HF 4x6 Bandsaw usage

[Pingel85]

Good morning all-

I recently picked up a new HF 4x6 bandsaw for some of the metal work I’ve been doing. So far really enjoy the saw but have a few questions.

1. Any good write ups or videos on proper saw usage (downfeed setting). First time using a horizontal so I’m just guessing here. I have the downfeed backed almost all the way out, of the spring, but am still getting little powder chips, not curls. I looked up the Grizzly manual and it says increase downfeed. Do I need to add a counter weight too? Cutting 3/16” tubing with a brand new Ellis 10/14 bimetallic blade at 120fpm.

2. Any good blade recommendations? I picked up the Ellis because it was convenient, and never use a saw mfg blade, so when this one wears out, what do you recommend next? Have been reading about the Lenox, Irwin, and the Imachinisht which gets the best amazon reviews.

3. Any other current mod/usage write ups or videos I should be looking at. I’ve googled the snuff out of this, but everything is from the early 2000s and lots of broken links. I watched the ghost set up video and have the saw cutting square.

Thanks all

 

[jmarkwolf]

Have you searched Youtube?

 

[davewo]

Go ahead and push down on the head and see what the chips looks like. I'm not too familier with the HF bandsaw, but I'm guessing the head is light and the lift-assist spring isn't helping. I have an old JET 4x6 and the head is quite heavy. It takes a good chip.

 

[Whiskeymike]

I've had mine for about 4 years and it's great. I had big plans to mod it with the huge amount of support that's out there for it. But your right, it's slowly starting to disappear with sites going down or images being lost. I've often thought there needs to be a way to preserve all of this information as it's still valid.

I find the chip output often depends on the material I'm cutting. If it's 2-4" square tube, I get long chips, but anything that doesn't have significant surface area gives powder, but it hasn't been a negative. For tension, I crank it down until the band starts slipping and then back it off.

For blades, I use the blades from HF. I like the price and availability. I tried third party and didn't find them as good. I don't know if it's still the case, but I remember reading that the blade that HF sells is made by a major good manufacturer and relabeled.

I think the main mods to consider are the legs. They are not very stiff/stable. I also would have good in feed/out feed. Most of my issues over the years was because I was lazy and didn't support long tube on in/out. But as you mentioned, there's a ton of mods out their all the way to making a coolant tray, auto oil drip, etc.. I just don't use it for hours at a time where I can't stand there and spray some cutting oil occasionally.

Enjoy.

 

[matt_i]

Imo you shouldnt be getting curls. Likely you cant actually get a curl-y chip in steel.

I look for chips that look like gold flakes you'd pan out of a river (but silver-y).

Push too hard and a horizontal will cut a banana shaped kerf which is not ideal.

The thing that can mess you up is thin vertical sections found in things like unistrut or .062"/16ga wall square tubing. If you set an aggressive downfeed then the saw can strip teeth if left unattended going thru those parts.

Along those lines be careful cutting angle iron with peak-up and spot the saw-head gently into those type of cuts. Break-in of the blade by going easy on it for 10-12 cuts will result in a longer life.

 

[LeeG]

Here's the guide I followed.

https://wiki.hsbne.org/_media/tools/4x6bandsawadjust.pdf

 

[rattle_snake]

I have found that the down feed pressure is not that critical. I cut all types of metal without changing spring preload. start cut and walk away. I use 10-14 bi-metal blades available at HF (made in USA).

I have not had to re-adjust the saw since new. If cutting crooked, put a new blade on. I use it every day.

 

[Monza Harry]

May I suggest for cutting tubing that you use/buy/make a "Vee Block" put this on the movable jaw so it holds your tubing such that it presents itself to the blade in "Diamond" position. This will let you ease the balde in at the top of the cut [onto the corner] and then this will increase the wall stock the blade sees and it will be even all the way until it is just about finished breaking out of the last single corner, your blade will last longer and cut faster through the tube. Don't be afraid to let the saw cut ~quickly, too slow is as bad as too fast. For coolant you can fashion a dripper from a 2L pop bottle some hose and an aquarium valve. Use the valve to control the air coming into the bottle and just put a small tube to the blade/steel interface, then just let it drip, fill with actual coolant/WD-40/ used motor oil [cut to thin with varsol/diesel] etc. make sure it isn't flammable though. As the snake mentioned down feed will end up being used in a very narrow band most of the time really not much adjustment needed. and also very important for blade life. You NEED at least 3 teeth engaged at all times. 16 pitch and 1/8 material for instance has only 1 tooth engaged for a split second as the last one leaves the third one has only just touched and not truly engaged yet, 1/8 [16/20 may be ok dependant on the actual variable pitch layout] needs at least an 18 pitch to cut properly. Harry

 

[BD1]

When using a new blade for first cut , HOLD saw and feed slowly for blade breakin. It does make a difference.

