HF 1/2 torque for lugs - worst case?

[RoundedCorners]

It looks like Harbor Freight has their Labor Day sale going on this week, and one of the items were their line of torque wrenches. I'm saving up for a Precision Instruments split-beam 3/8th torque wrench, and I don't have a lot of cash left over for a decent 1/2. I've seen both good and bad stories about the HF offerings, and I was wondering... does it really mattered all that much for lug nuts? Should I wait to buy one of the $40 click types like the one from Tekton?

I'm going to get one of those digital torque adapters to check specs eventually. Maybe next year sometime.

 

[General Geoff]

HF torque wrench is just fine for lug nuts, and most other things too. Using a torque wrench in the first place puts you one step ahead of most.

 

[gooseadrian]

^true. I don't own HF torque wrenches but at least your torquing them down

 

[Tellingthem]

Keep mine in the truck and have used it a few times with no problems. I made sure to.get the Taiwan versions (supposedly better but who knows?) and used a 9.99 coupon from here. http://www.hfqpdb.com/coupons/78_ITEM_TORQUE_WRENCHES_1435800719.1797.jpg

 

[firworks]

I have the HF 1/2" and the 3/8". I have been using the dang out of them lately doing a ton of suspension work. I don't know that they are for sure accurate, but I did a test between them and my old Penncraft 1/2". I set the same torque on all 3 of them, I think it was maybe 50 or 60 ft-lbs? Then I torqued a bolt down with one till it clicked. Put the next on and watched the bolt and the second clicked, and the third. Without really seeing noticeable movement of the bolt. So at least the three of them seem to agree. They could all be wrong, but they will be wrong in unison!

Also during their most recent liquidation sale all their click torque wrenches were 11$. I consider that a steal for what they are. One other thing I'll say is the 1/2" has no issue at full range. I was torqueing on an axle nut last night and had it set to the full 150ft-lbs and the beam didn't bend before it clicked.

 

[Cato]

I used to rotate mine own tires for years and years without a torque wrench. I never broke a stud or warped a rotor.

Just these past few years I've been trying to take a little more pride in my mechanics.

 

[aaronrkelly]

The HF torque wrenches get consistently awesome reviews....read about them on the net.

Here is one article.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/additional-how-to/ccrp-1304-torque-wrench-testing/

 

[firworks]

My dad was recently making fun of me for following torque specs. He was a suspension mechanic earlier in life and his go to is to just use the biggest impact gun he has and drive it until it stops spinning and hopefully doesn't snap. That way it "wont come off"...

 

[RoundedCorners]

That's encouraging about the HF torques. I think I'll pick up one (or two) of them tomorrow. That coupon is cheaper than their e-mail, too. $10 vs $12.

 

[Negen]

I had to fight with a shop once for stripping my lug-nuts due to careless use of their impact air tools. I now do most of my maintenance and am learning as I go along. I too use a hf torque wrench on my lugs after having to have them replaced. Original lugnuts are not cheap by any means. The last straw that made me start my own maintenance was when the shop used spec 503 oil in my car without telling me they do not carry spec 507 oil.

 

[AmishFury]

worst case? if you need to torque at the top end of the range... it is a little on the short side

 

[uglyjacko]

Also they are the only torque wrenches I know of that comes with a lifetime warranty

 

[Skin]

Worst case? It doesn't work out of the box or breaks on its first use. Check the reviews, a lot of out of the box quality issues. To be expected at that price point. Keep in mind the HF 1/2" tops out at just 150 foot pounds so you aren't gaining much over your PI. Industry standard is usually 250. Unless you specifically need that extra 50 foot pounds i'd pass and keep saving the pennies for a good torque wrench.

The HF torque wrenches get consistently awesome reviews....read about them on the net.

