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Hex head taps?

Movin/on

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Did a search but no results on "hex head tap"

Is there a set of hex head drive taps available?
I need to run taps down a lot of holes to clean/chase the threads and would like to use a drill or ratchet to speed the process. I currently put a square socket on the tap or drive a hex socket onto the tap.

Movin/on
 
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Fluelikesymptoms

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https://apexbits.com/apex-tap-holding-sockets-male-hex-drive-metric.aspx

Has 2 pins that tighten against the tap, you could tighten them both down evenly against the tap and weld one pin in place, leave the other free to remove change out taps. The pins like to come loose. This will limit the overall use of the holder and would end up dedicating it to your specific tap.
 
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Mr Ratchet

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For cleaning up threads I too recommend a thread chaser/rethreader. I would not recommend using these in a drill though. They are thin in the middle compared to the thread and hex ends. A ratchet or speed handle would be fine. I use my Gearwrench ratcheting tap handle with the correct size Vortex socket most times with my rethreading taps/dies.
 
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Movin/on

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Cvairwerks: I will be careful starting the tap.
I primarily want to chase the threads in FE Ford blocks and heads. I've got 20+ engines and want to be sure the threads are good if I ever sell a few.
Head bolts in the block are 1/2 inch so I'll use a bottoming tap.

A second thought: does someone sell a hex drive square (4 or 8 point) nut driver set? That way I could easily size to different square tap drive sizes.

Movin/on.
 

bob15

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How about a tap socket and a speed wrench. Using hand power tools and taps are accidents waiting to happen.

Tap socket:

Laser-Tap-Socket-Set.jpg


Speed wrench:

F4LBK.jpg
 
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Movin/on

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Yes I'll most likely buy a set of the tap sockets and use a 1/4 or 3/8 hex driver out of a cordless variable speed drill. You've got to remember that just head bolts 20 per block X 20+ blocks, then oil pan bolts...………..

I'll be ordering the socket set. Lisle the Best?
Thanks for the comments

Movin/on
 

bob15

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I have had my Lisle for 20 years, no issues.

One thing to remember, you have all these blocks, but what happens when or if you snap-off a tap in a hole using a hand drill? Then what? Sure you have a lot of blocks, but doing it by hand is still the safest method.
 

Dingleburry

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Search hex shank tap set. Theres plenty
Honestly though, i just crank down the chuck on a cordless drill onto a normal tap...do it all the time works great.
I prefer a drill, you can "feel" the torque
 
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AldeanFan

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Wait a minute,
How do you have 20+ FE blocks???
I might be interested in one, you don’t even have to chase the threads for me


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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kythri

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Wait a minute,
How do you have 20+ FE blocks???
I might be interested in one, you don’t even have to chase the threads for me


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No joke - and, you're in Oregon, to boot? What do you have, and what might you want to sell?
 

davethorik

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I've had quite a bit of experience using a Milwaukee M18 cordless drill chucked on a tap to chase threads in freshly machined parts. Trick is go slow, hold part and drill firmly but let your arms wobble to align threads.

I wouldn't want to do it with rethreaders in an engine block tho lol. Or any size smaller than 5/16.
 

plinker

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The only time I use a tap for general thread chasing is when there is no chaser tap in that size. I've had trouble where a tap wont start correctly due to the flutes (too much gap and it gets off center).
 

ChevyEFI

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I'll be ordering the socket set. Lisle the Best?
Thanks for the comments
They're probably the best balance of price. The set with more pieces is $35 online. The few times I've used them, they saved time. And they make for better access than any tap wrench I had.
 

davethorik

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I should add, that these parts are S7/D2 and will go to heat treat after this op. They are drilled/tapped oversize, they're 1-1/8" thick discs about 9" in diameter. 3/8-16. The holes on the backside get chambered by hand on a drill press by operator.