 

[danielbuck]

For my larger bandsaw, if I remember correctly the blade break in is something like this:

Solid round stock of steel minimum of 1" thick (larger would be better). Do 10 cuts in a row with normal blade speed, but with light pressure. Then a few at full normal cutting pressure.

It must have worked, because I hardly ever change blades. I use that opportunity to cut "thick" washers/spacers. throw the blanks on the lathe and drill a hole through them for whatever size I want.

 

[aka Larry]

For coolant you can fashion a dripper from a 2L pop bottle some hose and an aquarium valve. Use the valve to control the air coming into the bottle and just put a small tube to the blade/steel interface, then just let it drip, fill with actual coolant/WD-40/ used motor oil [cut to thin with varsol/diesel] etc.

I used a small 2-stroke oil mix bottle, plastic ice maker tubing and valve. I use any spare oil I have in the shop like 10W-30 or whatever.

You NEED at least 3 teeth engaged at all times. 16 pitch and 1/8 material for instance has only 1 tooth engaged for a split second as the last one leaves the third one has only just touched and not truly engaged yet, 1/8 [16/20 may be ok dependant on the actual variable pitch layout] needs at least an 18 pitch to cut properly. Harry

This is the biggest issue I have with mine. I mainly use 1" x 0.065" wall square tubing for my projects and if you just drop the blade and walk away, it will either break a tooth, or pop the blade off the rollers.

I started with the variable pitch blades, but like with most things designed for multi-purpose use, they aren't really good at either. If I'm cutting 3/16" steel angle, I can use the Ron Popeil method of "set it and forget it", but otherwise I have to babysit it, and limit the head's cutting weight (via my hand) to match the thin-walled stock.

I have an Evolution chop saw saw I now use for quick cuts, and it's good, but the Jet bandsaw still makes a cleaner, quieter, and less messy cut, though it's a lot slower.

 

[fordkid88]

I have an evolution chop saw and hardly use it since I got a hf band saw. Quieter the better, I'm hardly in a rush at home

 

[StormcrowAz]

Mine is going on 2+ years now and has been doing great. Use it all the time and my chop saw sits neglected. Replacing the flimsy stand and adding a cooling system were my big modifications. I hear a lot of “I use mine dry all the time” and “don’t like the mess”, but it’s been worth it for my peace of mind, knowing it’s cutting cool. I think the $9 HF pond pump is starting to finally give up the ghost as it doesn’t always fire up on the first flip of the switch. I have a new one as back-up for when it goes.

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It’s not even close to being that clean now. I just recently changed the gearbox oil and replaced the cover with a clear piece of plexi-glass because I thought it was a neat idea.
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[aka Larry]

I really like your setup Todd! Mine has wheels, but it's not easy to move, and is easy to tip when doing so, hence a broken cover on mine.

Can you share more details about all of it? I might want to copy it myself.

 

[StormcrowAz]

Larry - Thanks! I documented most of it in "Ernie's Place", starting around post #211. I project squirreled a little and gets back to bandsaw business around post #222. Happy to answer any questions. Haven't had any tipping issues with this size/design. Only thing I wish I did different was extend the top tray out another three inches under the motor (basically same length as the bottom). If you tilt it all the way vertical right after making a cut, there's a good chance a few drops of coolant will hit the floor.

 

[aka Larry]

Larry - Thanks! I documented most of it in "Ernie's Place", starting around post #211. I project squirreled a little and gets back to bandsaw business around post #222. Happy to answer any questions. Haven't had any tipping issues with this size/design. Only thing I wish I did different was extend the top tray out another three inches under the motor (basically same length as the bottom). If you tilt it all the way vertical right after making a cut, there's a good chance a few drops of coolant will hit the floor.

Thanks for the info, I will check it out!

While cruzing the net today I found this hydraulic feed cylinder, which may interest you and others who have a similar saw. I think I'm going to get one for mine.

