Help with Pole Building Retrofit
- Thread starter Kels
- Start date
nonhog
Well-known member
I hear you! I pained over how I should approach the same thing.
My only reason for commenting on your thread is to arm you with questions
that your contractor needs to answer.
I'm not saying do this or don't do that. Just (hopefully) helping you get to where your happy (confident) with whatever decision you make.
Has anyone insulated with fiberglass bats DIRECTLY in contact with the metal siding then put a poly sheeting on the inside? (My climate zone is 4 coastal/marine FYI.)
If you have how long has it been in places, have you had any problems with it?
(I am hesitating on this method out of fear of moisture wicking and being held against the wood framing and causing rot.)
Option 2 is CC spf... Cost is an issue with it and I am thinking it could be annoying if I ever need to replace a sheet of siding or a window and not being able to remove the siding due to the foam adhering to it?
Side question Should I use CC SPF on the walls will there be any issue with it not on the ceiling? The ceiling currently has the F/glass insulation blanket on it that is standard and I plan on adding additional bats of insulation to up the R value of the ceiling.
If you have how long has it been in places, have you had any problems with it?
(I am hesitating on this method out of fear of moisture wicking and being held against the wood framing and causing rot.)
Option 2 is CC spf... Cost is an issue with it and I am thinking it could be annoying if I ever need to replace a sheet of siding or a window and not being able to remove the siding due to the foam adhering to it?
Side question Should I use CC SPF on the walls will there be any issue with it not on the ceiling? The ceiling currently has the F/glass insulation blanket on it that is standard and I plan on adding additional bats of insulation to up the R value of the ceiling.
pmiranda
Well-known member
Personally, step 1 would be closing off all gaps more than 1/8" with metal to keep the rodents out. Those bastards will chew or push through just about anything. Then I'd spray foam all the nooks and crannies by hand since you'll never get fiberglass to insulate it well. I don't know your climate so all I can say is after that it's down to cost and local practices.
If I go with 2" of CC spf on the walls only, then fill with fiberglass (flash and bat) then drywall. Should that work?
The roof has steel building condensation blanket on it and is in good condition just needs a few pieces of tape. I was going to add Fiberglass insulation to the rafters/purlins they are 2x8 directly below the condensation blanket and in contact with it. Then 6 mil poly and Sheetrock. Will this work with doing the walls flash and bat. This would be built as a hot roof, Don't want to loose the cathedral ceiling in that room would make it very cramped.
The ceiling would NOT be ventilated! it is not currently vented.
Does anyone see a problem with using CC Spray foam on the walls and not the ceiling?
_____________________
If using FB Insulation ONLY on the walls (Metal walls/FB/Vapor Barrier/Drywall) would you want the FB insulation in contact with the metal and packed full in the wall or do you want to leave it fluffy and not in-contact with the metal?
The roof has steel building condensation blanket on it and is in good condition just needs a few pieces of tape. I was going to add Fiberglass insulation to the rafters/purlins they are 2x8 directly below the condensation blanket and in contact with it. Then 6 mil poly and Sheetrock. Will this work with doing the walls flash and bat. This would be built as a hot roof, Don't want to loose the cathedral ceiling in that room would make it very cramped.
The ceiling would NOT be ventilated! it is not currently vented.
Does anyone see a problem with using CC Spray foam on the walls and not the ceiling?
_____________________
If using FB Insulation ONLY on the walls (Metal walls/FB/Vapor Barrier/Drywall) would you want the FB insulation in contact with the metal and packed full in the wall or do you want to leave it fluffy and not in-contact with the metal?
OK! So Tyvek is now up on the walls, Spray foaming everything was just not in the budget unfortunately. The job went smoother than expected at least better then I thought.
Also installed Z channel around the base to stop mice from getting in, and stainless steel wadded up in the corners as well and sprayed great stuff so the mice should be SOL on getting in!
Now for the next solution and maybe someone has some good ideas...
I want to keep the ceiling cathedral. I am not sure I can do this with out having problems.
The roof is Tin, Vinyl backed 2" Fiberglass insulation/condensation blanket, Purlins. NO ventilation, no soffits, no overhang... see previous photos or this photo as well. I guess it kinda has a tiny bit of ventilation in that there are no closure strips on the roof so where the steel has a ridge there is that small channel.
I am thinking that I don't want to cut or do anything to the condensation blanket because its the only thing between the purlins and the steel, But honestly I have no idea if there is a way to create a "hot roof" with this set up.
The wall height is 7.5 if I had to put in a ceiling with attic it would feel very small and boxed in this way....
So any idea on how to approach this successfully?
Also installed Z channel around the base to stop mice from getting in, and stainless steel wadded up in the corners as well and sprayed great stuff so the mice should be SOL on getting in!
Now for the next solution and maybe someone has some good ideas...
I want to keep the ceiling cathedral. I am not sure I can do this with out having problems.
The roof is Tin, Vinyl backed 2" Fiberglass insulation/condensation blanket, Purlins. NO ventilation, no soffits, no overhang... see previous photos or this photo as well. I guess it kinda has a tiny bit of ventilation in that there are no closure strips on the roof so where the steel has a ridge there is that small channel.
I am thinking that I don't want to cut or do anything to the condensation blanket because its the only thing between the purlins and the steel, But honestly I have no idea if there is a way to create a "hot roof" with this set up.
The wall height is 7.5 if I had to put in a ceiling with attic it would feel very small and boxed in this way....
So any idea on how to approach this successfully?
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nonhog
Well-known member
Looking at your earlier pictures I can't imagine hot roof being any kind of issue.
Looks like you have several inches of air space if you were to add a ceiling on your existing purlins. You could add insulation and still have air space.
Plus you don't have any asphalt roofing do you? I think that is where a hot roof is bad. As in curling 3 tab.
Or you could drop a ceiling a few feet up as to still have a high ceiling.
Follow the purlins a couple of feet then frame in flat ceiling?
Of course confirm these ideas with an expert!
Good luck whatever direction you choose!
Looks like you have several inches of air space if you were to add a ceiling on your existing purlins. You could add insulation and still have air space.
Plus you don't have any asphalt roofing do you? I think that is where a hot roof is bad. As in curling 3 tab.
Or you could drop a ceiling a few feet up as to still have a high ceiling.
Follow the purlins a couple of feet then frame in flat ceiling?
Of course confirm these ideas with an expert!
Good luck whatever direction you choose!
Ok so I have come to a stand still when it comes to insulating the roof. Putting in a ceiling is just too low and I would have to use gable vents however one end would vent into the un-insulated part of the shop and I have a feeling that would cause more problems.
If I could figure out how to insulate the roof with out venting it then I could start moving forward again!
If I could figure out how to insulate the roof with out venting it then I could start moving forward again!