hexagon depth of sockets

[shockwave]

I have noticed on my snap on sockets that on some fastners the snap ons will not grip as much as my matco sockets do as the matcos have deeper depth of the hexagon than snap ons has anyone else had issues with this or notiched this before and does it give greater stregth in the socket itself

 

[refried]

I like the shorter depth of the Snap On sockets, the nut dosen't push up and get lost in the socket like a Craftsman.

 

[Conductor562]

I can honestly say that it's never been an issue for me. There may be some benefit to it somewhere, but I've never found it.

 

[Engineer61]

The advantage of a deep hexagon is that the socket can stay in place as a nut is taken off of a long stud, a short hexagon section would force the socket and ratchet to move back as the nut is rotated, and there may or may not be enough room. The advantage of a short hexagon is more on putting the nut back on as it prevents the socket from swallowing the nut.
Some prefer one, some prefer the other, it's up to you to determine which you like better.

 

[#1SomeGuy]

For the amount of time I actually start a nut by anything but hand, the short depth sockets don't make sense to me.

 

[Buckgnarly]

You can always use the old trick of filling the void with bits of paper towel in a deep broached socket, but cannot take away the shallow broached material.

 

[alan camby]

Here is a thread and another thread inside of that thread.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177104

 

[Conductor562]

Let me make sure I'm not reading something that's not here. The OP is comparing a Snap-On deepwell to a Matco deepwell and making the observation that the Matco has deeper grooves. Am I correct? If so, I'm not seeing how this really improves the functionality of the socket. A deepwell is designed for fasteners set deeper on the threaded shaft. Deeper grooves have no effect on the function unless by some chance the thickness of the nut/bolt head is greater than the depth of the grooves on the socket. Am I missing something

 

[alan camby]

Let me make sure I'm not reading something that's not here. The OP is comparing a Snap-On deepwell to a Matco deepwell and making the observation that the Matco has deeper grooves. Am I correct? If so, I'm not seeing how this really improves the functionality of the socket. A deepwell is designed for fasteners set deeper on the threaded shaft. Deeper grooves have no effect on the function unless by some chance the thickness of the nut/bolt head is greater than the depth of the grooves on the socket. Am I missing something

So is he talking about the flank drive (Snap-On's name) deal in the socket? Or are we talking Broach depth?

 

[Conductor562]

The advantage of a deep hexagon is that the socket can stay in place as a nut is taken off of a long stud, a short hexagon section would force the socket and ratchet to move back as the nut is rotated, and there may or may not be enough room. The advantage of a short hexagon is more on putting the nut back on as it prevents the socket from swallowing the nut.
Some prefer one, some prefer the other, it's up to you to determine which you like better.

I see what you're saying now. However, the odds of the room needed for the nut to back out being more than the clearance needed to get the socket over the threaded shaft would be a very rare occasion I would think. If it's a bolt head sitting flush, why would you be using a deepwell anyway

 

[Conductor562]

So is he talking about the flank drive (Snap-On's name) deal in the socket? Or are we talking Broach depth?

If I'm reading it right he's talking only about the depth of the grooves (broach) of the socket. Meaning how for up into the socket that the actual tooling extends.

 

[firebox40dash5]

I see what you're saying now. However, the odds of the room needed for the nut to back out being more than the clearance needed to get the socket over the threaded shaft would be a very rare occasion I would think. If it's a bolt head sitting flush, why would you be using a deepwell anyway

I've had that problem, or at least situations where it would be a problem if my sockets were like that. It's not the most uncommon thing in the world.

I've also had quite a few times where there's no way in hell I could get a hand onto a nut or bolt to hand-start it, but there's not enough threads to keep it from sliding too deep in even a shallow socket to grab.

Decisions, decisions!

 

[Rezeppa]

The Snapon, SK, cornwell, and many many others have the same type design. It is because it is stronger and decreases the chance of splitting a socket.

