Here is my rant about my lift installers

[wickdgt]

I order a Danmar D-10 ACX 10,000 lbs lift. Installers came to put it up. So these two young men say we are coming to install your lift. Ok, they start etc. One of them looks like he does not want to be there and I kept checking behind him. So I go to get something at Lowes and when I came back the one installing it say this is not a symmetrical lift is an asymmetrical, so I said what did you do to turn, he said he just unbolt the anchor and proceed. So I see something on the floor and it was the anchor that has been cut??? Well everything is done but they try to test the motor and hydraulics with a 110 extension cord, I told them that is not going to work. He said it has work before but not with mine. So I got my electrician to come and wire it etc. I contact the company to see when they can come back and set up and show me how to use the lift and test it. Well, when they get a schedule to my area then will have someone come by and do it, its been a week and nothing yet. So today Saturday 3 December I decided to go to the shop and check the instruction but could not find anything about torqueing the bolts. Be fore the installer left I ask them are you going to torque them down, answer was, not needed the impac took care of that. I told them you not suppose to torque them down with an impact, but they just ignore me. So today I went to check on these anchor bolts, all of them were loose I can just show the wrench to it and move them. So I decided to torque them down to 85 ft lbs. The left side torque fin, then right side is a different story. The anchor at the back of the lift looked funcking, I got closer and I see some type of glue!!! I put my finger to it and the anchors moves up and down?? WTH!! So I pull the anchor and I can see that who ever drilled the hole made the hole tooo big and try to cover it with some kind of cement glue. Then the next one to the corner I can see a lot of threads since it has been shim I looked under there and I can see a washer in the cement hole, WTF!! The others torqued but I have one that the hole is to big and another that looks like is going to come out. First thing in the morning I will contact the company and request the supervisor he was talking all the time when they were working on it. My gosh safety first, they just did not care. I can not image what could of happen if they were able to test this lift. Here are some pictures.

http://vid118.photobucket.com/albums/o108/wickdgt/20161203_142648_zpsnjov2qdb.mp4


http://vid118.photobucket.com/albums/o108/wickdgt/20161203_142433_zpshlrvglob.mp4

The last picture you can see how much thread is sticking out compare to the beside one. By the way, that anchor it comes out easy, and I take it got bigger because it hit rebar so the ***** kept drilling. The question is, will this be able to be repaired?

 

[PelicanPines]

Welcome to today's "skilled labor" who care about nothing but their phone and doing as little as possible.

 

[Daedalus]

Guys like that shouldn't be allowed in a shop that nice. I would be livid. Hopefully you paid with a credit card, because IMO that's an easy charge reversal, but good luck getting any damages back. IIRC you can't sink another anchor within 6" of any of those holes, but maybe you can salvage what's there by using anchor epoxy with an anchor designed for it.

EDIT: Oh, I see what you mean by having an extra anchor that was cut flush. Hopefully it's not too close to the lift anchors.

 

[XS29L9B]

Welcome to today's "skilled labor" who care about nothing but their phone and doing as little as possible.

Exactly!! I had work done this week and had to show the installer what to do. Why pay for the "service" if I need to stop and explain?


FWIW, in my area, I used Rick the Tool Man and would use again. No problems there on my recent lift move/install.

 

[danbuff]

That is awful...
You are so right... Safety is main concern.
I hope they will resolve it to your satisfaction.
Good lesson for all is to be present when your lift is being installed..

Your facility is beautiful.

 

[regguy1]

I wouldn't trust them anymore, I'd cancel payment, document all errors with photos and video and have a qualified installer correct the job. If they sue you you'll have documentation and an expert witness. Don't forget to mention to the screw up installer that losing the payment on their botched job is nothing compared to a million dollar lawsuit if the lift falls on someone due to their faulty installation job.

 

[wickdgt]

These installer is a company in Lynn Haven Florida recommended by bestbuyautomotive lifts. I found them on face book and sent an e mail to the owner of the business with pictures etc. Lets see if he answers. They are about and hour from me which is easy for me to show up at their company.

 

[Bronson]

I don't blame you for being pissed!
I would be on the phone to the BOSS, don't talk to Indians, talk to the Chief!

 

[LXCam]

Damn that's some **** right there. I opened this thread figuring it'd be another, oh they scratched my lift deal

I'd make a big deal of this too. Good luck.

 

[ford fanatic]

Nice 4 eye...and shop.

 

[LXCam]

Btw for the two bad holes. If the anchor can be removed. Threaded rod can be epoxied in.