Here is one article.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/additional-how-to/ccrp-1304-torque-wrench-testing/

This thread, and ultimately this "review", pops up a few times a year. Here is my response to the last one

the "review" is very sparse on the numbers when it comes to the competition. If I remember correctly all they published were HF numbers at one setting which isn't much of a test. Hiball did his own which is probably a better representation of the difference. In his test the HF had a peak swing of roughly 6% from fastener to fastener at 90 and 130 foot pounds while a Precision Instruments had a swing of 2%. Also keep in mind consistency is more important than average accuracy. If torque wrench 1 is set to 80 and hits 83 every time and torque wrench 2 is set to 80 and averages that 80 perfectly by hitting 75-85 all the time, you always want the first one, if that makes sense. HF might be great for the money but, again mixed bag thing, you don't get even close to the same QC/calibration for a $15-$20 torque wrench as you would on a $120 one. Plus what that review doesn't tell you is that the ratcheting mechanism in the HF torque wrenches is garbage and prone to breaking.

 

[Hootbro]

I always do a poor mans calibration check against a beam torque wrench when using my HF torque wrenches. Never had an issue with them.

 

[Purist]

been using my 1/2 HF torque wrench for a few years now with no issues and no signs of wearing down....pretty sure I paid $10 for it (w/ coupon) and am beyond happy with my purchase. HF ain't all bad.

 

[Adam.C]

I have the HF 1/2" and the 3/8". I don't know that they are for sure accurate, but I did a test between them and my old Penncraft 1/2".

I set the same torque on all 3 of them, I think it was maybe 50 or 60 ft-lbs? Then I torqued a bolt down with one till it clicked. Put the next on and watched the bolt and the second clicked, and the third. Without really seeing noticeable movement of the bolt. So at least the three of them seem to agree. They could all be wrong, but they will be wrong in unison!

Sorry, but your test doesn't proove anything. You can't check torques or torque wrenches like that. Some have suggested that since your fastener didn't move, you have at least the 50 or 60ftlbs, but that's not true either. The static friction could be considerable. You could have 40ftlbs in that fastener and 20ftlbs worth of resistance due to grit and grime.

Other people have checked the HF torque wrenches here and have said they are fairly accurate. My guess is that is so. Since using a torque wrench accurately takes no small amount of patience and technique, my sense is that the quality/price of the wrench plays a smaller role in producing accurate fastener preloads than people think.

To others who might be reading along, the problem I'm highlighting above is the reason engineers are specifying torque angles. The final preload is such a function of friction, engineers are skipping the torque ratings and instead offering an initial torque and then an additional angle, which is uneffected/unrelated to friction.

TTY is something else. It applies mostly to gasketed joints like engine heads. Successfully torquing a TTY fastener requires both technique and an accurate wrench.

For these reasons, my recommendation is as follows:
1) If you intend to repair engines now or in the future, start saving for a used Snap On TECHANGLE. Don't waste your money on a clicker. You can buy these second hand for not crazy money. And they don't go out of calibration easily like clickers do. Choose the 3/8" model first. Depending on what you are working on, you may or may not need the 1/2".

2) If you aren't repairing engines, and just need something to get you in the ballpark, get the cheapest torque wrench you can find and learn how to use the tool properly.

3) If you choose option 2, don't kid yourself or us about how accurate your Chinese torque wrench is. It isn't. You probably aren't either. But it's likely good enough for lug nuts, etc.

 

[lightning02]

I bought one of those once based on what everyone said and it was a flaming pos. Bought it back the next day. Never got anther. Maybe I just got a bad one. Idk.

 

[bcradio]

I bought one of those once based on what everyone said and it was a flaming pos. Bought it back the next day. Never got anther. Maybe I just got a bad one. Idk.

Thank you for explaining why it was so bad

 

[Finky198]

I bought one of those once based on what everyone said and it was a flaming pos. Bought it back the next day. Never got anther. Maybe I just got a bad one. Idk.

I used all 3 size a few times a week I have check torque with our snappy click type and digital torque box and they are close enough I wouldn't build my motor with one but for lugs and other basic stuff they are a great value

 

[RoundedCorners]

Did anyone ever do a long-term accuracy testing? I just picked up a 3/8 and the digital torque adapter. If not, I might do a test every 6 months or so, but I probably wouldn't use it all that often. Don't know if that makes a difference.