 

[BDT/NWMN]

I see what you're saying now. However, the odds of the room needed for the nut to back out being more than the clearance needed to get the socket over the threaded shaft would be a very rare occasion I would think. If it's a bolt head sitting flush, why would you be using a deepwell anyway

Unless you are working with a threaded shaft or stud that is double nutted, and you want to turn the stud and nuts as one unit.......A socket that will "swallow" both nuts is what is needed... and it may have to be a 12 point to fit the positions of the two nuts........ Another reason that many of us own multiple sets of sockets...

 

[Conductor562]

Unless you are working with a threaded shaft or stud that is double nutted, and you want to turn the stud and nuts as one unit.......A socket that will "swallow" both nuts is what is needed... and it may have to be a 12 point to fit the positions of the two nuts........ Another reason that many of us own multiple sets of sockets...

Never considered that scenario. I suppose that is one situation where a deep broach would be beneficial.

 

[shockwave]

It was with shallow or deep sockets it is mostly with taller fastners like starter or motor mojnt bolt on honda where the socket sometimes slips with swivel joint or swivel socket attached i would much rather have the socket at the end of the hex than midway somtimes as even a deep socket will not reach

 

[refried]

Unless you are working with a threaded shaft or stud that is double nutted, and you want to turn the stud and nuts as one unit.......A socket that will "swallow" both nuts is what is needed... and it may have to be a 12 point to fit the positions of the two nuts........ Another reason that many of us own multiple sets of sockets...

Do you really take the time to line up both nuts so a 12pt. will fit over both? Wouldn't a ratcheting box wrench on the lower nut be easier? or even maybe a stud remover?
I only use 12pt. sockets on 12pt. bolts, a 12pt. socket dosen't have the same contact area as a 6pt, making the chances of rounding the nut much greater. I have 6 and 12 pt. wrenches too but the 12pt. get used more because they fit bolts in areas with limited access better. if it's a high torque situation I'll use a 6pt.

 

[skiingman]

I was reorganizing my sockets the other day and wondering why on earth I bought a second 32mm deep impact. When I looked inside them I remembered one was broached too short to work on something I've forgotten

 

[BDT/NWMN]

Do you really take the time to line up both nuts so a 12pt. will fit over both? Wouldn't a ratcheting box wrench on the lower nut be easier? or even maybe a stud remover?
I only use 12pt. sockets on 12pt. bolts, a 12pt. socket dosen't have the same contact area as a 6pt, making the chances of rounding the nut much greater. I have 6 and 12 pt. wrenches too but the 12pt. get used more because they fit bolts in areas with limited access better. if it's a high torque situation I'll use a 6pt.

I have all that equipment.
I agree on using a ratcheting wrench on the lower nut when there is room to swing the wrench, and the stud turns fairly easy....

On stubborn studs, I torque them back and forth as they are removed. I favor a small breaker bar so I do not have to mess around with the reverse on a rachet... Once the stud is comming easy, I would use a ratchet.
In close quarters; I have gone in with a crowfoot socket and an extension to hold that lower nut while I tighten the top nut with a socket and a second extension.. If the two nuts tighten together, and are in a 30 degree pattern, there is no reason not to use a 12 point socket that fits over both nuts to back that stud out... If the two nuts tighten together with even flats, that is good, but it don't always happen that way.. Do yourself a favor; add a supply of grade 8 nuts and their metric counterparts to your stud removal equipment...

I have Proto stud removers in both 1/2" and 3/4" drives. Those bad boys have the wedges that come in from the sides and can be reversed to turn either direction..they will get some serious studs out, but need more room. My Craftsman 3/8" and 1/2" drive bolt/nut removers grip in counter clockwise direction only, so no torquing back and forth with the Craftsman sets....

If the studs have good threads, the jam nuts hopefully work ok for stud removal. If the stud has to be reused, The jam nuts are the winner..

Were we talking about sockets a while ago??