 

[hefnerconstructionlc]

Yes use concrete anchor epoxy, you can find it at a box store. Just clean the bore holes out well. Then clean your threaded rod and fill the hole with epoxy. Next insert the anchor, by wiggling it down till it bottoms out. Leave it for min of 24 hours, 48 is better and torque your fasteners down to the required set. That epoxy is great stuff, it is actually far stronger than the concrete around it. As long as your post are set on a column to support the weight of the post, vehicle, etc, you should be good to go. Sorry about your poor experience, good help can be hard to find. By the way, we use that epoxy all the time to set ledgers, steel post, framing, etc. Good luck.

 

[wickdgt]

Yes the one without the nut I can take out pretty easy. So I need is a threaded 3/4 rod and that epoxy and let it cure right. One thing I notice is that I can see why the anchor did not go all the way. There is a corner of the rebar. I see why the hole got bigger. Can I find this in Fastenal? What do I need to get in case they decide not to do anything on this.

 

[hefnerconstructionlc]

Yes I would think fastenal should have what you need. Yes you will need to allow time to cure prior to torquing the nuts to spec. Just get your anchors set in the epoxy then use your flat washer and run the nut down by hand to keep your anchor where you want it. The most important thing is giving the epoxy the needed time to set up. Just by looking at the epoxy it will be hard to the touch in an hour, but won't gain its strength for 24. Just read the label and follow the directions and you will have great results.

 

[Bennylava]

Your wall of text hits you for 1,200 points of damage. You die. Would you like to resurrect at your local graveyard?

 

[wickdgt]

Your wall of text hits you for 1,200 points of damage. You die. Would you like to resurrect at your local graveyard?

????

 

[NUTTSGT]

Pretty shoddy workmanship. It's reason like this that many members here insist on doing things themselves.

 

[motofool33]

????

he plays too many RPGs (roll playing games) thats what you would see when you die in a game like world of warcraft.

 

[MOwens]

On the anchor that they cut off flush. If you cannot remove it maybe you can push it deeper into the drilled hole so that it is below flush and then cover it with cement patch or the epoxy you will be using to set the two loose anchors.

 

[matt_i]

The only repair I would accept would be using a magnet drill press "stuck" to a piece of 1/2" or more steel plate that's held down by the weight of a vehicle tire.

Using a succession of twist drills, drill out the wedge anchors into a pile of metal chips. Clear the holes using compressed air and a metallic tube that reaches the bottom of the hole.

Now make them into epoxy anchors with Grade B7 (approximates Grade 5 bolt) threaded rod, waiting 24 hours (or more since cold) for the epoxy to fully cure before applying the proper foot pound click wrench.

The problem is this type of repair work is well above the skills of the monkeys who put this in.

 

[Jlbc212]

These installer is a company in Lynn Haven Florida recommended by bestbuyautomotive lifts. I found them on face book and sent an e mail to the owner of the business with pictures etc. Lets see if he answers. They are about and hour from me which is easy for me to show up at their company.

Call Bestbuyauto and tell them what happened, so they don't ever recommend these installers again and bestbuyauto should give you something for recommending these idiots in the first place.

Don't ever pay someone to do what you can do yourself.

 

[wickdgt]

The issue here is sloppy work , careless, dropping tools and the hammer knowing that the floor is not your typical commercial shop floor. every time they drop a tool my teeth will grind. Then they wanted to test the motor with a 110 extension cord on a 230 motor. So they said to me that when power gets hooked up then they will schedule someone to come and set it up. I want the guy who was talking to him every time he called at my shop and fixed this.

 

[lakeroadster]

Yes use concrete anchor epoxy, you can find it at a box store.

Don't use the epoxy from "a box store" unless the manufacturer of your lift specifies it's use.

I used epoxy on my lift anchors. I called Rotary, they specified Hilti HIT HY200, and emailed me a specification sheet.

The epoxy Home Depot has is about half the strength of HIT HY200.

 

[wickdgt]

Don't use the epoxy from "a box store" unless the manufacturer of your lift specifies it's use.

I used epoxy on my lift anchors. I called Rotary, they specified Hilti HIT HY200, and emailed me a specification sheet.

The epoxy Home Depot has is about half the strength of HIT HY200.

It looks like an anchor bolt cant be used. The hole is larger the reason I can take it out. What is ******* me the most they did this without telling me what they did, so they tried to hide their ****** job. Looking at what you are recommending, I saw they have the threded rods in 3/4" and 1 ". I think the 1 " will not go through the lift plate hole.

