Kaizen
Well-known member
I need to protect my hf 44 inch tool chest more then the factory lock.....assuming these are easy to circumvent. anybody weld or bolt on anything that would keep the drawers closed even if the lock was popped?
hf 44 inch toolchest added security
- Thread starter Kaizen
- Start date
bandaidmd
Well-known member
A slight variation on CJMs idea, bracket top and bottom that a flatbar that slides thru across the drawers also works well.
lutter94
Well-known member
Where is the box that it needs to be that secure?
Unfortunately it's in a tent garage. I've secured it best I can after my welder was just stolen. Sooooo any non weld ideas? Do the drawers come out so I can drill and bolt something? Bandaidmd can you explain more ? So flat bar has locks on other side of bracket?
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If I were going to steal your ****, I would take the the entire box and worry about what was in it after I got it to it's new home.........Just like your welder. Until you secure your property, expect it to get ripped off.
toddacimer
Well-known member
I'd find a safer storage location
totally agree but it is what it is. I've started making plans for an actual garage in the spring but for now I'm battening down the hatches. Trying to make it just difficult enough to stop a meth head with a crow bar. was going to chain whatever additional measure I did to a car that's in there.
lmalcomb
Well-known member
dslabuda
Well-known member
This is really bad advice but it popped into mind; have one drawer you never use and label it "Crack and Meth". Attach a hand grenade to the front of the drawer and attach the pin by wire to the box's internal framework.
Meth head opens drawer looking for the sweet spoils of crime, meth head goes boom. No more meth head. Cops usually frown upon vigilante justice however. YMMV.
Meth head opens drawer looking for the sweet spoils of crime, meth head goes boom. No more meth head. Cops usually frown upon vigilante justice however. YMMV.
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Do they make a job box big enough for a HF44'r to fit in ? Maybe stroll through CL ?
No offense but when people swear by these tent garages, I've always wondered what they do for security. Granted, if a thief wants your stuff, he'll get it, but all he needs is a pocket knife to get in a tent garage.
No offense but when people swear by these tent garages, I've always wondered what they do for security. Granted, if a thief wants your stuff, he'll get it, but all he needs is a pocket knife to get in a tent garage.
Christ talk about kicking me when I'm down. So because I couldn't afford to build a garage I shouldn't be able to enjoy welding and such? My tent - which I cherish cause it's what I have- has had some upgrades since and I am just asking for suggestions. Thanks to the helpful suggestions.
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Xauterus
Well-known member
I'd be looking at a steel cabinet big enough to put your tool box and welder etc into.
MovingAlong
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It's an imperfect world.. and here is non-perfect idea.
Bolt a couple hinges to the frame of the 44" and bold a padlock hasp to the other side. If you had some more of that sheet tin, make a door the size of the toolbox. That would provide about as much protection as the rest of the sheet metal on the box.
Or use a half sheet of 3/4" plywood to make the door covering the front of the box completely.
Or make two doors that meet in the middle and put the padlock there.
Any security system has flaws and getting your stuff stolen *****. Best you can do is make it a bit harder for them. Hard enough and they'll move on to the next guy...
I've read about guys with high-end bicycles used in the city. They rattle can spray paint them to look like $15 flea market specials. Not sure if it apply's in your instance, but a bright red toolbox may be attracting more attention then necessary. I painted my other hand toolboxes and cabinets all to match just for fun. But if I were trying to keep a low profile, they would all have ended up flat black...
Wish you only the best of luck!
Bolt a couple hinges to the frame of the 44" and bold a padlock hasp to the other side. If you had some more of that sheet tin, make a door the size of the toolbox. That would provide about as much protection as the rest of the sheet metal on the box.
Or use a half sheet of 3/4" plywood to make the door covering the front of the box completely.
Or make two doors that meet in the middle and put the padlock there.
Any security system has flaws and getting your stuff stolen *****. Best you can do is make it a bit harder for them. Hard enough and they'll move on to the next guy...
I've read about guys with high-end bicycles used in the city. They rattle can spray paint them to look like $15 flea market specials. Not sure if it apply's in your instance, but a bright red toolbox may be attracting more attention then necessary. I painted my other hand toolboxes and cabinets all to match just for fun. But if I were trying to keep a low profile, they would all have ended up flat black...
Wish you only the best of luck!
MovingAlong
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Actually, a plywood box would even serve to keep stuff out of sight. Label one door "birdseed" and the other door "dog food"... The padlock might look suspicious to folks here, but meth heads aren't always the smartest bunch.
Thanks for the constructive help. I already moved non essential items to my house and high dollar ones. I really like the blood letting revenge idea but I'm squeamish so getting rid of the body might haunt me too much. I set up a camera with text alert today so if I can slow him down with the wood front then that would be good. think i'll get some cut offs I have laying around and make a box around it with the two doors in the front and double locks or such. thanks you gave me some direction.
