing that rafter board or sistering with a new board.

I know the price is all over the place, but what might be the cost of replacement of that board? Also is this a run of the mill type of repair that most contractors can handle?

 

[McSpike]

Not even on the radar of the original question, but I like (?) the extension cord stapled to the beam with the opener plugged into it. I'd think it wouldn't cost even $50 to run some romex and put in an outlet next to the opener. Added advantage of gaining another outlet in the center of the roof, for a future retractable electric reel.

I do wonder at the P/O not just replacing the torsion springs. Not a real complex job, and lots of information available to help a DIY'er to get it done properly. I did mine when one of mine broke. My repair would probably still be working well, but we had a hail storm and insurance paid for a new door.

 

[upndown]

I like how he just left the broken off section of spring on the shaft!

 

[elba]

Looks like a well built garage. Nice lumber !

 

[bowlofturtle]

Looks like a well built garage. Nice lumber !

Not sure how to take this...[emoji20]

 

[Olinrj]

I would think you and a friend can get a new joist sistered in place in an afternoon. You probably will need to go to a dedicated lumber yard as a big box store will most likely not have a board in the length you need. Construction adhesive and the GRK fasteners mentioned above will be all you need. If the overhead door service tech is a good guy, he (or she) may know a carpenter to help if you're inclined. Good luck!