Chamfering a threaded hole usually kicks up a burr, in most cases if not caught before HT, you will not be able to thread the bolt fully. Then out come the carbide taps. So fragile and ludicrously expensive. Much easier to fix before HT. And quicker too using tap in the cordless drill.
 

Fluelikesymptoms

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Say it twice for good measure

Apex taps, and apex tap sockets.

If you use a die alot, you could even weld it to the top of a tap socket and use that with your 1/4 impact.

If you are planning on running 400 taps on a project of that size, you are asking for a lot of demand from that tap and that tap holder.

Get you a good tap holder and double up on taps.
 
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sberry

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Granted the couple of engine schools I have been to were a long time ago used taps for cleaning but,, they are not removing any threads, they are cleaning, they clean better than a rethreader.
 

OccupantRJ

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There are standard profile tap handles made that fit onto a 3/8 drive ratchet. I have a couple around the shop. There are also ratcheting tap handles. For one off use you can press a hex nut onto the square shank of the tap.
 

Two Speed

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Serious question... what's the difference?

A regular tap has the potential to oversize the threads from their original size, not every tap is the same dimensionally.

A thread chaser tap is big enough to clean out the threads and not cut the thread bigger and losing thread engagement as a result.
 

kythri

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A regular tap has the potential to oversize the threads from their original size, not every tap is the same dimensionally.

A thread chaser tap is big enough to clean out the threads and not cut the thread bigger and losing thread engagement as a result.

WTF?

Thread chasers clean and re-form existing threads

Taps cut new threads, running the risk of bunging the threads/wholes beyond repair.

If taps aren't the same size dimensionally, then they're worthless as taps.
 

M6erfan

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Taps are for cutting new threads, and rethreading taps are for cleaning and reforming threads.

Cleaning with a tap can undercut the threads, removing material that shouldn’t be removed.

A regular tap has the potential to oversize the threads from their original size, not every tap is the same dimensionally.

A thread chaser tap is big enough to clean out the threads and not cut the thread bigger and losing thread engagement as a result.

Right. Sberry said he uses taps to clean, not re-form. I thought taps are for cutting new threads, and re-threaders/restorers are for "cleaning". Still confused lol :headscrat
 
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davethorik

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WTF?

Thread chasers clean and re-form existing threads

Taps cut new threads, running the risk of bunging the threads/wholes beyond repair.

If taps aren't the same size dimensionally, then they're worthless as taps.

There are different fitment classifications for threads. That are slightly different sized. There is probably a better explanation in machinery's handbook, but a 3/8-16 GH3 is a standard fitment tap, and GH5 is slightly oversize.
 

davethorik

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Also, if a thread is dirty or is lightly dinged up, you can run a standard tap in the hole and it might make some metal flakes where the dings are, but otherwise it won't cut new material out of the thread itself. Unless you jam it in crooked or something...path of least resistance and all that. Taps aren't that evil.

If the thread is clean and good you can thread a tap in by hand like you can hand start bolts.
 

OccupantRJ

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I will leave this chart here for those who think that a tap is just a tap relative to a basic size.
 

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manwithtools

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I will leave this chart here for those who think that a tap is just a tap relative to a basic size.

One thing to bear in mind about tap sizes and that chart, even if you move from an H3 to an H5, it's only .001" larger. It's far more likely that the original taped holes in the block were already undersized due to the tap being worn in a production environment.

Cleaning up the the threads with a properly sized tap will not cause the earth to stop turning. It just might end up making the threads their intended size.
 

OccupantRJ

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One thing to bear in mind about tap sizes and that chart, even if you move from an H3 to an H5, it's only .001" larger. It's far more likely that the original taped holes in the block were already undersized due to the tap being worn in a production environment.

Cleaning up the the threads with a properly sized tap will not cause the earth to stop turning. It just might end up making the threads their intended size.

Exactly. I have been machining for about 40 years, and I use a tap to refresh a tapped hole. Just be sure to use the lower H range. Some of these people would freak to see a form tap at work.
 

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