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HF Auto Drain Kit

engnerdan

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 18, 2007
Messages
316
Location
Minnesota
I recently picked up a couple of the air compressor auto drain kits from Harbor Freight. I am guessing they are just **** but I can’t get them to vent for more then 1/2 a second which is not nearly long enough to clear the moisture in my tank. Has anybody else had any luck or trouble with these auto drains?

Thanks
Dan
 
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Roospike

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Jun 21, 2005
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291
Location
Mid-West
Hahahaha , You said Harbor Freight ........hahahah. :lol_hitti

Once again, another harbor freight problem thread . :headscrat

( yanking yer chain)
 

Phatsub

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Joined
May 10, 2007
Messages
680
Location
Ridgecrest, CA
I shop HF all the time. And the closest one to me is an hour and a half away.
I have yet to be dissapointed with anything I've bought from them.
 

eschoendorff

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Joined
Feb 6, 2005
Messages
8,991
Location
Michigan
I have one of those auto drains on one of my compressors. It works well if you use the compressor frequently, but since I don't, mine must have some sediment build up in it or something because it is stuck open. I was never really all that impressed with the HF auto drain anyway. I am going to take it off and just drain by hand from now on.

PS... I have one new in a box (like an idiot, I bought two of them) if you want to try it....
 
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engnerdan

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Joined
Apr 18, 2007
Messages
316
Location
Minnesota
I have one of those auto drains on one of my compressors. It works well if you use the compressor frequently, but since I don't, mine must have some sediment build up in it or something because it is stuck open. I was never really all that impressed with the HF auto drain anyway. I am going to take it off and just drain by hand from now on.

PS... I have one new in a box (like an idiot, I bought two of them) if you want to try it....

Hey I bought two of them too, but I am interested in the spare you have, what do you want for it?
 

Rrumbler

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Joined
Aug 4, 2005
Messages
367
Location
Las Vegas, Nevada
It's too humid where you live, Dan. The HF kit operates in conjunction with the unloader valve on your machine, and opens each time the UV operates. In an area of heavy humidity, there is too much condensation in the tank to effectively drain it off - as you have discovered. I have one of these on my tank, and here in the popcorn dry desert, it works like a charm; of course, I haven't gotten more than, perhaps, a tablespoon of condensation out of my compressor in the last three years, with cycling at least two or three times a day.
 

Vicegrip

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Joined
Mar 9, 2007
Messages
1,187
Location
NoVA.
I installed one and removed it the same day after it started to **** out. As i was installing it I was thinking "Why am I wasting my time with this junk?" Only reason I endded up with one I was ordering something else and they were on sale and was lured in by the siren song of inexpensive. Pitched it and went and spent some good $ on a motorized ball valve that has a timer. It cycles as often as you set it to and the blow down is long enough to clear the tank and any gunk that is in the lines as well. That is a weakness of the short duration time systems. As they short burst they tend to not clear themselves and jam or leak after getting junk in them as they try and shut off with filth flowing through them. Now you have a good sized air leak and your compressor will cycle until you catch it. A good blow down system will have two things going for it. 1. A good solid cycle to get the water and clear the blow down system as well.
2. Not be bothered by gunk or crud.

I use C.H.U. timed pop off type tank drains on 9 25 HP 4 cyl Champion compressors at work. They, unlike the $10 HF unit they are US built commercial units and are well made but still have to be rebuilt once a year or so. Trust me a LOT of air can fit out of a 1.4 line if you let it even on a big *** car sized compressor.
 

TNToy

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Joined
Oct 11, 2006
Messages
1,385
Location
West Tennessee
I'm a fan of a 1/4" NPT elbow, an ~8" long pipe, and then a ball valve, personally.

When you don't have to fumble up under the center of the tank and unscrew a little valve that's always sticking, it's much easier to frequently do yourself. :)
 
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engnerdan

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Joined
Apr 18, 2007
Messages
316
Location
Minnesota
I'm a fan of a 1/4" NPT elbow, an ~8" long pipe, and then a ball valve, personally.

When you don't have to fumble up under the center of the tank and unscrew a little valve that's always sticking, it's much easier to frequently do yourself. :)

That’s what I have but I am aiming to get one step lazier then that and not have to walk over to the compressor to drain it.

Dan
 
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Phatsub

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May 10, 2007
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680
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Ridgecrest, CA
Nope. I'm greatfull for any power tool I can get my hands on. And I treat them like gold no matter how little they cost.
 

