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Help with steel workbench top

ozzmosis

New member
Joined
May 11, 2008
Messages
4
Hello!!

I have a dilemma. I am in the process of building a workbench, and I have a steel door to use as a worktop, but am not sure how to mount it to the wooden frame. I would like to keep the top as clean as possible, but mount it so that it can be removed and replaced if required.

I've tried to search it out, and have had no luck thus far.

Thanks!
 
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wantedabiggergarage

Member Emeritus
Joined
Feb 25, 2006
Messages
3,897
Location
Independence, MO, USA.
Make a fake top, with a lip that goes all the way around the door. This way you can flip the door, or replace it. You could also get some galvanized metal and line the inside with that, and place a drain into a 5 gallon bucket, for messy work, like Transmissions, etc.
 

BD1

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2007
Messages
4,602
Location
north side
hi, I would use self tappinng sheetmetal screws. If you don't like screws than what about toggle wings and bolts. If you have a welder than you can bolt angle clips to the wood frame and tack other end of clip to door. hope this helps. bob
 

mtwaterguy

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2007
Messages
3,518
Hello!!

I have a dilemma. I am in the process of building a workbench, and I have a steel door to use as a worktop, but am not sure how to mount it to the wooden frame. I would like to keep the top as clean as possible, but mount it so that it can be removed and replaced if required.

I've tried to search it out, and have had no luck thus far.

Thanks!

If by clean you mean nothing sticking up to get it the way or snag what ever you're working on, then be sure to countersink any type of screw or bolt that holds the top down
 

russlaferrera

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 24, 2006
Messages
2,035
Location
Central Virginia
Build a wooden frame around the outside of the door. Screw it to your legs or workbench frame , use a 3/4 X 3" wooden strips around the door and screw sideways into the door and frame.
 
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jcp907

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2008
Messages
167
Location
Seminole County, FL.
The first things that comes to mind is to use the hinges to mount the door at the rear of the bench and use latches if necessary in the front. Perhaps it's heavy enough to skip latches in the front. This will allow you to lift it up to get underneat if you need, although it may be heavy to open and close it.
 

TNToy

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 11, 2006
Messages
1,385
Location
West Tennessee
Screw all that. Built the table with a plywood top whose dimensions match your door. Lay a bead of liquid nails or RTV around the edge, and slap the door down on top of it.

No screwholes or nails sticking up... Just pry it up with a scewdriver if you ever need to swap it out. :)
 

rocketman

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2008
Messages
263
Location
Chicagoland
Aren't steel doors hollow? Seems it would dent up pretty easy.

When I was into woodworking more, I built my first workbench top out of 2 pieces of old kitchen counter top screwed/glued together, then put a piece of 3/4 baltic birch ply on top and edged it with rock maple trim. Thing weighs about 9,000 pounds but I can pound on it with an 8 pound hammer and it doesn't even flinch. Coated it with a rock hard salad bowl urethane. When it gets banged up, I get out the belt sander and make it all new and purdy again. Holds a 12 inch steel Wilton working vice too. I didn't have the coin at the time to do it right with edge glued rock maple butcher block style. A homemade 4 inch thick top can cost you $500+ in stock alone.
 
Last edited:
B

bob83b

Guest
Thanks for the good info, your site is very cool.

Thanks for the good info, your site is very cool. ------ Bruce Brown(Hot Kicks).
 
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