 

[Sal Bandini]

3) If you choose option 2, don't kid yourself or us about how accurate your Chinese torque wrench is. It isn't. You probably aren't either. But it's likely good enough for lug nuts, etc.

Do you have data to back up your claim. If not, then it's purely conjecture and assumptions on your part.

 

[Adam.C]

Do you have data to back up your claim. If not, then it's purely conjecture and assumptions on your part.

Yeah, there's gobs of data for all of this. Just google it and you can read to your hearts content. If you are interested in this subject google "stick slip" and torque and read up on that.

 

[d.mcfarland]

The 1/2 drive HF click type wrench works perfect. Ideally with a torque wrench like that you want to use the values in the middle of the range for best accuracy I guess and the lug nut torque follows that rule with these for most cars.

 

[CutterFarms]

I use a harbor freight 1/2 torque wrench to check lugs after I accidentally stripped a couple lug nuts on my bobcat. For me as long as it is close it's good enough for lug nuts

 

[RoundedCorners]

I just tried out the new HF torque, and the handle seems to be pretty stiff approaching going from 20-40lbs. No way I can get up to 80. I'm assuming this is a dud? Is it just "stiff"? The little knob at the bottom was turned counter-clockwise until it stopped.

 

[d.mcfarland]

Kind of strange it sounds like. Play around with it. I think on mine I had to break it in just a little.

 

[Conductor562]

Like others have said, I wouldn't think twice about using them on lugs, but I don't trust them for motor work. I'm not betting a $5,000 motor that they're right.

I've had a handful of them, but only one that I was convinced was way off from the start.

 

[Mikerodrig27]

What kind of vehicles are you working on?

I use a snapon torque wrench which is guaranteed to be withing 8ft/lbs of whatever you set it to... What this means is accuracy isn't too important. The major concerns with people installing lugnuts are overtorqing, not torquing in the correct star pattern and not torqing each lugnut evenly.

The Harbor freight wrench will get you close enough. The main concern is when you are torquing on a wheel with a rotor behind it, you could be causing a runout issue If you don't follow the star pattern and don't set the lugs to the same torque. A lot of manufactures will have a range like 67-85 in which you would just set the wrench to the middle of the range. Toyota cars will have a torque of 76 but toyota knows that this is the middle of their range. Ford Rangers are 100, hondas are 80 a lot of dodge 3/4 are 135-150ish depending what year etc.

Follow the star pattern and understand that the manufacture takes into consideration that you don't have a super precision instrument

 

[Farmerjonathan]

I find the responses about not using it on engines but lug nuts is good enough quite funny. Not good enough to keep your connecting rod on the crankpin but good enough to keep your wheels on your car, maybe?????????? Seriously, if it isn't good enough to keep your engine together, why would it be good enough to "maybe" keep your wheels on your car you use to haul you and your loved ones around at high speeds?

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... I use a torque wrench for buildin' motors,....

I've been usin' my calibrated elbow to tighten lug nuts for 'bout 5 decades, 'n never lost a wheel I put on,....

 

[RoundedCorners]

I'll be working on a couple of Hondas for the most part. The 3/8 goes up to 100, but it's probably better if I got a 1/2. There's an outside chance that I might work in my grandmother's old, old Oldsmobile as well.

 

[OutsideMachinist]

Sorry, but your test doesn't proove anything. You can't check torques or torque wrenches like that. Some have suggested that since your fastener didn't move, you have at least the 50 or 60ftlbs, but that's not true either. The static friction could be considerable. You could have 40ftlbs in that fastener and 20ftlbs worth of resistance due to grit and grime.

Other people have checked the HF torque wrenches here and have said they are fairly accurate. My guess is that is so. Since using a torque wrench accurately takes no small amount of patience and technique, my sense is that the quality/price of the wrench plays a smaller role in producing accurate fastener preloads than people think.

