Hex key Steel question

[bsaint]

So I have Bondhus, Eklind (Looks like Snapon uses this brand too), and Wera. The Eklind bend easy when removing fasteners with loctite behind them. They also lack a chamfer. The Bondhus seem to have lasted, with heavy use, 3 years so far. Very little twisting on sizes 3mm and below. Well I lost my 3mm so I replaced it with an unknown "Premium" brand from McMaster Carr. Turns out its Wera. Its marked with "951" on it. I figure its the steel grade. After looking at Bondhus site, I notice they use their own alloy "Protanium" and Eklind uses 8650.

My question is, who else uses 8650? I want to stay away from them.

 

[Gtamazing]

Not to sure about the 8650 but the Gray Canada hex keys are S2. The S2 is pretty strong but on a stuck fastner they flex alot. However the flex can be used to your advantage by turing them quickly and using the kinetic energy stored in the steel the break the fastner loose. But on a hard jerk when the energy is released it can be tough on the hands.

 

[reptilezs]

i use hex bit sockets and a ratchet to break loose tough screws. the kick back when using a regular L key is too much.

 

[afazz]

While on the subject, I'm also interested in some high quality hex keys. Most of the guys at work use Bondhus, I just bought some PB Swiss and they seem great so far. I agree Eklind isn't the best, their t-handles ****.

The 951 looks like a Wera part number or series number, their website lists keys as "950 series." Matweb doesn't list any steels with 951 in the name, I'm guessing that's not the alloy.

 

[Deskmechanic]

i want some of the PB swiss ones. I have a really nice set of Craftsman (I think they are Elklind?? OEM)

 

[afazz]

The new Craftsmans are made in China and junk. I have an older USA made set and they work well, I just bought a new set and they're garbage. The finish is rough, the edges aren't deburred, they're soft, and you practically need pliers to remove them from the plastic carrying case.

 

[Deskmechanic]

These are old Craftsman made in USA. They do not have the style I have any more.

 

[Steve_P]

Not to sure about the 8650 but the Gray Canada hex keys are S2. The S2 is pretty strong but on a stuck fastner they flex alot. However the flex can be used to your advantage by turing them quickly and using the kinetic energy stored in the steel the break the fastner loose. But on a hard jerk when the energy is released it can be tough on the hands.

S2 is a premium tool steel; nothing cheap about it.

The deflection issue is your imagination. Per a consistant geometry, all steels basically "flex" the same vs the same load until they yield. this is defined by the variable E, the "modulus of elasticity" (young's modulus). What this means is that a 1/2 round bar made of mild steel will flex the same under the same loading as the same dimension bar loaded the same made from a superior steel of 4340 (chrome moly), or S2. E is typically 30X10^6psi for all carbon and alloy steels (look it up on matweb.com). Stainless steels are a bit lower at ~28x10^6 but not much difference. WHat you pay for in premium steels like 4340 and S2, besides ability to harden to higher levels, is the higher yield point- they will not permanently deform until they reach a significantly higher load (stress) than a mild steel. But they deflect ~ the same under the same load for same geometry below their yield point

IIRC 86XX is a premium steel typically used for gears.

 

[bsaint]

While on the subject, I'm also interested in some high quality hex keys. Most of the guys at work use Bondhus, I just bought some PB Swiss and they seem great so far. I agree Eklind isn't the best, their t-handles ****.

The 951 looks like a Wera part number or series number, their website lists keys as "950 series." Matweb doesn't list any steels with 951 in the name, I'm guessing that's not the alloy.

Europe has different numbering for alloys than us.

 

[Walterchang]

I have snaped several craftsman hex keys, I don't even bother taking them back to Sears. Bondhaus is by far my favorite and fairly decently priced. I have bought 2 Stanely sets from Walmart and cut them down to be shorties. For the price $14~ it is worth it.

I especially like how the Bondhaus T handles are metal in the handle instead of plastic.

 

[littletoes]

Stripped the ball off of a Bondhus 5/32" T today, but its been used steady for the last 7 years or so. I just hate to lay it aside....guess I'll just trim it down and use it as a straight one.

I've had good luck with Snap-On, Proto, and Bondhus. The last one being the one I've used the most, by over 1000 times more, on a daily bases.

Broken a few of the "types" that are 3/8" socket driven. Mostly broken the Snap-On ones, but those are the only one's I've used. Have a few other brands, but I just don't use 'em.

If the Wiha were a bit easier to be had, I'd try them too. Just hard to buy anything off of the internet, much easier to buy locally.

Torx sockets/allen types too. Broken/worn out a few of these too, yet I don't own any that are "L" shaped, but I need to pick some up.

Wonder if Bondhus makes any torx types?

 

[Stuey]

PB Swiss uses a spring steel that you might like. But they're pretty costly.

 

[Elroy]

S2 is a premium tool steel; nothing cheap about it.

The deflection issue is your imagination. Per a consistant geometry, all steels basically "flex" the same vs the same load until they yield. this is defined by the variable E, the "modulus of elasticity" (young's modulus). What this means is that a 1/2 round bar made of mild steel will flex the same under the same loading as the same dimension bar loaded the same made from a superior steel of 4340 (chrome moly), or S2. E is typically 30X10^6psi for all carbon and alloy steels (look it up on matweb.com). Stainless steels are a bit lower at ~28x10^6 but not much difference. WHat you pay for in premium steels like 4340 and S2, besides ability to harden to higher levels, is the higher yield point- they will not permanently deform until they reach a significantly higher load (stress) than a mild steel. But they deflect ~ the same under the same load for same geometry below their yield point

IIRC 86XX is a premium steel typically used for gears.

One little problem here. The lower hardness material is going to reach it's yield point sooner than the harden material and that's exactly the point where a good hard *** allen wrench is going to work where a softer material lays over and plays dead.

You'll know when you have your hands on a good allen wrench as they'll fail in tension and not simply twist or bend.

 

[Wakefield]

It seems to me that more expensive steel is likely to "ring" like a tuning fork more musically when tapped with a plastic or wood object than cheaper steel. For instance a Snapon wrench of a certain size vs. a Craftsman of the same size.

 

[Wera Tools]

Europe has different numbering for alloys than us.

The information from afazz is correct. 950 is our series number for hex-keys, not the steel type, which is proprietary.
However, as with any tool, it is not just the type of steel used to produce the product, but (more importantly) the methods used for hardening and tempering the finished product that determine it's strength and durability.

 

[Gtamazing]

These are the Gray Canada they can be had for about $20-$25 a set. I've only ever broke one once it was a 6mm that I had a pipe on. I had a new one that afternoon via warranty.

 

[TheGrooveking]

S2 is in the "shock" steel category, which means it is designed for shock/impact, many a forging hammer/tool is made from "S" steel. Which means it is designed to hold its shape.
As to the twisting action that has more to do with the tempering of it, the hex keys need to be hard to retain their shape, but soft to a point not to shatter when twisted. I started using Eklind hex keys in 1980 and as soon as I bought my first Bondhus set, about 1982, there was no going back. I've had decent luck with Allen brand hex keys.

TheGrooveking

TheGrooveking