Nobody is kicking you when you are down. We all start somewhere, some how. I went several years without a garage and when I did get one, it's taken some serious sweat equity and working tons of OT ($$$) to get it where it is today. My **** has been broken in and I've had stuff stolen too, I know it *****.
bandaidmd
Well-known member
I will try to explain, take a short piece of flat steel maybe 1/4"x2" and cut a slot in it that a piece of 1" wide will slide thru, do this at the top and bottom of the cabinet with a padlock on each end. You can bolt the brackets on since the nuts won't be accessible with the drawers bar locked.
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d.mcfarland
Well-known member
Is the box secured to the ground?
jwhcars
Well-known member
Get some 4x4 posts and set them in concrete. Glue and screw a frame and enclose the box.
ibedayank
Well-known member
small enclosed trailer to store tools... build a shed... keep tools in the house... get a big mean dog that hates everyone but you!!!!
Mr. Roboto
Well-known member
Is the floor concrete out there? You could lag 2 4x4s turned on their side into the concrete with masonry fasteners, and then lag the box to those (remove the wheels) from the inside of the box with the drawers removed. This would prevent them from snatching the whole box in a hurry. I knew a few people who have gone the shipping container route as well adjacent to their tents. They can be acquired relatively cheap if you can find a deal, and are very secure. You could store all your tools in there and come and go as needed.
Here is what I ended up doing. Only had a flux welder so looks horrible and to cold to paint but it functions perfectly. Under twenty bucks in new steel and scrap. I did chain the box down and added cameras with alarms to my phone. Might do another for the other side but this lets me sleep a little better. The lock is in the top part and the spear on the lock keeps the lock aligned. When open the bat stock slides up and out . When locked the lock engages the notch. I cut the slots in the upper pieces so if hit with hammer on either side it locks in more
Thanks for all the ideas
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Thanks for all the ideas
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Here is what I ended up doing. Only had a flux welder so looks horrible and to cold to paint but it functions perfectly. Under twenty bucks in new steel and scrap. I did chain the box down and added cameras with alarms to my phone. Might do another for the other side but this lets me sleep a little better. The lock is in the top part and the spear on the lock keeps the lock aligned. When open the bat stock slides up and out . When locked the lock engages the notch. I cut the slots in the upper pieces so if hit with hammer on either side it locks in more.
What's the tab for on the shackle ? Does that shackle come completely out of the pad lock and acts like a handle when you lock it ?
What did you do for the smaller drawers on the right, same thing ?
Jazz1
Well-known member
Christ talk about kicking me when I'm down. So because I couldn't afford to build a garage I shouldn't be able to enjoy welding and such? My tent - which I cherish cause it's what I have- has had some upgrades since and I am just asking for suggestions. Thanks to the helpful suggestions.
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My brother found some used tin he fastened to his portable garage when cover fell apart. If they took your welder they are coming back. Anchoring tool chests to something (old engine block) wrap chests with cable or chain..you are in a tough spot.
The tab goes through a hole in the left that is about that size. the lock is a standard lock so the tab keeps it aligned so pushing in on the tab locks it. the lock can slide out the right side. I thought about making it so the lock won't move but then saw when its locked around the bar its not going to move.
This set up stops them from easily cutting the lock as the shackle is hidden when locked. in the right drawers I put all my cheaper tools. i'll probably repeat this on that side as well if I like it.
Yea. just a few months and i'm starting on a proper garage. In case it was anyone around here that did it I made sure my sidearm was visible when I was asking and telling the neighborhood. The alarm notifies me in thirty seconds via a text. I've added IP cameras as well. I did close off and lock it so they aren't going to just walk in again. I made sure I left the edges sharp on the metal in case they try. I did move high dollar tools like torque wrenches to my house basement as well.
A**holes Garage
Banned
I've secured many things to my truck, home side gates, etc. by fabricating some type of plate and then utilizing these security nuts;
http://www.tannerbolt.com/products/...SECURITY-TRIDENT-NUTS-ZAMAK-5-ZINC-ALLOY.aspx
I usually weld a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" tube around them so they cannot be tampered with from the side using screwdrivers, vice-grips, etc.
http://www.tannerbolt.com/products/...SECURITY-TRIDENT-NUTS-ZAMAK-5-ZINC-ALLOY.aspx
I usually weld a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" tube around them so they cannot be tampered with from the side using screwdrivers, vice-grips, etc.
Jazz1
Well-known member
jclem40c
Well-known member
Motion light and a 1911. Problem solved.
63spyder
Well-known member
Hook up a fence shocker, meth head would swear he's getting electrocuted.lol
Trick question... you can't stop a meth head with a crow bar.
Even with your current modifications, I think you'll also want to consider some level of camouflage for your box. It could be as simple as building a 2x4 and plywood cabinet for it to fit inside of so its not obvious there is a toolbox in your garage. Anchoring it to something solid is also probably still a good idea too. Like others have mentioned, taking the whole box is still a possibility and a couple of cranked out tweakers would have no trouble lifting a 300lb toolbox into the back of a truck.