To others who might be reading along, the problem I'm highlighting above is the reason engineers are specifying torque angles. The final preload is such a function of friction, engineers are skipping the torque ratings and instead offering an initial torque and then an additional angle, which is uneffected/unrelated to friction.

TTY is something else. It applies mostly to gasketed joints like engine heads. Successfully torquing a TTY fastener requires both technique and an accurate wrench.

For these reasons, my recommendation is as follows:
1) If you intend to repair engines now or in the future, start saving for a used Snap On TECHANGLE. Don't waste your money on a clicker. You can buy these second hand for not crazy money. And they don't go out of calibration easily like clickers do. Choose the 3/8" model first. Depending on what you are working on, you may or may not need the 1/2".

2) If you aren't repairing engines, and just need something to get you in the ballpark, get the cheapest torque wrench you can find and learn how to use the tool properly.

3) If you choose option 2, don't kid yourself or us about how accurate your Chinese torque wrench is. It isn't. You probably aren't either. But it's likely good enough for lug nuts, etc.

I like the part about don't kid yourself about how accurate it is.I wouldn't use a HF for repairing engines either. I'll tell you what else I wouldn't use, a second hand Snapon on torque wrench that isn't/hasn't been calibrated. There are multiple companies that offer brand new torque wrenches of quality. We have a cal lab at my work and must use torque wrenches or any torque measuring device, or any precision measuring device period must be calibrated and it has an expiration date.

That said, to answer the OP's question, I am sure a HF torque wrench will be fine for lug nuts.

 

[RoundedCorners]

Do digital torque adapters ever go out of calibration (if not abused)?

 

[OutsideMachinist]

Do digital torque adapters ever go out of calibration (if not abused)?

Yes. Everything needs to be verified. That said for checking lug nut torque you should be fine.

 

[Fugio]

I had one of thr 1/2" ones and it was great. You're supposed to unload it when not in use, which is a pain in the ****, but I think all click/twist type ones work like that.

Only reason I returned it after a few weeks is because it maxed out at 150 pounds and my rear lug nuts torque to 300.

 

[ChevyEFI]

I find the responses about not using it on engines but lug nuts is good enough quite funny. Not good enough to keep your connecting rod on the crankpin but good enough to keep your wheels on your car, maybe?????????? Seriously, if it isn't good enough to keep your engine together, why would it be good enough to "maybe" keep your wheels on your car you use to haul you and your loved ones around at high speeds?

Would you hand tighten lug nuts to get home or go buy a new torque wrench?

Would you hand tighten rod or head bolts to button up an engine or go buy a new torque wrench?

 

[firworks]

I just tried out the new HF torque, and the handle seems to be pretty stiff approaching going from 20-40lbs. No way I can get up to 80. I'm assuming this is a dud? Is it just "stiff"? The little knob at the bottom was turned counter-clockwise until it stopped.

Try tightening the knob at the bottom a little. On mine you sometimes have to loosen or tighten that knob a little to get past some ranges. I think if you loosen it all the way it binds actually so I just back it off a little bit from tight rather than loosening it all the way when I am changing the torque setting.

 

[whitetrash1]

I had one of thr 1/2" ones and it was great. You're supposed to unload it when not in use, which is a pain in the ****, but I think all click/twist type ones work like that.

Only reason I returned it after a few weeks is because it maxed out at 150 pounds and my rear lug nuts torque to 300.

How big of a truck are you driving??

 

[RoundedCorners]

Try tightening the knob at the bottom a little. On mine you sometimes have to loosen or tighten that knob a little to get past some ranges. I think if you loosen it all the way it binds actually so I just back it off a little bit from tight rather than loosening it all the way when I am changing the torque setting.

Good tips. I'll try it out. I picked up a new one and it seems to go up farther, but I still need to work it a bit. I think I got a returned/open stock one last time. The latest one was still in plastic. Hopefully this one will be ok.

 

[machine_punk]

The 1/2" beam-style torque wrench from Sears goes for about $25. That's what I got to do my lug nuts.

Kev