I recently bought a bunch of slatwall on CL for $30, this included a 4x8 sheet, several 2x8 sheets, a few 2x6 and 4x4 sheets. I'm happy I found them on CL for this price as buying new is really expensive. Anyhow, I want to use the material to cover one wall in my garage. About 1/3 of the wall already has Drywall covering on it since it's the part of the garage wall that is common with the inside of the house. I'd like to cover the entire wall, about 14 feet from end to end. My question is can I just span over the top of that drywall and then go to the open studs or would it be better to add some 5/8 furring strips to the tops of the studs so that it's all even across the wall? and what about Vapor barrier? Do I need to add plastic behind the Slatwall before hanging it up? This is my first time covering a garage wall so I don't really know the best practices
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Help With Slatwall Covering
- Thread starter ride92
- Start date
fitz11
Well-known member
I would definitely use furring strips so they are even the whole way. No practical reason other that it would drive me crazy if they didn't line up.
Are you insulating before you cover the wall?
Are you insulating before you cover the wall?
alwaysFlOoReD
Well-known member
Is your garage heated? If so then insulation and vapor barrier would help lessen heating costs. I'd also fir it out.
I went all-in with the slatwall. After two terrible failures, I'm slowly tearing it out.
I used it for shelf brackets, and evidently it wasn't strong enough. I've had three incidents, and all of them have been in the spring when it starts to get warm and humid. The slat wall has just broken, the brackets fall, as does everything on the shelf (or shelves).
All of the slatwall shelves I have remaining (which is quite a few), I have drilled the shelf brackets, placed over a stud, and ran a 3" deck screw through the bracket, the slat wall, the drywall and into the stud. Sort of kills the "modularity" of it.
It's a shame. I was such a fan! But it is decidedly light duty stuff.
I used it for shelf brackets, and evidently it wasn't strong enough. I've had three incidents, and all of them have been in the spring when it starts to get warm and humid. The slat wall has just broken, the brackets fall, as does everything on the shelf (or shelves).
All of the slatwall shelves I have remaining (which is quite a few), I have drilled the shelf brackets, placed over a stud, and ran a 3" deck screw through the bracket, the slat wall, the drywall and into the stud. Sort of kills the "modularity" of it.
It's a shame. I was such a fan! But it is decidedly light duty stuff.
I'm unsure on whether or not I want to insulate. I like the idea of a warmer garage here in Wisconsin but I don't know if I want to sink the money into this place as we are looking to move in the next 3 years or so. I primarly got the slatwall because 1) it was the right price for the amount of material it is and 2) I have two little girls that are collecting toys and outdoor play things like bubble and chalk. I felt it best to move things around in the garage, so that that bubble and chalk weren't on the same self as the kerosene and plant fertilizer stakes! I saved the wall covering from our basement when we redid that, it's about 1/4 paneling that is painted white. the ceiling is open and I wasn't going to mess with that too much. Is it worth it to just insulate the walls?
Is your garage heated? If so then insulation and vapor barrier would help lessen heating costs. I'd also fir it out.
I have one small infared quartz heater above my bench that does very little to actually heat the garage, it more or less just keeps me warm while under it. Being an attached garage it doesn't get brutally cold from the ambient heat of the house.
Since I have no plans to close the ceiling would insulation in the walls make a difference? And what would the advantage of a vapor barrier be?
alwaysFlOoReD
Well-known member
I have one small infared quartz heater above my bench that does very little to actually heat the garage, it more or less just keeps me warm while under it. Being an attached garage it doesn't get brutally cold from the ambient heat of the house.
Since I have no plans to close the ceiling would insulation in the walls make a difference? And what would the advantage of a vapor barrier be?
If you aren't going to insulate the ceiling, then there is no use insulating the walls. Most of the heat goes up. I don't think there would be much advantage to vapor barrier either, tho it might help stop drafts depending on how the exterior is finished.
If you aren't going to insulate the ceiling, then there is no use insulating the walls. Most of the heat goes up. I don't think there would be much advantage to vapor barrier either, tho it might help stop drafts depending on how the exterior is finished.
That's what I was thinking. Also since I'm going to use furring strips, I picked some up yesterday, there will be a slight gap at the top and bottom of the wall where the furring holds it off the studs on top and bottom so there should be plenty of air moving behind there to combat moisture and what not.
Another question, what is the recommended type of screw to use to hang this stuff? And how many screws should I be using? Every groove along the stud? Top, Middle, Bottom? Should I use adhesive as well?
So what's the best way to attach to the studs? Can I just nail up the furring strips and then screw right thru those into the studs or will that split the furring strips, Should I pre-drill the holes? I'm thinking I'm not going to use adhesive so that I can remove panels if I need to get to electrical.
About electrical, I need to remove from surface mounted conduit and was going to run romex to a blue new construction box, but will that remove the ground that the metal boxes and conduit provide? I guess I could just use the ground wire in the cable to the junction box at the ceiling?
About electrical, I need to remove from surface mounted conduit and was going to run romex to a blue new construction box, but will that remove the ground that the metal boxes and conduit provide? I guess I could just use the ground wire in the cable to the junction box at the ceiling?