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Help with Quincy QT7.5 Compressor wiring

youdevon

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I have the Quincy compressor above with the Weg motor, eaton contactor etc .

have it set up on a 90a breaker in a subpanel , I used 16 squared XLP amoured cable to connect it up . problem is after switching it on the contactor started to smoke and the circuit had to be reset . also the cable I am using comes with two hot and a ground , where in the panel is the ground suppose to connect since L1 and L2 seems to be for the two hot connections.. quincy manual is not very clear and I atleast want to get some usage out of this machine as soon as possible . I am located in the Caribbean so a lot of cables I here made mention of like romex is not accessible for me .

HElp !!
 

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youdevon

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more pics
 

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youdevon

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this is an unfinished set up there is another breaker to add and also the ground cable on the compressor ( the grey one ) . what am I doing wrong here
 

wyliesdiesels

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Im not sure how things are wired up in the Caribbean but in the states, the ground wire would either go to the neutral bar if its a main service panel or the ground bar if in a subpanel.

Where did the smoke come from?

What voltage do u guys have down there?

What is the voltage rating for the motor?
 
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youdevon

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grounding in the sub panel isn't the problem , the issue is where should I ground it on the compressor , initially we connected it to the silver plate on the right side of the contactor but after turnin on the current the motor started an after 4 seconds the reset on the relay thing kick in , when it stopped the smoke come from the contactor , I am hoping I didn't fry the thing ..I have single phase current running home


this is a pic of the main panel
 

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mm08822

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What is the voltage rating of the electrical service, compressor motor (and if multi-voltage your connection choice), and the contactor coil? All need to match.
 
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youdevon

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I have 200a coming in from the service provider, and a 90a breaker for the compressor , the contactor is a 40a and the motor is also 40a .. 16 squared XLP cable from sub panel 90a breaker to the contactor on the compressor
 

wyliesdiesels

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grounding in the sub panel isn't the problem , the issue is where should I ground it on the compressor , initially we connected it to the silver plate on the right side of the contactor but after turnin on the current the motor started an after 4 seconds the reset on the relay thing kick in , when it stopped the smoke come from the contactor , I am hoping I didn't fry the thing ..I have single phase current running home


this is a pic of the main panel

Which silver plate are u referring to?

Can you post a photo of the motor plate? Is your service single phase? Is the motor three phase?? Incoming voltage?

Looks like its a single phase motor using a three phase starter.

I have 200a coming in from the service provider, and a 90a breaker for the compressor , the contactor is a 40a and the motor is also 40a .. 16 squared XLP cable from sub panel 90a breaker to the contactor on the compressor

He asked what VOLTAGE the service is and what voltage the motor is rated for NOT the amperage.
 

md21722

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Did you buy this new? I would just call Quincy. Maybe you got a bad magnetic starter. There are only 2 hot wires and a ground to connect, and even without the ground it's not going to smoke.
 

md21722

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To help eliminate liability and questions for you when you call Quincy, are you running 230V single phase 60 Hz power? If yes, then I'd just call them and talk to them. Quincy is not a terrible compressor, but a Champion VR7-8 (R30 pump) or Saylor Beall 707 pump compressor would be better, turn slower, and run quieter, but they do cost more... Quincy spins their pumps around 1000 RPM, Champion/Saylor Beall spin around 575-610 RPM. Not sure of their availability or price in your locale. But honestly if I bought it new at high dollar, I don't want to screw with it, I want one that works. If I wanted one that I needed to screw around with I would've expected a deep discount...
 
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matt_i

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Looks like its a single phase motor using a three phase starter.

I thought same but T2 on the very bottom loops back up to L3 and then the motor runs from T1 and T3. So I think that's OK. Also the control voltage wiring seems OK to me, loop from L1 to pressure switch, overload, and back to L2.

What I can't see is the full part number for the motor starter. Hopefully it has a "B" suffix denoting 240vac x 60Hz operation.

Also how are the black and red wires landed in the subpanel? If they are landed on the same leg via two split single pole breakers you only have 120vac. It should be on a double pole breaker side-by-side.

Of some additional concern is the total length of wiring here.
 

wyliesdiesels

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I thought same but T2 on the very bottom loops back up to L3 and then the motor runs from T1 and T3. So I think that's OK. Also the control voltage wiring seems OK to me, loop from L1 to pressure switch, overload, and back to L2.

What I can't see is the full part number for the motor starter. Hopefully it has a "B" suffix denoting 240vac x 60Hz operation.

Also how are the black and red wires landed in the subpanel? If they are landed on the same leg via two split single pole breakers you only have 120vac. It should be on a double pole breaker side-by-side.

Of some additional concern is the total length of wiring here.

The jumper from T2 to L3 is necessary because of the solid state overload that assumedly has phase loss protection.

If the junper wasnt used, thrn the overload would trip when it didnt sense current on the third overload CT.
 
