Help with welding

[Pucman1]

So I have a project and I am a novice welder. I picked up a northern tool welder but it is limited in what it can do, mig unit with 2 power settings, variable wire speed and no gas! I am trying to find a hobby welder better suited to what I am doing. So it is a car restoration and the gauges of metal range between 16 18 and 20 gauge. I don't need to be to an expert for the frame work as far as neatness but hope to refine my skills so when I get to more body work it will be clean enough. Anybody have recommendations that won't break the bank?? Tips or tricks for welding as well


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[Farmall450]

weldingtipsandtricks.com

I'd be more concerned about laying a good weld on the frame where it actually matters...

I'd search craigslist for a used millermatic. You can come across a 230 amp one for $4-500 if you take a little time.

Or you can spend the same amount of money on a new, smaller Hobart that will suit your needs and not be nearly as capable.

 

[L.Cheapo]

Like the above poster, Jody from Welding Tips and Tricks taught many of us on this board how to strike an arc. He has a great youtube channel. He does a lot of tig, so search it for mig, he did a great how-to series on it (10 or so parts) a year or two ago.

As far as a welder, I started with a Millermatic 211, and I'm really glad I did. It does everything a novice hobbyist like me needs/wants to do--and then some.

 

[wagon]

Pick up a Hobart Handler. How much exactly are you looking to spend on a welder?

You'll be best suited running 75/25 argon/co2 gas and solid wire. Your LWS that will provide the gas will likely be cheaper on the wire than a big box store. It wouldn't hurt to see what they have on the shelf, too. Keep in mind that name brand welders have razor thin margins, so they may not have much wiggle room on the price.

 

[crewchief888]

sounds like you could "get by" with a 135-140 size 110v machine

Lincoln,miller, orhobart, just pick your favorite color

ive used all 3 over the years.
i have a lincoln promig 140 in my garage.
i'm limited to 110v feed to the garage, and it's portable.

 

[MoonRise]

to the OP: Note that if a wire feed welder runs only with no gas (as you stated), then you don't have a MIG machine.

You have an FCAW machine.

Slightly different process.

Both MIG (or more formally, GMAW) and FCAW are welding processes that use a consumable wire electrode. But they are not exactly the same in the arc or the weld puddle.

And that difference in the arc makes GMAW (in short-circuit transfer mode) with shielding gas generally preferred for welding of (relatively) thin gauge steel sheet metal.

FCAW generally runs 'hotter' than comparable GMAW. And thus it is harder to weld thin(er) sheet metal via FCAW.

Oh, and the flux residue (the slag) is a bit$#% on an automotive-grade paint job if you leave even the tiniest amount behind when you paint over it (generally).

Right tool for the job on 'thin' sheet metal is generally a GMAW (gas shielded) machine running C25 gas (pure CO2 can work, but is a bit 'hotter' and has a bit more splatter than C25).

New machine? Lincoln, Miller, Hobart, ESAB. 120V 140-amp class machines are 'plenty', for welding steel sheet metal.

But you can run out of oomph is you want/need to weld thicker stuff. In which case you can move up to the 180+ class machines running off of 240V power.

Most of the manufacturers now also make some around 180-200 amp class machines that can run off of 120V power at a lower output power level or 240V power for 'full' power output.

Your call.

 

[Bondo]

I picked up a northern tool welder but it is limited in what it can do, mig unit with 2 power settings, variable wire speed and no gas!

Ayuh,.... With flux-core wire, that machine will easily do what yer wantin' to do,....

 

[amason3]

weldingtipsandtricks.com

I'd be more concerned about laying a good weld on the frame where it actually matters...

Agreed, and if you're welding on the frame where it flexes, I wouldn't use a mig. Also, you need to worry about heat and what you're using as filler a lot more so you don't end up with a brittle/weak section.

 

[67King]

So I have a project and I am a novice welder..................So it is a car restoration and the gauges of metal range between 16 18 and 20 gauge. I don't need to be to an expert for the frame work as far as neatness but hope to refine my skills so when I get to more body work it will be clean enough.

Just going to throw another option at you. Sheet metal/body panels are HARD to get right for novices. I've ruined a few panels, myself, and I am not all that bad. But I know my limitations, and further sheet metal on car restoration will be outsourced for me. Just something to think about.

 

[sberry]

Agreed, and if you're welding on the frame where it flexes, I wouldn't use a mig. Also, you need to worry about heat and what you're using as filler a lot more so you don't end up with a brittle/weak section.

