Help with these bolts, presumably ties.

[akpingel]

A previous owner of my shop went around and removed all of these ties (except they partially left the one shown). I have no idea why unless it was to hang the plywood walls and they found the ties to be in the way. Maybe they aren't needed? Is this a problem? If so how can I effectively fix it?

Thanks!

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

 

[06 DIESEL]

Those are the anchors that hold the sill plate down, they are important.

 

[Abeo]

If I'm not mistaken, those are set into the concrete to attach the sill plate in the wall to secure it. Not an optional fastener

 

[vavet]

Gravity, while pretty trustworthy, is not enough to work alone in this application.

 

[GMCGarage]

drill and epoxy new anchor near it or use same hole, just clean out.

 

[Shootinok]

That's pretty weird that they took 'em out.
The fact that they're gone completely is even weirder, because they should have been cast into the concrete.
Couple questions:
The wood looks kind of old, how old is the shop?
Was it relocated?
Is it possible the sill was previously used and those anchors where never there?

There appears to be a strap anchor of some kind. If that is cast in and holding the plate, you may be fine.

If you feel like you should add anchors you can always add expansion anchors by drilling through the plate and into the concrete.
Like these...

 

[akpingel]

Gravity, while pretty trustworthy, is not enough to work alone in this application.

My thoughts exactly... I don't really want my shop blowing away like its in the wizard of oz.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

As other above have stated, those are indeed 'anchor bolts' or 'J' bolts as they are sometimes referred to. I have seen anchor bolts that were corroded down to next to nothing when I removed old sill plates. Perhaps chemicals used in treating of the bottom plate lumber or, are you near the ocean? Salt air ?

I suggest that you replace the missing A.B. with hot dip galvanised wedge bolt anchors.

 

[akpingel]

That's pretty weird that they took 'em out.
The fact that they're gone completely is even weirder, because they should have been cast into the concrete.
Couple questions:
The wood looks kind of old, how old is the shop?
Was it relocated?
Is it possible the sill was previously used and those anchors where never there?

There appears to be a strap anchor of some kind. If that is cast in and holding the plate, you may be fine.

If you feel like you should add anchors you can always add expansion anchors by drilling through the plate and into the concrete.
Like these...

My best guess is that it was built right after the house, so probably early 1980's. I dug through some permit history but haven't found it yet. I haven't thought about the fact that maybe the sill existed somewhere else first but that seems plausible. There is a coat of concrete type stuff that seems to have been applied around and over certain objects throughout the shop, like it was added after original construction. The small tie in the last picture exists in multiple locations, but it does not seem very substantial- like it would shear off pretty easily. I will get some more pics taken of some of the other odd findings and maybe someone can help me figure out what it's history might have been.

 

[readhead]

Not sure what the bolts are about but the Simpson sole plate connector came out in the late 70's. I used them quite a bit and the concrete finishers loved them because they weren't in the way. They would be installed on the form and bent over the plate during framing. The bolt could be for a hold down considering where it is located next to a framing member.

 

[akpingel]

Not sure what the bolts are about but the Simpson sole plate connector came out in the late 70's. I used them quite a bit and the concrete finishers loved them because they weren't in the way. They would be installed on the form and bent over the plate during framing. The bolt could be for a hold down considering where it is located next to a framing member.

So are they used in place of J bolts?

 

[readhead]

Yes, and they still make them. I liked using them but they did not hold the wall in place very well. I would shoot a Ramset nail every four feet or so to keep the wall straight. Some guys used adhesive.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

If they were to tie in the bottom plate, should the theads ave been within a 1/2 to 1” of the cement? Maybe someone that had no or little experience in framing did the placement.

 

[ard]

I have some holddowns that dont sit on the sill plate, but bolt to a fitting that is in turned attached to the framing mebers:

Just FYI-

Dont think that is what is going on here....

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

I have some holddowns that dont sit on the sill plate, but bolt to a fitting that is in turned attached to the framing mebers:

Just FYI-

Dont think that is what is going on here....

