HF Chain Saw Sharpener

[IONH]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93213

Has anyone purchased one of these? If so, how is it in general and how difficult is it to use? How long does it take roughly to sharpen one chainsaw blade?

Yesterday's flyer had them with a coupon at $30 (regular $50).

I usually just buy a new chain for about $25 for my 18" Craftsman, but if it doesn't take as long as it does to drive to Sears and back (about 30 minutes) then it might make more sense to just sharpen the old chain(s).

 

[Skin]

i believe the general consensus is dont waste your time. Even with a good unit sharpening those are a bit of a pain in the neck so if you can locate a local sharpening service that does it for like ten bucks, which is what i have, you'd be better off. On the otherhand if you'd like an adventure, purchase away!

Its not so much as hard as it is time consuming.

 

[IONH]

Okay, great information. I find that when I cut down a tree (I've only cut down two), I either fight with one chain for the whole thing (by the end it's burning) or I use a second chain and rip through the rest. Was hoping to not spend $50/tree (two chains) if I could easily sharpen them.

What type of place might sharpen chains? Machine shop?

 

[metal1313]

you need better chains... i have not looking into sharpening them because i usually just replace them, but my knife guy will sharpen chains for 8bucks for a chain for up to 24in bar, and the price goes up, really its based on the number of teeth. same guy also sharpens my chisles, planes, and other fine bladed tools because he's kinda old school. he uses a commercial machine to get them good, then does them by hand to make them perfect.

 

[rodnok1]

I use a dremel attachment, it ***** but alot easier than by hand I can tell you. It takes me about 30 min at least to do a dull chain, a touch up maybe 20 minutes. The only real hard part is getting them even so the chain cuts straight. You can take it to any mower place and they should sharpen, ace hardware, local hardare stores too. If I had the extra money I'd get the HF one in a heart beat. I keep 3 chains at all times lying around, in varying states of sharp. One old one just for nasty work that might damage chain anyways. Makes sure your chain is getting enough oil and when it starts to cut slow change it out, save yourself the aggravation and it is ALOT SAFER to use a sharp chain. My dumb neighbor's saw was so dull he was using it as a hand saw last year...

 

[wendell]

Okay, great information. I find that when I cut down a tree (I've only cut down two), I either fight with one chain for the whole thing (by the end it's burning) or I use a second chain and rip through the rest. Was hoping to not spend $50/tree (two chains) if I could easily sharpen them.

What type of place might sharpen chains? Machine shop?

Shouldn't be burning and shouldn't go dull half way through a tree. You're going something wrong. I'd take the saw to a Husky/ Stihl dealer and let them figure out what the problem is before you get hurt.

Once the saw is up and running and you're operating it correctly, there isn't that much to sharpening a chain saw. Watch a guy do it a couple time and you'll get it.

Chaps and a helmet!

 

[Skin]

I use a dremel attachment, it ***** but alot easier than by hand I can tell you. It takes me about 30 min at least to do a dull chain, a touch up maybe 20 minutes. The only real hard part is getting them even so the chain cuts straight. You can take it to any mower place and they should sharpen, ace hardware, local hardare stores too. If I had the extra money I'd get the HF one in a heart beat. I keep 3 chains at all times lying around, in varying states of sharp. One old one just for nasty work that might damage chain anyways. Makes sure your chain is getting enough oil and when it starts to cut slow change it out, save yourself the aggravation and it is ALOT SAFER to use a sharp chain. My dumb neighbor's saw was so dull he was using it as a hand saw last year...

I'd be careful about just assuming a place will sharpen a chain. Many places dont do it anymore precisely for the reason i mentioned, its time consuming, and as already stated new chains simply arent that expensive.

If anyone will do it a place that specializes in sharpening will and their rates will be reasonable. I'd call a hardware store/mower repare shop before rather than just showing up but a specialized local sharpener shouldnt be a problem.

 

[classic70]

I bought one for my dad for christmas and sharpened over 20 chains with it. It takes some trial and error to get it set up perfect. make sure you get the chain tight and that you take the very least off of the chain to get it razor sharp and not to blue it. It does a great job if you have hit a rock or dulled the **** out of the chain. It takes probably 20 minutes for a chain in bad shape or as quick as 10 minutes for a chain not damaged. Also clean all the oil and dirt off of the chain because that can clog in the grinding wheel. I say buy it only one chain and it pays for itself.

 

[woody 73]

Hi,
For woodworking I use my chainsaw a lot I have looked at the other members posts and if you take some time learning how to sharpen a chain either by the good old hand held products (chain saw guides) or by the car battery types you should not have any problems.

 

[dellwas]

I'm 56 and have been using chainsaws since I was 16. I've used them all, dremels, bar clamp on angle sharpeners, electric machines, and hand filing. Nothing beats hand filing and I can do a chain in less than 10 minutes, but I've been at it a long time.

Most saw companies have howtos, here is one, under "How to sharpen chain":

http://www.oregonchain.com/pro/service/faq.htm

 

[Ign]

The HF chain sharpener ain't bad. My wife uses it a lot, she does most of the cutting here. Much cheaper than treating chains as one-use, which strikes me as ridiculous.

 

[DHS]

I do it by hand and that seems to work for me. I always make sure its oiling good and I only fill gas up half way so that the oil never runs out before the gas. You should be able to cut a lot of wood with one chain before it needs sharpened.

 

[sasquach]

Ive used it and it is fairly easy .It was aguy at work that owned it and the only thing he recommended when I got mine was to buy a better quality stone . **** for 29.00 you can't go wrong .

