Hex Sockets?

[wjamyers]

Or maybe I can get these tomorrow instead:


Product Line: Carlyle Hand Tools

Attributes:

Socket Drive Size : 1/4"

Socket Type : Hex Bit Metric

Standard or Impact : Standard

Package Contents : (7) Sockets, (1) Nylon Socket Holder

Socket Finish : Polished Chrome

Socket Size : 1.5 mm, 2.5 mm, 2 - 6 mm

$25.20

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...Set-Hex-Bit-Metric/_/R-CHQBSH1407M_0380524564

Is Carlyle any good? I know Evercraft at Napa is pretty good

 

[MattPersman]

Bondhus has sockets now too

Wiha, VIM are also nice for cheaper than snap on money.

 

[erty67]

I need 1/4" drive because that's which small torque wrench I have (the HF one). I need to torque my throttle body to 14 ft/lbs and my 1/2" drive craftsman torque wrench only goes down to 20.

So what do you people think about this deal?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0002UNOME/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new

VIM Hand Tools SHM400 9 Pc. Metric Stubby Hex Socket Set
$30.00 shipped

Why not buy a 3/8" HF torque wrench for $10?

 

[wjamyers]

I like the 1/4" drive because it's small and will fit more places and it works with the small CMan socket driver that I already have as well as the HF torque wrench that I already have.

But I'll still likely get the HF 3/8 TW at some point.

Unfortunately, Napa can't get it today, Monday PM is best they can do. Which screws my plan pretty well.

Now I need to decide if I go to Sears to see if they have a Gearwrench individual bit or if I just wait for the Carlyle set.

If you guys were to recommend individual Hex socket bits that one could buy today at sears, lowes, home depot or Ace, what would you recommend?

 

[wjamyers]

not sure what's better, pay 5 bucks more for the VIM set with 4 larger sizes but nothing smaller than 2mm or get the Carlyle with the 1.5mm and 2.5mm... hmmm.

 

[MattPersman]

Not sure what you are doing with the sockets but I use mostly 5, 6, 8, 10, 14 and 17 in hex nothing small, this is auto repair though.

I would buy the wiha set from chads toolbox or amazon if you can wait a few days for a set. For a single socket call a snap on dealer and pick it up

 

[wjamyers]

Not sure what you are doing with the sockets but I use mostly 5, 6, 8, 10, 14 and 17 in hex nothing small, this is auto repair though.

I would buy the wiha set from chads toolbox or amazon if you can wait a few days for a set. For a single socket call a snap on dealer and pick it up

I'm a harbor freight, gearwrench, craftsman, whateverworksforaGOODprice-buying shade tree DIYer trying to keep my three cars on the road.

so a whole lot of snap-on is not really in my future, I don't think. a non-wealthy, non-pro can't justify that new item price, IMO, and I'm not the garage sale hopping type.

 

[drivesitfar]

I bought the less expensive set of craftsman (different brand name alongside the craftsman tools at Sears and can't recall it at the moment) in both metric and regular sizes to put in my tool box that rides in my car. I think they were only about $10 for each set so $20 total. they work great on my 3/8 ratchet and I've probably used them at least weekly for the last 4 years taking apart and putting together gym equipment. I went on the cheap because they were going to stay in the car. I also have a regular set of L type allen wrenches in that tool box to loosen the bolts that are on tight and to tighten the ones I want to stay, so I don't round them off with my ratchet and then have to use an easy out.

since these work so well I might spend a little more money for the nicer Craftsman set if I end up needing a set for my tool box in my garage. another tip if possible is to use the allen side of the bolt for just holding and loosen or tighten on the regular bolt side with your wrench or ratchet so you won't round out the hex side. if the bolt is rusty you might shoot it with WD or another penetrating spray before you start to loosen it.

 

[G1GRANDEUR]

proto / wiha / sk

if I need more sets, I would try wiha. because I am very satisfied with their hex screwdrivers.

 

[wjamyers]

So, the VIMs got me half way out of this jam:

I had the exact same problem. Here's a pic of the tools I used to get the first end link off which is also included at the center of the pic.

The can is CRC freeze off (not nearly as unpleasant as other brands). The picks are Harbor Freight. The Allen/Hex Sockets are VIM Hand Tools SHM400.

I had to dig out the allen bolt/stud wrench hole using the picks, the little screwdriver and the freeze off. Once I could get the allen wrench in the hole I commenced to spraying, brushing, wiping, screwing out, screwing back in, spraying, brushing, wiping, screwing out a little bit more, screwing in, repeat ad nauseum until I finally got the damn thing off. I didn't want to have to cut it off or try getting vice grips on the back side, so I took my sweet *** time. It only took me 2 hours. :violin: I expect the second one will only take a half hour now that I have my technique down, I'll do it tomorrow. I didn't want to rush it and end up screwed. Just thought I'd add my 2 cents to what's been said which was very helpful. Thanks everyone.


image by wjamyers, on Flickr

That's over here at T4R.org: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/118263-broken-sway-bar-end-links-pics-2.html#post1799506

Hopefully tomorrow will go just as well and I'll be good to go.