Never seen these before, guess I’m the newbie on this holddown. I’ve used the Hilti expansion anchors like Shootinok displayed.

 

[ard]

Here in California there is no end to the seismic money one can specify....

so to speak

Holding the sill plate is one thing, but if you want to hold an entire wall assembly you tie it to vertical framing members. Brackets that also sit on the sill are more common though.

You can see that when the wall to sill joint fails, nails just pull out of the lower edge of the sheathing where it is attached to the sill- only 1/2 to 3/4" of material there.

 

[D45]

how many are missing?

How many are still in place?

Can you look down the hole and see if they were cut out or if they were in-threaded somehow?

 

[rigid1]

As others have said .. They need to be there . A couple different options . I would not use the same holes for a couple reasons . tough to get the junk out of the hole . Hole may be too large now . most importantly the old anchors should not have came out without being cut off flush at the plate .

Simple thing is drill new holes through plate and in the concrete to the correct size for the anchor . Simple wedge anchors are easy to use

You can also cut threaded rod .drill the hole and put epoxy in the hole . Push the rod in and let it cure overnight . Put a washer and a nut on to tighten and you are done . There are single tube epoxies now that you can use in a regular caulking gun . Regular zinc plated or galvanized rod will do . Wedge anchors are made from the same low carbon material > For no more than you have I would use galvanized material in either of the above forms .

 

[Firebrick43]

I would skip the threaded rod/epoxy and the wedge anchors. Used some strong tie titen bolts. They are more faster to install and less sticks up to snag on stuff. 1/2"x6" would be appropriate for the sills. I have used maybe 100 of them in different sizes in my ICF house/garage build. Use a rotary hammer to drill a new hole and a socket wrench or impact to drive the titen in.

I have installed 1000's of epoxy/readyrod and redhead anchors over the years. The only advantage is if you have to remove/reinstall equipment time to time.

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2009/10/06/titen-hd-screw-anchor-review

 

[ard]

As others have said .. They need to be there ..

We have NO idea if they ARE needed.

Without a set of plans, wall sizes, construction, location in the foundation, jurisdiction- it is impossible to know

In the pictures there IS an existing plate anchor in place. No the bolt may not actuallu be needed. Can't tell.

 

[Firstram]

Most building inspectors have had me epoxy anchors in to replace missing/defective bolts. A wedge anchor can fracture the slab if installed that close to the edge.

 

[mudflap]

Thats a really wide sill plate, and looks older than the rest of the framing, and u can tell by the compression ring where the washer is sitting...they were there..and tightened down at some point.....something odd going on there. But yea..just drill and drop a thunder stud in every 4ft...problem solved

EDIT: The sill plate is probably a different color because it was CCA moisture treated

 

[Lelandwelds]

I guess there is a Simpson part for every job possible.

Weird. That is a lot of work to do something dumb without any benefit, right? Why would anyone work to remove those?

 

[mudflap]

I guess there is a Simpson part for every job possible.

Weird. That is a lot of work to do something dumb without any benefit, right? Why would anyone work to remove those?

Maybe the previous owners Wife got the house in the divorce...and he decided no way is she getting my garage..and was preparing to move it...?

 

[lango]

That's what I was thinking. I know how he felt, if that was the case.

 

[akpingel]

Maybe the previous owners Wife got the house in the divorce...and he decided no way is she getting my garage..and was preparing to move it...?

That's what I was thinking. I know how he felt, if that was the case.

I am also thinking this may have been an actual scenario...

