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Help with shop ceiling info.

lostmymanual

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Hi folks,
I could use some help determining how to move forward with my shop ceiling. The structure is about 40ft by about 60 ft. Span is about 40 ft.

Based on what I found above the insulation hung on the trusses, it appears that the joists are 2x4 construction scissor trusses, 24" OC.

Unfortunately, the previous owner is not available so I do not know why he quit hanging 7/16" OSB after completing 1 row.

20170523_184405_zpsw7zwenvy.jpg


My concern is that I figured up the weight of finishing this with 7/16 OSB is 2 Tons. I know the weight will be evenly distributed but the 24" spacing has me a little concerned. I supect now that I'm worrying too much. I originally didn't know what kind of joist and trusses I was dealing with.

20170523_184518_zpspoawvjpj.jpg


When I finish this, my plan is to fill in the missing front and back gables, then place one row per side, eventually filling in to the center. Once all that is taken care of, I can finally finish out the HVAC air handling ducting on the ceiling. I just wanted to check with some folks in the know about my concerns before I move forward.

Any help is appreciated.
 
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MushCreek

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I can't imagine that OSB would be enough weight to cause a problem. When I was building my house, I was walking around on the bottom chord of me 2X4 trusses- a 200 lb. point load. Most trusses are designed to handle drywall, which is heavier than OSB. And OSB adds a slight amount of structural strength; drywall is just dead weight.
 
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lostmymanual

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I can't imagine that OSB would be enough weight to cause a problem. When I was building my house, I was walking around on the bottom chord of me 2X4 trusses- a 200 lb. point load. Most trusses are designed to handle drywall, which is heavier than OSB. And OSB adds a slight amount of structural strength; drywall is just dead weight.

Thank you Sir.

I did not know that drywall was heavier. Now that I think of what it's made of, it makes a lot of sense.

Now I just have to figure out how I'm going to hang it. I figured I would have a local contractor do it but they are all ******* working on commercial properties making more money. I can't fault them. Just bad timing.

I guess I'll put the insulation back in place, finish the wall gables and decide if hanging OSB is my thing. Probably not but who knows.
 

NUTTSGT

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Ceiling and wall material is an often debated subject here on GJ.

Another option to hanging OSB or drywall is using metal siding. You can buy longer sheets and it's a one and done. . . . no finish work or prime/paint. Just put some j-channel along the edges before you start and if you don't have an impact driver, if gives you a reason to buy one.

As far as hanging, either go to HF, buy a drywall lift, use a 20% coupon and sell it after you are done or search on Craigslist for a used one.
 

MushCreek

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Doesn't look that high- a drywall lift would work. Unless you work fast, it would be cheaper to buy a cheap one than rent one, and then sell it when you're done. It will be at least 75 sheets- probably more.
 

finn

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Drywall lift and steel.

I've done both steel and osb. Metal was quicker and, as noted, once it's up, you're done. No painting required and the smooth surface makes the room brighter.
 
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lostmymanual

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I'm not known for fast at home so buying is probably a good idea. I'll take a look locally and see what I can pick up. I can probably do some horse trading and end up with something usable. I'll look into the metal thing. I'm not adverse to that; especially with as much metal grinding I do in the shop.

Ya know... Aluminium diamond plate would make a seriously cool shop ceiling... It would be costly.
 
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ddawg16

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I'm a fan of drywall.,..easier to install lights and has better both sound and temperature insulation properties
 
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lostmymanual

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I just answered as though you had your mind made up on OSB. I'm doing white painted metal on mine- lighter, and no added work once it's up.
Yeah, the plan was just to follow suit on what the previous owner started. But he only got 1 row in before quitting, I can always pull that row and run metal instead.

I didn't even think about metal. I was thinking either OSB or drywall. I hate drywall. I got sick of patching drywall and dealing with it in my previous garage. I slid a tool onto a shelf too hard and it damaged the drywall. I pushed a 2x4 through drywall just trying to position it on my saw. I can't stand the stuff. So I figured OSB was definitely what I wanted, but I didn't think about metal for interior applications.
 

6768rogues

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Trusses typically come with their bottom chord dead load being 10 lbs. per square foot. That allows for ceiling finishing and insulation. It would be unusual to have a bottom chord dead load of less than that, but I suppose it is possible. OSB is 32 square feet and does not weigh 320 lbs per sheet.
 
