Hex socket head extractors ?

[SRSemenza]

Anybody have these? Do they work? Limited reviews on UT.

https://www.powerbuilt.com/collecti...metric-hex-bit-socket-set-for-damaged-bolts-1

Thanks,

Seth

 

[kbeefy]

I have the MAC ones, little different than those.

And alot more expensive...

 

[SRSemenza]

How well do the MAC work?

Seth

 

[kbeefy]

OK, as with any extractor, there is a limit to what can be saved.

 

[kbeefy]

I've had better luck with left handed drill bits.

 

[engineer2]

I've used the DeWalt bolt extractors for screws but haven't had the pleasure of trying them on socket head screws.

 

[Renegade1LI]

I have been using the Ridgid extractors for years, I think they are the best ones out there, not the cheapest though. Like any tool of this nature patience & experience pay off, just like tapping threads. I have removed lots of broken bolts with these, if you get the #25 set it comes with the pipe extractors too.

Ridgid Tools 35590 Extractor Set 25 | AceTool.com

The Ridgid Tools 35590 Extractor Set 25 is available at AceTool

www.acetool.com

Amazon.com

 

[purplezr2]

Typically I just pound a torx or triple square into rounded out hex bolts. For the most part it has worked great. If that doesn't work weld a nut to it and use a impact, combination of heat and shock usually gets it out.

 

[BolognaBlake]

I have a set. They work OK. Better than a standard hex, but maybe not as well as pounding in the next size up Torx.

I bought them because I had a Mercedes fan clutch that was stripped, I needed to get it done that day, and I don't have a Mac guy in my town. O'Riley had the Zeons in stock in stock.

Nothing ended up working in my situation. After the Zeon failed, I ended up pulling the radiator and pounding in a torx socket, and that broke too. Ultimately, I ended up die grinding the head off to get the fan clutch off and heating and welding a nut on.

I think if used after the the first slip, or on smaller fasteners when they look and feel angry they would be beneficial.

 

[Steve_P]

I have a few sets by "sock it out". It's a simple design, and different from the powerbuilt. They work well, but like anything else, there is a limit to how much destruction they will successfully function with. I bought my sets years ago, I think from McMaster.

 

[Boogerman]

Like these best, limited sizes unfortunate:

62900 Super Out Set

A SUPER STRONG extractor set made of a special hardened, shock-resistant tool steel.

www.lislecorp.com

Like these also:

61980 Stripped Screw Extractor Set, 10pc.

Six Lobed Spiral Bits are Designed to Remove Rounded or Stripped Fasteners with Internal Drive Heads.

www.lislecorp.com

Expensive, but even better:

SO ones damaged easily, need warranty often. Mine always new, use warranty.

Ridgid ones another post above are also sold blue point, for more money. Buy ridgid instead, except need warranty lot, bp better deal.

 

[dogdog]

I lost confidence on that power build brand when the o2 sensor socket cracked in half. I think pepboys sells this power build brand. same as this store worse craps are sold there.

if you are looking for bolt extractor I have the OEM brand ones that perform pretty decent. but you have to drill through to relief the tension in order for a successful extraction on stuborn bolts. That means get a drill guide and a low speed high torque drill.

saying that, I don't think those Powerbuild hex extractors worked too well... cut a slot on the hex with a dremel tool and use a hand impact bit on it worked a lot better for me... at least on those dam VW hex / torx bolts... not even sure why Germans love torx and hex...

 

[bwringer]

We seem to have two parallel discussions here, extractors in general and the actual topic, extractors intended for hex socket head fasteners. Reading comprehension r hard.

Anyhoo, I can say that the Wera Hex Plus hex keys have actually been able to get the job done on worn and sketchy fasteners when regular bits or keys could not. You can't expect them to do any good if you've hogged the thing out entirely, but I've been pretty surprised at how well they work when there's something left to work with.

Hex-Plus

Hex socket screws with rounded out heads are not uncommon. Working on these screws is usually difficult and frustrating. We took a close look at the hexagon form and improved it. Screwdrivers with Hex-Plus have a larger contact surface, and prevent the destruction of the screw head, providing up...

www-de.wera.de

These actually flex and dig in somehow.

I have not heard of or tried those Powerbuilt jobbies.

 

[Steve_P]

The Lisle bits above look like a Torx. And the SO set looks like what I have from Irwin - just general extractors....

So, how about dedicated stripped SHCS extractors?

 

[Boogerman]

The Lisle bits above look like a Torx. And the SO set looks like what I have from Irwin - just general extractors....

So, how about dedicated stripped SHCS extractors?

Here, Let Me Google That For You:





I use first Lisle on Hex Caps, work best of all kinds; not torx, hardened splines, pound in tight. Twisted Lisle strip easy; make no other kind work right after. SO kind made by Irwin, work cap screws if fit well. Strip easy though. Best cause left hand bits included; those good most times.

Best way use lisle splines; pound in, impact driver:

 

[SRSemenza]

Hmm, lots of interesting options besides the Powerbuilt set that I posted. I was curious about the Powerbuilt because it almost seems that the twist might actual just ream the socket head out even more.

Seth

 

[dstblj52]

Hmm, lots of interesting options besides the Powerbuilt set that I posted. I was curious about the Powerbuilt because it almost seems that the twist might actual just ream the socket head out even more.

Seth

That design works seen it from a lot of different people for those astro is probably the way to go for torx and Hex get the rbrt stuff either in proto or Mac colors or the half and half sold by craftsman and Dewalt Imho

 

[Iridium rand]

I always start with wera hex plus which I have yet to strip one out with yet, and they often still grab well when somebody else worked on it before and it’s already mostly stripped. Failing that, as long as it isn’t countersunk the engineer/vampliers or knipex twingrips either get it out or break the head off, at which point it’s no longer a hex screw so discussion trails off

countersunk starts with a torx bit pounded in and a manual impact driver if it grips good enough, though would really like to try the mac RBRT or those lisle spline bits. If it’s completely wallowed out then start with a left hand drill bit and failing that, it is again no longer a hex screw so general screw/bolt extraction techniques apply.