Im bringing this back from the dead as I have started working on another (related) issue. The garage door frames are starting to sag and need work. The door trim is cracked in the middle and there is sagging and rubbing against the door: IMG_20180705_183526 by Alex Pingel, on Flickr

I pulled the plywood interior wall between two doors today and found this state:

Stepped back for reference:
IMG_20180705_183507 by Alex Pingel, on Flickr

Looking down between the two doors:
IMG_20180705_183149 by Alex Pingel, on Flickr

Its hard to tell from this shot, but the plate is floating on the garage side! There was a 2x4 cutoff sitting there but not secured and not supporting anything... and the tie straps and old anchors are all free:
IMG_20180705_183250 by Alex Pingel, on Flickr

This angle shows the gap better:
IMG_20180705_183430 by Alex Pingel, on Flickr

More for reference left to right, garage door track, door framing, jack stud, king stud, aluminum flashing and exterior siding:
IMG_20180705_183156 by Alex Pingel, on Flickr

Second garage door:
IMG_20180705_183159 by Alex Pingel, on Flickr

Top of first door, you can almost see the header starting to pull away from the top plate in the corner, this is occurring on both sides:
IMG_20180705_183139 by Alex Pingel, on Flickr

Exterior frame rot:
IMG_20180705_181030 by Alex Pingel, on Flickr

So I guess the question is, how screwed am I? I would like to fix this right, do I need to take the whole door assembly down and start over? What about the bottom plate, do I fill that with brick/block or 2x4s plus appropriate anchors?

Thank you,

Alex

 

[akpingel]

Seeing if anyone has any perspective on my last post here.
Thanks!
Alex

 

[ard]

Hmmm ...thats a mess.

Are there headers they? Looks like the roof rafters load the walls over the doors??

How much do you WANT to do? What is the objective? To meet current code, sound, last 20 years? or clear escrow in 3 years?

Remove all rot.
Create tie down anchors to framing (ie drill and epoxy two bolts)
Create structural shear panels at all 3 walls around doors.
Install headers to carry loads

(IM a CA boy, so your need for tiedowns may indeed be less...)

 

[akpingel]

Hmmm ...thats a mess.

Are there headers they? Looks like the roof rafters load the walls over the doors??

How much do you WANT to do? What is the objective? To meet current code, sound, last 20 years? or clear escrow in 3 years?

Remove all rot.
Create tie down anchors to framing (ie drill and epoxy two bolts)
Create structural shear panels at all 3 walls around doors.
Install headers to carry loads

(IM a CA boy, so your need for tiedowns may indeed be less...)

Yea its a mess alright! I believe this is a header although I dont know how it is constructed other than what is visible now. I suppose I could take off the exterior siding to check its thickness. The trusses rest on a double top plate, followed by this header and a 2by and then the jack studs. The design for holding up the garage door frame is different than I have seen thus far as well.

Overall I would like it built to be more weatherproof and definitely structurally sound. I'm willing to invest the resources to fix it so that I do not have to re-visit it in 10+ years.

Thanks for the feedback.
Alex

 

[Marctrees]

Maybe I'm nuts... and/or totally confused anyway.

I'm just first trying to understand the OP, not even gotten to the other photos/ questions yet.

Cuz... the first at the top OP post shows somekinda wire ? attached to the anchor bolt.

Is he asking about that thing that looks like a wire, or just the anchor bolt?

How does someone ask "What" an anchor bolt is for?

In any case, why is the nut not tightened down onto the bottom plate?

It's obviously a anchor stud.

I do not get this post at all... like Twilight Zone weird question.

Did I miss something ???

Help me please... totally confused here.

"Hang the plywood... in the way..."

What does this have to do w Plywood, and how is it possibly "in the way"

??

What ?????

Marc

 

[PugetDude]

I would skip the threaded rod/epoxy and the wedge anchors. Used some strong tie titen bolts. They are more faster to install and less sticks up to snag on stuff. 1/2"x6" would be appropriate for the sills. I have used maybe 100 of them in different sizes in my ICF house/garage build. Use a rotary hammer to drill a new hole and a socket wrench or impact to drive the titen in.

I have installed 1000's of epoxy/readyrod and redhead anchors over the years. The only advantage is if you have to remove/reinstall equipment time to time.