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youdevon

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Well my condition keeps getting worst !!

so I disassembled the contactor , removed the coil which smelt burnt really bad and replaced it with what I thought to be a similar one as far as it read and reconnected everything up . the compressor doesn't power on but the starter makes a fast clicking sound ... what could possibly be causing this to happen


below is what I replaced it with and how I reconnected it
 

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wyliesdiesels

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Well my condition keeps getting worst !!

so I disassembled the contactor , removed the coil which smelt burnt really bad and replaced it with what I thought to be a similar one as far as it read and reconnected everything up . the compressor doesn't power on but the starter makes a fast clicking sound ... what could possibly be causing this to happen


below is what I replaced it with and how I reconnected it

Youre gonna have to give us some info to go on so we can help u.

Several people have asked questions, myself included, that we need answered so we can rule out the basics.

Do u have a multimeter?
 
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youdevon

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I getting about 224v off the L1 and L2 connectors

I also checked for continuity between L1 and T1 with the switch manually in and I'm getting a beep but not for the L2 or any other connector
 
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wyliesdiesels

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I getting about 224v off the L1 and L2 connectors

I also checked for continuity between L1 and T1 with the switch manually in and I'm getting a beep but not for the L2 or any other connector

224v is too low. U have a supply problem.

And u have no continuity between L2 and T2? That means u have a bad contact.
 
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youdevon

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I checked also for continuity on the relay separate from the contactor and it seems fine

checking the contactor alone in a straight line from top to bottom online the L1 and T1 responds so maybe this contactor is bad :sad:

what's the lowest voltage that I can safely run this compressor on since the 224 is too low ??

I called the electric company last night and they checked and said there was something burning in a transformer on the pole which I get my feed and that also the transformer is not big enough for the whole area ... so does this mean I cannot use the compressor now ???:dunno:
 

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wyliesdiesels

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I checked also for continuity on the relay separate from the contactor and it seems fine

checking the contactor alone in a straight line from top to bottom online the L1 and T1 responds so maybe this contactor is bad :sad:

what's the lowest voltage that I can safely run this compressor on since the 224 is too low ??

I called the electric company last night and they checked and said there was something burning in a transformer on the pole which I get my feed and that also the transformer is not big enough for the whole area ... so does this mean I cannot use the compressor now ???:dunno:

The problem with voltage that low with no load is that the starting/in-rush current of a motor will cause the voltage to drop even more. If it gets below a certain point the motor will draw too much current and simply wont start.

U may have burned up the second contact.

What voltage reqding are u getting at your main panel?

How long is the wire(from panel to motor starter) that feeds your compressor?
 
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youdevon

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It's about 25ft of cable . When the electric company came they removed the glass meter and checked the line coming off the pole it was about 224 also jus as with the sub panel.

So the rapid clicking noise could be a damaged contactor then ? Cuz initially when I created this thread the unit actually spun but now it doesn't although the coil is replaced
 

LS6 Tommy

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I don't mean to insult anyone and maybe I misunderstood, but am I the only one who noticed the OP said he's using a 90A breaker? Why are you using a 90A breaker?? Motor draws ~30A, contactor is rated for 40A. Your supply voltage is too low. You replaced the contactor coil and tried to run the unit again without discovering why the first one burned out and correcting the fault. Please call an electrician before you burn down the place.


Tommy
 
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wyliesdiesels

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I don't mean to insult anyone and maybe I misunderstood, but am I the only one who noticed the OP said he's using a 90A breaker? Why are you using a 90A breaker?? Motor draws ~30A, contactor is rated for 40A. Your supply voltage is too low. You replaced the contactor coil and tried to run the unit again without discovering why the first one burned out and correcting the fault. Please call an electrician before you burn down the place.


Tommy

Yes i noticed that as well.

However, code allows the breaker to be max 250% of FLC which would be 70a.

Yeah voltage is too low.

PoCo needs to fix the supply first.
 

md21722

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Based on the power company's recognition that the transformer is oversubscribed, here in the U.S., I would expect the power company to replace that transformer with one that is suitable for the neighborhood at no cost to anyone in the neighborhood.
 
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youdevon

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when I asked the guy he said " that could take some yrs to get that changed "

funny thing is there is a tyre shop diagonal to me with two compressors working .. .
 
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youdevon

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quincy recommended an 80a breaker but where I live the options is 70a or 90a the 80A breaker is not sold here unless I order one into the country , so I went with a 90A option
 

mm08822

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(moved from New thread onto original thread)

Pull the belts off of the compressor so the motor can free wheel.
Does it free wheel?
Shut off power at breaker.(Confirm off at starter line side.)
Confirm motor connections at motor.
Confirm you have continuity from L1-L2 while contactor manually held in.
Confirm open circuit between hot and ground.
Put ammeter on starter supply line.
Turn on breaker.
Measure input supply voltage at starter w/o motor running.
Turn on pressure switch or just force contactor in. Measure voltage/current while motor starting/running.
If you can't get motor to start/run unloaded, compressor is either wired wrong, motor issue or your supply is really soft and this thing ain't gonna work under load.

How big is the service to this location?
What loads are currently running while you try to start compressor?

If you can provide answers to each of these questions as you progress through them, then maybe someone can help you further.
 

wyliesdiesels

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when I asked the guy he said " that could take some yrs to get that changed "

funny thing is there is a tyre shop diagonal to me with two compressors working .. .


Without knowing the HP and if theyre on the same transformer this doesnt tell us much.

FWIW Tobago is 60 Hz, 115/230V nominal.

Thats not a huge issue if the PoCo could keep the voltage at 230v.
 
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