Help with running wire to a difficult spot

[ride92]

I need some help from the collective brain trust. I’m trying to add a circuit in my garage to run about 15 of those 8ft barrina led lights. I want a separate circuit so I can have the other, existing, lights on a different switch (I don’t need operating room brightness when I go out to grab a beer or something). The problem I’m having is how to get the romex to the location of my existing switch box. I thought of a smart switch with remote but most are only rated at 5-6 amp. I’d need at least 9amp. There is a finished walk-in closet above a portion of my garage outlined in blue. What’s the best way to get the wire to the location I want (to the red x) I need to go from subpanel, up thru the chase to the junction box in the attic where it junctions from THHN to romex. I’m thinking I might just have to cut a narrow strip of drywall out and run the wire that way as I can’t think of any other solutions. I can do that as I still have to finish drywalling and taping the garage but before I start cutting drywall I figured I would ask if anyone had a better idea? I’ve recently learned of the Lutron PowPak things but I don’t fully understand how those work or if one of them would be able to handle the wattage and amps I need. My other option is to just add a switch near the back service door that controls the bright lights. Ultimately a 3-way switch would be ideal but 14/3 or 12/3 wire is quite expensive right now and I’d still have the issue of how to get wire to where I want it. Anyone have some good ideas?

It’s a 2 story house with a full basement. The walls are dense pack fiberglass and I have no idea what they used in the “floor” of the closet. The rest of the garage doesn’t have insulation blown in yet but I hoping to change that once I get all the electrical laid out and done.

 

[sparky 1971]

Why not just do the whole thing with exposed conduit? Crawling around n attics and trying to fish insulated walls *****. In fact, I don't do it any longer unless it's someone I've worked for before and then it's only after a failed attempt at trying to get them to find someone else, and 50% higher per hour rate.

 

[Sumboodie]

I'm surprised that circuit panel passed inspection. Many inspectors won't allow it to be in a doorway like that.

 

[Norcal]

I'm surprised that circuit panel passed inspection. Many inspectors won't allow it to be in a doorway like that.

One of the best locations, nobody will pile stuff in front of it.

 

[sparky 1971]

I'm surprised that circuit panel passed inspection. Many inspectors won't allow it to be in a doorway like that.

I've never had one turned down. My favorite place to put a garage panel is behind a door.

 

[Chuckster in NJ]

I'm surprised that circuit panel passed inspection. Many inspectors won't allow it to be in a doorway like that.

Really?…….Why would it be a violation? Please cite the NEC code article.

BTW! I have installed AND approved (inspections) with a panel behind the door.

 

[dcg9381]

I thought of a smart switch with remote but most are only rated at 5-6 amp. I’d need at least 9amp.

I can find smart switches rated for 15A. And I regularly use "smart plugs" that are rated for 15A. A smart plug with an on-the-wall push button (RF) might make life easier.

Looking at barrina led lights, it seems their 8' sections are 72 watts on the high draw options. You installing 18 of them?

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I'm surprised that circuit panel passed inspection. Many inspectors won't allow it to be in a doorway like that.

why?

 

[ride92]

I can find smart switches rated for 15A. And I regularly use "smart plugs" that are rated for 15A. A smart plug with an on-the-wall push button (RF) might make life easier.

Looking at barrina led lights, it seems their 8' sections are 72 watts on the high draw options. You installing 18 of them?

So what I’m finding is that if you read the fine print on most of those smart plugs they aren’t actually 15amp for all types of lights. They’ll have different rating for different lights. The ones I’m seeing are 600w LED and 1800w incandescent. It’s because of LEDs higher inrush current when they first start up I guess. Might just use two caseta switches if I can pair to one pico remote

 

[slimpickins]

Okay, I'm probably going to get laughed at here ... but for a single use case like this, I suggest using an X10 inline relay module.
Yes I said X-10!!!!
X10 Inline relay
Once you have the relay, then you purchase an X-10 wall switch on the same site. There are many options, but for example, use THIS ONE. It doesn't matter that the switch is only rated 500W because it will not be operating the load. The 15A relay module does that. You just connect the switch to the power - and do not use the load wire on the switch - just cap it off. No wiring needed between the switch and the relay module uther than your already existing house wiring.

The only other thing you might need if the switch doesn't work is a bridge Coupler/Repeater device that copies the X-10 control signal across the two hot legs of the PoCo supply.

Keep in mind you shouldn't use any X-10 for anything security related as there is absolutely no security with X-10.

I've had numerous smart switches and I'm sick of replacing smart switches every time there's a lightning storm or power failure. Even with whole house surge protectors and multiple surge bars throughout the house, I still lose smart units. However, ALL of my old - no - ANCIENT - X10 switches have continued to work flawlessly for 2 decades, through lightning storms and power failures, etc. I even have one of the above relay modules above mounted in a PVC box on my yard light pole to provide switching capability from the house, when the yard light is powered from the garage. The X-10 signal goes out through the house panel, back to the yard distribution panel, out to the garage, then back to the yard light. It works flawlessly.

X-10 is now fairly obscure so your chances of interference from someone else is slim-pickins.