 

[Z2V]

X2 for the Hilti epoxy. Great stuff.
Awesome shop!

 

[MagKarl]

Please post Hilti specs for epoxy strength. You would think strength would be one of the specs that would be readily available, but my Googling came up short.

 

[hefnerconstructionlc]

You can find the specs for the Sika anchor fix on their site, you can also find the specs for the hilti products on their site. Of course match the product to the application. However in general terms the two part epoxy is stronger than the concrete around the anchor. To be sure, you could have a structural engineer specify the anchor spec. I would also think the manufacturer of the lift should have that info. They should be able to give the anchor size, pitch, nut, setting material, etc.

 

[Z2V]

https://www.us.hilti.com/anchor-systems/injectable-adhesive-anchors/2022793

 

[Bill Bowman]

I don't have anything fruitful to add, other than I wish you well, and,....VERY nice shop.

 

[bigdav160]

Nice shop.

From my experience, this typical service work. That's why I do everything possible (including installing my lift) myself.

Nothing wrong using an extension cord to test your lift as long as they do not plug it into a 110v outlet.

 

[minytrker]

I bought the same lift, if will be here tomorrow. I almost paid for installation but decided to do it myself since I have installed 4 lifts before. A friends shop has 5 lifts, he installed 4 of them and paid for 1 install, you can guess which lift they have issues with.

 

[wickdgt]

Nice shop.

From my experience, this typical service work. That's why I do everything possible (including installing my lift) myself.

Nothing wrong using an extension cord to test your lift as long as they do not plug it into a 110v outlet.

That is what they try to do 110 extension cord on a 110 outlet not the 220 I showed them.

 

[matt_i]

The epoxy Home Depot has is about half the strength of HIT HY200.

Not buying this. If you compare Sika Anchorfix2 vs the Hilti HY200, one's in metric and the other SAE...

A 12mm anchor (Hilti) vs a 1/2" anchor (Sika) has a recommended tensile load of 25,9 kN whereas the 1/2" has a 5200-5800 psi recommended load depending on depth of embedment.

Convert 25,9 kN * 224.8 = 5822 psi.

I don't regard that as a factor of 2.

Imo the biggest determination in actual "field" strength is how accurately the installer cleans the hole prior to gunning the adhesive.

Source: https://www.hilti.com/medias/sys_ma...plication/pdf&realname=HY-200_FTM_2012-09.pdf

Source: http://usa.sika.com/dms/getdocument...12d07bbe66f/pds-cpd-Sikadur-AnchorFix2-us.pdf

 

[lakeroadster]

Yes use concrete anchor epoxy, you can find it at a box store.

Don't use the epoxy from "a box store" unless the manufacturer of your lift specifies it's use.

I used epoxy on my lift anchors. I called Rotary, they specified Hilti HIT HY200, and emailed me a specification sheet.

The epoxy Home Depot has is about half the strength of HIT HY200.

Not buying this. If you compare Sika Anchorfix2 vs the Hilti HY200,

What about Sika Anchor fix 1, or the other Sika epoxies?

I think you missed the point..... which is to use what the lift manufacturer specifies. Not simply whatever the "big box store" has to offer.

 

[Cougar]

Big box store probably won't have the grade threaded rod you need. Can get it from Fastenal or McMaster Carr.

 

[Cougar]

When I called Bendpak to get someone to install my, they said they didn't have anyone in my area,
So did it myself.
Maybe I was lucky they had no one.

 

[dw1]

Btw for the two bad holes. If the anchor can be removed. Threaded rod can be epoxied in.

I agree, Hilti makes an epoxy and bolts that will work. This seems to be the anchoring system of choice around here, from robots to heavy machinery,no issues from it. Can you get the old bolts out?

 

[laser3kw]

So I need is a threaded 3/4 rod...

do not use common threaded rod. Most threaded rod is a grade 2, low tensile. But 3/4-10 Studs, grade 5 or better.

 

[ChargedUp!]

My installers used an extension cord plugged in to a 110 outlet to test the motor out. I had to have the electrician out after the lift was mounted to get a proper location. We had no problems testing this way...good luck!

 

[moose knuckle]

My installers used an extension cord plugged in to a 110 outlet to test the motor out. I had to have the electrician out after the lift was mounted to get a proper location. We had no problems testing this way...good luck!

The motor on his lift runs 220V, they were trying to run the extension cord to 110V.