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

If you can adjust the feed better you can cut thin material easier.

 

[Richard D]

Longer moveable jaw. I did something similar, but I used a heavy piece of angle with a hole tapped for a jack screw. This allows the holding of small stock.


http://www.mini-lathe.com/Bandsaw/Bandsaw.htm#Holding

 

[StormcrowAz]

While cruzing the net today I found this hydraulic feed cylinder, which may interest you and others who have a similar saw. I think I'm going to get one for mine.

I couldn’t help it…I’m blaming you, Larry!
20200619_161249

Installation wasn’t so cut-and-dry with the custom cart. My design has the two risers lifting the saw above the catch-tray, so that’s in the way of the cylinder and tubing. Thought about moving it over a couple inches and just shortening the all-thread, but I’d still have to remove and re-attach that tubing if I ever wanted to remove or replace the whole assembly. Ended up just cutting that end of that support bracket out and it fits fine. I’ll have to add that support back in another way. Add that to my to-do list.
20200620_091927

The bolt going through where the spring clipped in was a little too long and hit the saw base. Had to shave that down a bit. Other than that, seems to work as advertised. The seller had it shipped within a couple hours of my placing the order. Good service!
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[aka Larry]

Looks great Todd!

Have you used it yet? How do you like it? Do you recommend I pull the trigger and get one?

 

[StormcrowAz]

Not yet, no. Did this in-between other, higher-priority, projects. I only ran the action up and down a few times, but sure does seem like it will be nice. Hope to get some free time after work this week to square away the base mounting issue. It's pretty sturdy with just the three points of attachment now, but would feel better if all four were on the floor before I hit the gas.

I'll follow-up when it's back up and running.

 

[Bigbandguy]

Lots and lots of 4 x 6 bandsaw info here:

https://groups.io/g/4x6bandsaw

 

[csp]

Looks great Todd!

Have you used it yet? How do you like it? Do you recommend I pull the trigger and get one?

I don't know if it interests you to make your own, but I'm into mine for less than $50. My cylinder is actually a pneumatic cylinder that I got from Surplus Center. It doesn't look like they carry the same one any longer.

There are a few on this thread: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=443813

 

[xman_charl]

modified work holding table

sure works good...

Charl

 

[aka Larry]

I don't know if it interests you to make your own, but I'm into mine for less than $50. My cylinder is actually a pneumatic cylinder that I got from Surplus Center. It doesn't look like they carry the same one any longer.

There is a video on YouTube where a guy lists part numbers for the cylinder and check valve, but as he stated, by the time you buy all the components (cylinder, clevis, valves, etc) you'll be into it for over $100 easy. I looked up the components and confirmed that figure.

So you have the details on your setup for it to be duplicated? From what I gathered, you need a double-acting pneumatic cylinder, check valve, and needle valve at a bare minimum.

 

[StormcrowAz]

modified work holding table

sure works good...

Charl

Lengthening the moving vise jaw and adding a jack-screw is something I’d like to do (one of these days). Typically I find another piece of the same material and put it in the back of the jaw, basically the same effect. Sure would be nice to just use an adjustable screw, though.


Finished up the saw last night. Added in another support to replace the one removed for cylinder clearance. Did a test cut and it works as advertised. Controlled cut speed and very nice not to have to hold the thing up with my stomach while trying to line up a scribe mark tighten the vise at the same time. I’m only one test piece in…but thinking I should have done this mod sooner!
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[csp]

There is a video on YouTube where a guy lists part numbers for the cylinder and check valve, but as he stated, by the time you buy all the components (cylinder, clevis, valves, etc) you'll be into it for over $100 easy. I looked up the components and confirmed that figure.

So you have the details on your setup for it to be duplicated? From what I gathered, you need a double-acting pneumatic cylinder, check valve, and needle valve at a bare minimum.

Sorry, no details. I bought what I knew was necessary and didn't keep track of part numbers etc.

Air cylinder can be had for about $30, needle valve ~$15, various other NPT fittings maybe $20. I had most of the brass parts already as well as a piece of fuel hose and clamps. I have no idea why you'd need a check valve as fluid has to flow both directions.

I suppose if you go to Grainger and buy everything there you could top the $100 mark, but I didn't have to even try to stay well below that.

 

[3v0]

Not all blades are created equal even if they are of the same type. I like my variable pitch blade. Routinely cut steel and cast aluminum.