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2009/10/06/titen-hd-screw-anchor-review

Great in new concrete. Good luck getting them into old concrete that has cured to 6000 +

 

[meboatermike]

Marc, I am pretty sure that he has moved way on beyond the original "anchor bolt" situation he had -- and has revived that old thread with a newer question that still might sort of go back to the original question at the bottom of the wall but also has new additional problems/questions up through to the header and top plate perhaps

 

[akpingel]

Maybe I'm nuts... and/or totally confused anyway.

I'm just first trying to understand the OP, not even gotten to the other photos/ questions yet.

Cuz... the first at the top OP post shows somekinda wire ? attached to the anchor bolt.

Is he asking about that thing that looks like a wire, or just the anchor bolt?

How does someone ask "What" an anchor bolt is for?

In any case, why is the nut not tightened down onto the bottom plate?

It's obviously a anchor stud.

I do not get this post at all... like Twilight Zone weird question.

Did I miss something ???

Help me please... totally confused here.

"Hang the plywood... in the way..."

What does this have to do w Plywood, and how is it possibly "in the way"

??

What ?????

Marc

I moved from the original question given that the feedback on the Simpson style ties seem to have been the replacement for the original bolts. I wasn't aware these Simpson type ties were sufficient replacements for the bolts. As a side note I'll add that I am not completely confident that the Simpson ties are all installed correctly on all 4 walls of the shop at this point, and I do still need to figure that out somehow.

The wire is a J bolt, cut off. All the bolts were cut off and most were discarded, and my best guess and based on other posts is that a previous owner added/replaced/repaired the blocks and/or physically moved the shop.

Someone asks what a J bolt is for when they do not have any real construction experience at all, but they know things do change and that what could have been a significant design element in the 1980's may not be today. I'm also not the first person to ask this. The previous shop owner, whether right or wrong, had a strong opinion that they were not needed hence left one hanging like you see in the first picture and threw most of them out.

 

[akpingel]

Marc, I am pretty sure that he has moved way on beyond the original "anchor bolt" situation he had -- and has revived that old thread with a newer question that still might sort of go back to the original question at the bottom of the wall but also has new additional problems/questions up through to the header and top plate perhaps

Yes, thank you. I probably should have started a new thread for the header.

 

[Charlie51]

On those anchor straps: most of them are installed incorrectly. If they are to wrap from the concrete block around and over the sill, they are supposed to be spread into a Y for installation. Otherwise, you drill a hole in the sill plate and spread them over the sill and fasten. Opening an installed strap to two 90 degree legs, placing the sill board on top and wrapping the straps around is a lousy way to do things. Here a pictures of how it should be done. (Sketches obtained from UPS Connectors.)

 

[Marctrees]

The wire I referred in the very first topmost photo... upon looking again is a bent nail hanging out.. but first somehow looked to me like a #12 or so odd wire that to the left the J bolt.. I couldn't understand what that was about.

So, that led me down confusion..

Anyway, glad you got it figured out.

Marc

 

[akpingel]

On those anchor straps: most of them are installed incorrectly. If they are to wrap from the concrete block around and over the sill, they are supposed to be spread into a Y for installation. Otherwise, you drill a hole in the sill plate and spread them over the sill and fasten. Opening an installed strap to two 90 degree legs, placing the sill board on top and wrapping the straps around is a lousy way to do things. Here a pictures of how it should be done. (Sketches obtained from UPS Connectors.)

This was very helpful. I called USP and got the technical specs for and the said 4 nails are needed to secure it, a strap every 3 feet. The section between the two garage doors is definitely wrong. My best guess is they shorted the height of the block by about 1.5 inches and used two two by's to fill the gap. Almost seems like they built it all in reverse then realized they were still about 1.5 inches too short. I need to rebuild this section using an appropriate anchor.

 

[RPM55]

It's possible that someone was trying to repair some rotted or otherwise damaged wood around the door opening and they really didn't know what they were doing. There are a lot of diy types out there that don't have a clue.

I wish you the best of luck getting this all sorted out.