Roospike

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Joined
Jun 21, 2005
Messages
291
Location
Mid-West
Well then you would be tickled chit-less to own and operate some real tools with real power and real quality . :thumbup:

Not only is Harbor Freight stuff cheap junk there stuff even smells bad ..... real bad.

Ya ever notice how nasty the china junk smells !?!?
I guess it to match the quality.... $hit :lol_hitti
 

-lecroix-

Banned
Joined
Jan 28, 2006
Messages
946
Ever notice how much the Snap-On guy smiles when he's taking your money?:bounce:

Mr. Barnum said it best: "An *** for every seat and a sucker born every minute."
 

Roospike

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Joined
Jun 21, 2005
Messages
291
Location
Mid-West
we only have extreme ?

Its china junk or top of the line .

I dont buy the junk from the garbage stores and i dont normally buy the very top of the line.

I DO a lot of reading on forums and word of mouth to find the best quality at a good price , The funny thing is the cheap junk cost the most money in the long run vs the better quality items.
 

-lecroix-

Banned
Joined
Jan 28, 2006
Messages
946
Not if you know what is the good junk and what isn't. Tons of stuff at Harbor Freight that works perfectly fine with a little ingenuity and a few mods.

The Barnum comment can be applied to both camps ... the junk tools as well as the over priced tools. Just so you know I wasn't picking on you exclusively. :D
 

f575gtc

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Joined
Jul 14, 2013
Messages
654
This kit isn't designed to empty out your tank completely, its purpose is to quickly purge a burst of air that carries some water out with the air after every cycle or time the unloader triggers. Keeps the water in the tank down.
 

lostsole69

New member
Joined
Oct 27, 2015
Messages
1
I have one of these drain valves on my compressor it has been working great. My pump is in bad condition and it is putting oil in the air lines and once it did clog up the drain valve.
 

Vegaman_Dan

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Joined
Jun 1, 2012
Messages
2,453
Location
Pacific, WA
I installed the kit on my 60 gallon compressor and had the unfortunate incident of having the plastic line from the tank to the cutoff switch *MELT* and blow off. Too much of an angle and the hose wasn't up to the task. Thankfully it's simple 1/4" ID plastic line with release fittings on each end so I was able to plumb in a replacement piece- only to have it melt again. Okay! I get the point! I replaced the plastic line again, this time with 1/4" copper tubing from the tank to the T joint where the HF unit plumbs into. To cool off the air, I coiled the copper tubing about four or five turns in 4" loops before it got to the T. It may look silly, but the tubing is enough to burn your fingers at the start, but cool to the touch at the end, so I consider that a win in my book.

As for the age old HF bashing- leave it be. Use what works for you. For *MY* purposes, I have multiple $10 right angle grinders that have cutoff wheels, flap disks, etc, all on the welding cart. I also have a very nice $100 Craftsman that is by all means superior in build, quality, reliability, etc, that I use for grinding. It's also a PITA to keep changing from grinding wheel to cutoff, to flapdisk, etc. Having multiple of the smaller ones makes my work go by faster when I can grab the lighter duty tool for that quick job and keep the heavy unit for the big work. Again, use what works for you. For me, quick change with multiple was a better choice.
 

sberry

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Joined
Jun 18, 2005
Messages
35,747
Location
Brethren, Michigan
I guess on some level there is nothing wrong wit it but I am a fan of a ****** and a ball valve with a hose or old copper water line plumbed thru the wall. About every tenth thread of reading about a problem with an auto drain walk over and kick the valve open a blast.
I found enough old scrap and had to make one flare to make it all work.
 

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BAndritsch

Active member
Joined
May 8, 2008
Messages
27
Well now I know what to do with the HF auto drain I bought a couple of years ago and never installed because it just didn't instill confidence. I'm going with the long ****** and ball valve.
Bill
 

dogdog

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Joined
Nov 15, 2011
Messages
12,711
I recently picked up a couple of the air compressor auto drain kits from Harbor Freight. I am guessing they are just **** but I can’t get them to vent for more then 1/2 a second which is not nearly long enough to clear the moisture in my tank. Has anybody else had any luck or trouble with these auto drains?

Thanks
Dan

I have two kits, both broke within 2 years or so semi usage on my compressor.... The plastic tubing bursted after 3 or 4 use, replaced with 1/4 copper tubing costed a bundle on the connectors. Never really drain anything.... Recently the rubber disc finally gave up inside , I just took it out, couldn't be more happier.


I am no Snap-on Lover, or HF hater, Like I always said, not everything in HF is bad, but this one is just ****.
 
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