 

[wendell]

I'm 56 and have been using chainsaws since I was 16. I've used them all, dremels, bar clamp on angle sharpeners, electric machines, and hand filing. Nothing beats hand filing and I can do a chain in less than 10 minutes, but I've been at it a long time.

Most saw companies have howtos, here is one, under "How to sharpen chain":

http://www.oregonchain.com/pro/service/faq.htm

Im with this guy. A little skill, round file and flat file. About 10 minutes.

 

[finn]

The Northern Tool sharpener is a much better unit. I got mine for $110, but I've seen it for as low as $80.

The Farm Type stores all had them on sale in December also, for $110-120.

They are worth the difference in price compared to the HF piece.

Alan

 

[larry4406]

I have one and have used it to sharpen 10 to 15 chains that I inherited and were horribly dull. The unit did a very good job of putting a sharp edge on the chains and they cut like new. Limit the cut, and watch for bluing of the steel.

The indexing method is a little cheap when going from link to link, but if you study it and pay attention it works very well. The depth stop worked well as did the mitre function to change sides. The motor is quite and runs very smooth. I think I paid $29 for it last year.

We had professional tree work done, and the ******** wood chucks use a file and restore an edge quite fast with the chain still on the saw. They seemed fanatics and touched up their chains quite often. Me, I start an assault with a batch of sharp chains and keep going, and deal with the resharpening later if needed.

As an occasional user, I would buy it again. You can go thru 3 to 4 of these before you hit the cost of the other options.

 

[gabeancounter]

Learn to use a file to touch up. Every tank of gas take 5 min and touch up the chain. Make sure your oiler is working good. A tank of gas should almost empty the oil tank. Go to baileysonline.com you can get a much better chain for half the price. You should be able to get 15-20 tanks of gas on one good chain. Go to a chain saw shop and buy a little something and ask the guy to show you how to keep an edge on the chain. Good luck and be safe.

 

[IONH]

Shouldn't be burning and shouldn't go dull half way through a tree. You're going something wrong.

What do you think I doing wrong? I fill the oil up with "Craftsman" bar & chain oil every time I put in gas.

Isn't cutting as simple as placing the chain on the wood and let it pull itself through?

I only fell a couple of trees in my yard so far and they both went right where I wanted (thanks to YouTube and a couple other video websites).

 

[Mattlt]

What do you think I doing wrong? I fill the oil up with "Craftsman" bar & chain oil every time I put in gas.

Isn't cutting as simple as placing the chain on the wood and let it pull itself through?

I only fell a couple of trees in my yard so far and they both went right where I wanted (thanks to YouTube and a couple other video websites).

I'll take a wild guess that you're cutting in the dirt. Never let the chain touch the ground.

Some woods are just dirtier than others too. It doesn't sound like your trees are being dragged around in the dirt/gravel before being cut; that's another problem.

I can't believe there are so many people that just get new chains when they get dull! I usually touch mine up with a file every 1-2 tanks of gas, then bring them to my neighbor (old small engine guy - sharpens them for about $4) when the rakers need attention.

I can cut A LOT of wood with one chain....

P.S. If your chain is smoking maybe it's too tight? Check your manual as to how much "play" should be in the chain. They will _usually_ loosen up once you start cutting.

Bar oil really does nothing for the cutting action, it lubes the chain on the bar.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

All you need is a correct size file designed for chain saw chains, with a guide attached and a pair of leather gloves, much more functional, cheaper and quicker/easier than any of the fancy ways of doing it.

Charles

 

[Tim Cowan]

I have an old (30 YRS) motor sharpener and it sure beats the fire out of a file. I have a hard time keeping files that will keep cutting. Dirt and rocks are the biggest enemy to a good chain.....

 

[KEH]

To answer your original question, BIL has one and he says it is all right for the price. He is an experienced saw user, however.

I would learn to sharpen by hand first. The best job of hand filing is by taking the chain off and putting it in a vise, but I've sharpened many with the chain on the saw. I now use a dremel tool and like it.

Some chains have a groove cut in the teeth showing the proper angle. Sharpening at the right angle is important. Factory chains come sharpened for cutting across the grain. If someone were to rip the logs lengthwise to make boards, as in one of those chainsaw sawmills, the angle bould be different.

The chain has cutting teeth and drag teeth, whose function is merely to eject the sawdust. The drag teeth must be lower that the cutting teeth by 1/32 inch. If the drag teeth are too high, the chain will hang up in the cut. To check level, place a mill file on the chain at a flat section of the bar and see if you can see a gap between the drag teeth and the chain. File off the drag teeth it necessary. I just touch the drag teeth lightly with the dremel tool at each sharpening.

KEH

 

[jeepnut24]

My dad always sharpens his chains by hand....

 

[IONH]

I'll take a wild guess that you're cutting in the dirt. Never let the chain touch the ground.

Some woods are just dirtier than others too. It doesn't sound like your trees are being dragged around in the dirt/gravel before being cut; that's another problem.

I know not to let it hit the ground. I typically fell the tree, then prop it up on cinder blocks to cut into sections.

The trees are just trees, not sure how they would be either abnormally dirty or clean. There are quite a few trees, but not a crazy amount. Also, behind my lot (these trees are next to it) is a wet area for the street drainage with a lot of trees and old rotten wood/leaves/etc.

 

[comedyman809]

my brother in law has one, and he has many chainsaws for his business. and he loves it. always sharpening a blade for one of his 15 chainsaws!!!