Mig actually works very well for this. The filler in common mig wire is quite good.

 

[Pucman1]

So thanks for everyone chiming in, I have played with the settings and still not having any luck. Also just as a test I took some of the Same gauge metal I need in to work to try a different machine. I was able to run a pretty nice bead, not the straightest but good penetration. So bottom line is I think the setting can not go low enough for the metal I need....might be time for a upgrade.


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[Ign]

Ayuh,.... With flux-core wire, that machine will easily do what yer wantin' to do,....

I wouldn't wish flux and less than 16ga on anyone. Even 16 is a bit tricky. The OP stated 18 and 20 in which case .023 and gas shielding is preferable. The flux just runs too hot - esp for a novice.

As for frames....just fish plate it!

 

[yaidunno]

IMO, flux core shouldn't even be considered for sheet metal repairs. Its uses should be limited to field applications where dragging around a tank is not permissible, or where wind blows the shielding gas away.

To preface, nothing about properly restoring a car is cheap, including the tools needed to perform the tasks. You need to decide if your ready to pony up the cash for a suitable MIG setup. This will also include a tank, be it purchased outright or leased. A well cared for used unit will provide years of service at substantially less money than new, and might also come with a tank.

Once you are properly equipped, its time to practice. And once your finished, practice some more. Read up on the subject and take a class. As soon as you start dealing with anything structural, frame, or suspension related, your skills need to follow suit. No longer will welding be something you can occasionally dabble in. Rather, you will need to be quite proficient in the skillset.

My equipment recommendation would be a Millermatic 185 or similar sized machine if used is an option, and 240V is available to you. The new multi process machines such as the 210MP from Lincoln seem to be getting good reviews as well. No personal experience with them. Best of luck on your endeavors.

 

[arbormatt]

Agreed, and if you're welding on the frame where it flexes, I wouldn't use a mig. Also, you need to worry about heat and what you're using as filler a lot more so you don't end up with a brittle/weak section.

Working in a plant that runs over 700 chassis through a week I would strongly disagree. Mig is all we use for this process.

 

[marinusdees]

So thanks for everyone chiming in, I have played with the settings and still not having any luck. Also just as a test I took some of the Same gauge metal I need in to work to try a different machine. I was able to run a pretty nice bead, not the straightest but good penetration. So bottom line is I think the setting can not go low enough for the metal I need....might be time for a upgrade.


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Put a 100" extension cord in front of the welder. If that's not low enough, add another 100'. You get the idea.
,

 

[damnesia]

I'm a little confused if you're welding body panels or a frame. If it'd body panels you don't want to run a bead. Stitch/tack welds all the way around alternating sides and stretch the metal tacks with hammer and dolly every other one or so. There is a great thread on the fabrication forum here about it.

 

[Marcm157]

I am a hobbyist and do all my own automotive repairs in my home shop. I bought a Miller 190 as my firs welder about 3 years ago and have become fairly proficient on it. It was my first welder and still serves me very well. Its basically the same machine as a 211 but without the dual voltage option...

 

[motofool33]

180 amp to 200 amp 110volt to 220volt machine is the best home welder you can get.

you want to use .030 solid core wire and 75/25 wire for sheet metal
er70s-6 welds really well to things that are not clean, burns right through rust but the weld material is very hard when your grinding after welding.
if using on body panels that need to be smoothed look for softer wire.

 

[Pucman1]

I will need some repair on the frame which I believe to be 16 gauge and then moving to the body panels which is 20 gauge! I am not to concerned about how beautiful it is as compared to making sure the welds will hold. I am trying to resurrect a family ride passed down, to keep the memory alive so to speak

JP

I'm a little confused if you're welding body panels or a frame. If it'd body panels you don't want to run a bead. Stitch/tack welds all the way around alternating sides and stretch the metal tacks with hammer and dolly every other one or so. There is a great thread on the fabrication forum here about it.

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[Pucman1]

So I am happy to say after much searching I pulled the trigger on a Hobart Handler 140 with a coupon code and on sale plus a competitor price match I got a deal! Now just need to hunt down a bottle for the gas hook up and start dialing in some practice. Thanks for the advise and tips, I think in the long run this machine will be able to do what ever I need it to. I am just waiting for the shipping information to post so I can plan the unpacking.....any welding carts plans might be helpful??


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[Chris Stapley]

Actually the little 135 Eastwoods man g is a great entry level machine!
[url]http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-mig-welder-135-amp-and-cart.html[/URL]