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lostmymanual

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Trusses typically come with their bottom chord dead load being 10 lbs. per square foot. That allows for ceiling finishing and insulation. It would be unusual to have a bottom chord dead load of less than that, but I suppose it is possible. OSB is 32 square feet and does not weigh 320 lbs per sheet.

Once again, thanks folks. I learned quite a bit here. With that in mind, now I can kind of see how to guestimate the load potential of different truss spacings. I wish mine were 12"OC but 24" OC is what I have to work with and it's better than what I could have had, which is no shop at all. Now I'm going to be looking at all my structures from another perspective!
 
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NUTTSGT

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Drywall lift and steel.

I've done both steel and osb. Metal was quicker and, as noted, once it's up, you're done. No painting required and the smooth surface makes the room brighter.

I agree, that's why I wanted to throw out the metal suggestion before the OP got too far involved.


I did my garage ceiling in OSB. I caulked the edges and some nail holes. I hung the 7/16" osb by myself (me and a T brace/deadman) and it was a chore. The house garage I did in metal with a drywall lift.

Hands down, I would never put osb up for a ceiling again.
 

Notgrownup

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I am using 1/4" OSB in my 24x24, I am screwing it with Torx decking screws, it working out ok up to now but I have seen some sag where I forgot to install a screw...I am blowing insulation so the weight shouldn't affect it...I hope....
 

NUTTSGT

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I am using 1/4" OSB in my 24x24, I am screwing it with Torx decking screws, it working out ok up to now but I have seen some sag where I forgot to install a screw...I am blowing insulation so the weight shouldn't affect it...I hope....

Honestly, I don't think you are going to be happy with the results once you are done. I believe that 1/4" osb is going to sag plenty but I hope I'm wrong and it works out for you.
 

finn

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I've got 1/4" osb in part of my garage, and it sags and generally looks like ****.

Covering it with steel to match the shop portion of the garage is on the project to -do list.

The 1/4" osb sagging would look better with 1x4" battens, but covering it with steel may actually be easier.

The thin osb warps and sags from the humidity and weight of the insulating bats above it.
 

forAK

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I've got 1/4" osb in part of my garage, and it sags and generally looks like ****.

Covering it with steel to match the shop portion of the garage is on the project to -do list.

The 1/4" osb sagging would look better with 1x4" battens, but covering it with steel may actually be easier.

The thin osb warps and sags from the humidity and weight of the insulating bats above it.

1/4" osb sagging and then metal over it, will still look wavy. Better off to rip the osb down and then put metal up.
 

Kevin54

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Use lightweight 1/2" drywall in 12' sheets. Finish off an paint. BTW...there is a strip that goes down through the center of the ceiling called a finish strip, or zip strip maybe.....this leaves a perfect clean edge for finishing off the drywall in the peak.
 

Falcon67

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7/16 OSB is just less than 2 lbs sq/ft of weight. UltraLight weight 1/2 x 12' drywall is about 1 sq/ft. Regular 5/8 drywall as recommended for 24" OC use runs just over 2 lb sq/ft.

My shop ceiling is all 7/16" OSB, that's 1760 lbs. The 2x12 joists don't care.

1/4" OSB will sag like crazy on 24" OC. Been there, used that. If you don't mind waves, go with it.
 
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lostmymanual

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A friend just helped me realize that I need to get my HVAC ductwork in before I can even start finishing the ceiling. That might be why the previous owner stopped when he did. I've got to figure out how to duct the place. Preferably out of sight above the chords. This is going to be a whole new can of worms but worth it. I already have the main unit installed and running. It's just dumping air out the main air handler at the back of my shop for now. That's how it conveyed with the property.
 

drivesitfar

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LMM: very good thread idea. i'd make sure you have all your wiring for lights and all your ducting and any other things done before you cover it up. might be the reason the prior owner didn't finish, but more likely he ran out of time or funds.

for a big ceiling like yours i'd probably go with metal, but i've always seen and used sheetrock. that said i really didn't know metal was an option for ceilings or walls inside a garage before i joined GJ. i do like the idea of osb or if you can afford the upgrade plywood for the walls cause then you don't always have to hit studs for things you might want to attache to them.

good luck
 
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