Thanks Garage Journal!!

 

[wjamyers]

So, the VIMs got me half way out of this jam, so far:

I had the exact same problem. Here's a pic of the tools I used to get the first end link off which is also included at the center of the pic.

The can is CRC freeze off (not nearly as unpleasant as other brands). The picks are Harbor Freight. The Allen/Hex Sockets are VIM Hand Tools SHM400.

I had to dig out the allen bolt/stud wrench hole using the picks, the little screwdriver and the freeze off. Once I could get the allen wrench in the hole I commenced to spraying, brushing, wiping, screwing out, screwing back in, spraying, brushing, wiping, screwing out a little bit more, screwing in, repeat ad nauseum until I finally got the damn thing off. I didn't want to have to cut it off or try getting vice grips on the back side, so I took my sweet *** time. It only took me 2 hours. :violin: I expect the second one will only take a half hour now that I have my technique down, I'll do it tomorrow. I didn't want to rush it and end up screwed. Just thought I'd add my 2 cents to what's been said which was very helpful. Thanks everyone.


image by wjamyers, on Flickr

That's over at T4R.org: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/118263-broken-sway-bar-end-links-pics-2.html#post1799506

Hopefully tomorrow will go just as well and I'll be good to go.

Thanks Garage Journal!!

 

[jeepinerdeep]

About 10 years ago MAC re-branded some of these import OTC ones. Certainly not 1st class but they are fairly tough, and pretty cheap. I never broke one. I have them at home now, and use Snappy's at work.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O867YG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KSPCDM/?tag=atomicindus08-20


Danggg-- got bit by an old post- sorry fellas.

 

[wjamyers]

So, the VIMs got me half way out of this jam, so far:



That's over at T4R.org: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/118263-broken-sway-bar-end-links-pics-2.html#post1799506

Hopefully tomorrow will go just as well and I'll be good to go.

Thanks Garage Journal!!

image by wjamyers, on Flickr


image by wjamyers, on Flickr

All done. Used these Febests: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C6MPQ4U/?tag=atomicindus08-20

$250 dollar job for $30 and 3.5 hours. not too bad. The VIM Sockets really saved my bacon, the holes were too corroded to just slide the sockets in so I had to hammer them in initially. They look just as good as new afterward and I didn't have to cut anything off. Good call!

we'll see if I have any problems with these. since I never wheel, I doubt I will.

 

[JonnyMac]

Theres a set of metric snap on in the classified section... much cheaprr than the truck price

 

[1foxracing]

I have the Wright Tool (metric) models.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RIMS9M/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[cagullett1]

This is funny reading this for me.... I removed my first sway bar link on my car (only work on our daily drivers) about 6 months ago. Stripped out the allen head and had to cut the thing off. Ever since I've been looking for a decent set of allen/hex sockets that won't break the bank. I've read several places that this VIM set is OEM for a handful of truck brands. I will probably be picking up a set soon.

 

[MG44]

Unfortunately even with good Allen Keys, sway bar links still strip.

The issue is a lot of Sway Bar Links come from the factory with Locking Nuts, but not the Nylon or Serrated style, they are the kind where the top of the nut digs into the sway bar. Add in a few years of corrosion and they become hard to remove. Best thing you can do is before you start trying to remove it is to hit the nut with a small mapp torch and let it heat up and try to remove. if it gets stuck we just cut them off.

On our own vehicles here, myself and my mechanics have installed sway bar link with Serrated Nuts and dab of blue lock tite. Makes it much easier to remove/reinstall without buying new links if you have to remove them for service.

 

[kelpaso1]

BONDHUS

Made in USA and Lifetime warranty.

http://www.bondhus.com/bondhus_products/index.html

 

[Dustin Pahl]

Has anyone tried these? They seem like a good deal to me. http://atdtools.com/13783

 

[youngridge]

I was just going to say the napa impacts are nice quality and nicely priced, a bit tall, so if your looking for a shorter profile get the chrome. They are npt, they are quality, tawain made, but the warranty for me is nice, walk down to the store and its replaced. Never broke one yet (I have broke other npt sockets though, cheater bars....) and they are still snug after 3 years of use. Excited to get some more carlyle tools though.

 

[shamrock12]

I noticed that alot of sets would come with 10mm hex in 3/8" drive. To me, that seems to be a tad on the small side for its size but what do you think? Would you prefer to have 10mm hex on a 3/8 or 1/2" drive?

 

[Adam.C]

10mm is the Allen size for an M12 screw. Torque for a high grade M12 is approx 110ftlbs which is about half the capability of a Snap On F80 ratchet. So no, I don't feel 3/8 drive is a tad small for this size.

Important to know the sizes, std torques values. Check my signature line for this info.

 

[SantaAna12]

I needed a set of metrics, did the deed and grabbed up a set from Walmart one holiday figuring I would buy some better. I was working on a big truck at the time, been fine, never replaced them.

I am impressed as usual Mr. Berry. You worked on the biggest, and you bought the cheapest. Good for you!

FWIW: Hex sockets are one of the last tools you want to save money on in my experience.